Help with rich fuel!!! I give up
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Help with rich fuel!!! I give up
Does anyone know what is the best gas to put in if your having a rich fuel problem? Im almost done getting the crap gas that was int here out- I have replaced most items like the hoses and spark plugs with OEM- runs better but want a little extra help before taking to emmisions. Anyone know of anything I can do? If I need to replace O2 sensor, where would that be? Upon research I've read that there is 2, then people say only 1. I have a 95 2 WD Cherokee 4.0 6 CY. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
#2
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Does anyone know what is the best gas to put in if your having a rich fuel problem? Im almost done getting the crap gas that was int here out- I have replaced most items like the hoses and spark plugs with OEM- runs better but want a little extra help before taking to emmisions. Anyone know of anything I can do? If I need to replace O2 sensor, where would that be? Upon research I've read that there is 2, then people say only 1. I have a 95 2 WD Cherokee 4.0 6 CY. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
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Thank you for your response. I live in Arizona and I think it has been registered here since it was new. I am mechanically inclined so I am sure that I am able to do it myself. I have no codes, no lights, and it drives great. After replacing all the items I stated the exhaust smell is a lot less than what it was. I checked all around the cat converter and I seen nothing resembling an O2 sensor. I just heard somewhere that there is an additive or a particular grade of gas that you can put in that can help reduce the rich fuel issue. I was thinking that it may be a fuel pressure sensor- but I read that if it was that the car would run badly, but it doesn't.
#4
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Thank you for your response. I live in Arizona and I think it has been registered here since it was new. I am mechanically inclined so I am sure that I am able to do it myself. I have no codes, no lights, and it drives great. After replacing all the items I stated the exhaust smell is a lot less than what it was. I checked all around the cat converter and I seen nothing resembling an O2 sensor. I just heard somewhere that there is an additive or a particular grade of gas that you can put in that can help reduce the rich fuel issue. I was thinking that it may be a fuel pressure sensor- but I read that if it was that the car would run badly, but it doesn't.
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Year: 1999
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The O2 sensors are on the exhaust pipes, here are some pictures to help:
However, if the O2 sensors are ad, they would be throwing a CEL code.
However, if the O2 sensors are ad, they would be throwing a CEL code.
#7
::CF Administrator::
See, this is info we need. Do you happen to have the data sheets with all the numbers? Maybe your CEL bulb is out...Any and all data you can provide will net better results.
EDIT: Here is some reading you can do to better explain the issues you're having, and what you might want to look at next.
http://www.916smog.com/smog-help.html
Scroll down to where it says general background and read from there...
EDIT: Here is some reading you can do to better explain the issues you're having, and what you might want to look at next.
http://www.916smog.com/smog-help.html
Scroll down to where it says general background and read from there...
Last edited by Rogue4x4; 12-16-2013 at 01:45 PM.
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#8
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OK Thanks, heres the back story:
It sat for a while because I had a baby and didnt drive it- Took it to emmisions and pass everything but pressure test. Found out it had a crack in tank by nozzle. Had tank replaced. HC, Nitrogen and CO2 were very low in this testing. Took back with new tank, passed pressure test, but failed NOX. Reading before tank was .98 woth a 3.0 standard. Now is 5.146. HC passed but barely, went from .34 out of 1.6 standard to 1.36. CO2 went from 3.15 out of 20 standard to 8.27. So the NOX is the issue here. The exhaust did smell bad. I replaced the plugs with OEN Champion copper, new cap adn rotor and all hoses whether they needed it or not, some were cracked yes and I'm sure that was an issue. Im not sure if what I did may have fixed the issue.
It sat for a while because I had a baby and didnt drive it- Took it to emmisions and pass everything but pressure test. Found out it had a crack in tank by nozzle. Had tank replaced. HC, Nitrogen and CO2 were very low in this testing. Took back with new tank, passed pressure test, but failed NOX. Reading before tank was .98 woth a 3.0 standard. Now is 5.146. HC passed but barely, went from .34 out of 1.6 standard to 1.36. CO2 went from 3.15 out of 20 standard to 8.27. So the NOX is the issue here. The exhaust did smell bad. I replaced the plugs with OEN Champion copper, new cap adn rotor and all hoses whether they needed it or not, some were cracked yes and I'm sure that was an issue. Im not sure if what I did may have fixed the issue.
#11
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Just because they are newish, doesn't mean they cant be bad...when pulling them out, if not done carefully, they can be damaged...best to test them with an ohm meter before re-installing to be sure, don't know if this was done or not, but lets give it the benefit of the doubt and say they were good. So, if you were running rich before, new cap, rotor, and plugs may have solved the running rich issue, with the improved spark. High NOX readings, however are usually associated with running lean, have you checked any of your intake, like the air filter/intake for leaks or holes, or replaced the air filter? Anything replaced in the emissions (egr valve, catalytic convertor, etc?)
#12
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95 still have the MAP mounted up on the firewall? ;
There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich.
I think the rear 02 sensor only monitors the Cat, it's the front that matters. If you don't know the age/miles on yours you might want to change it. Especially with high HC. (they may fail rich). Since any MPG improvement will pay for it, not a bad idea.
You might have fixed it if you changed the MAP tube. That is a supper important deal there.
Also any little miss will peg the HC...Good luck!
There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich.
I think the rear 02 sensor only monitors the Cat, it's the front that matters. If you don't know the age/miles on yours you might want to change it. Especially with high HC. (they may fail rich). Since any MPG improvement will pay for it, not a bad idea.
You might have fixed it if you changed the MAP tube. That is a supper important deal there.
Also any little miss will peg the HC...Good luck!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-16-2013 at 10:46 PM. Reason: for it,
#13
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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First thing to do, is get over the "magic in a bottle" thinking. It's not helpful.
You have a solvable problem. It just needs systematic troubleshooting.
#14
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
95 still have the MAP mounted up on the firewall? ;
There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich.
I think the rear 02 sensor only monitors the Cat, it's the front that matters. If you don't know the age/miles on yours you might want to change it. Especially with high HC. (they may fail rich). Since any MPG improvement will pay for it not a bad idea.
You might have fixed it if you changed the MAP tube. That is a supper important deal there.
Also any little miss will peg the HC...Good luck!
There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich.
I think the rear 02 sensor only monitors the Cat, it's the front that matters. If you don't know the age/miles on yours you might want to change it. Especially with high HC. (they may fail rich). Since any MPG improvement will pay for it not a bad idea.
You might have fixed it if you changed the MAP tube. That is a supper important deal there.
Also any little miss will peg the HC...Good luck!
^^^^^^ very important!
Also your spark plugs, did you use Champion coppers and verified the gap was set to 0.035"?
#15
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Comon' SALID! I know the air is thinner up there....(I haven't tried the "OES's Though)
Anyway great point on double checking the gap. Monique, always smart to check what was in the box. Did you? It might have been dropped, or they might not be at .035 for some other reason.
In a bind with HC, stick a new CAT in it, and go directly to the smog shop, preferably across the street. As long as it has fresh fuel, (no harm with premium), An additive might be more likely to hurt than help, in my opinion.
Anyway great point on double checking the gap. Monique, always smart to check what was in the box. Did you? It might have been dropped, or they might not be at .035 for some other reason.
In a bind with HC, stick a new CAT in it, and go directly to the smog shop, preferably across the street. As long as it has fresh fuel, (no harm with premium), An additive might be more likely to hurt than help, in my opinion.
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