Appreciate the help guys! And I've heard that doing a flush for the transmission fluid at this point could actually be bad and that just getting a new filter would be good, is that true? It doesn't sound right to me.

 

Premium fuel with no ethanol is a benefit.

 

What? Is it knocking and belching white or blue smoke? Does it barely run? Are there bad noises in your drivetrain? You say you have an idle problem, and you want to do a rebuild?

 

Rofl. What? OEM stainless downpipe for $350? Wow.

This thread is full of fail imo. Op needs to slow down before he has to remortgage his house.

 

For all the money you're going to spend, you could just buy a much newer vehicle with a warranty or WAY less miles.

 

I agree, some of these guys must work for the dealership service department telling him everything he needs. dont get me wrong, im all about preventive maintenance, but damn!

 

Unscrew the drain plug, let it drain, then refill. If the fluid looks bad, repeat 1-2 more times at 100-200 mile intervals. Leave the "filter" (actually a screen) alone.
Use Dexron III fluid.

 

Not from experience mind you but I have also read that for high mileage transmissions that have some slipping that sometimes a fluid change can make slipping worse. Personally if I did not have any slipping, I would flush and change.

 

Putting something else in there, like ATF 4+ would do that...

 

I'm just keeping this all in mind as possibilities down the road. Like, I said, I only recently decided (basically yesterday) to go through with doing some maintenance to keep it rather than taking a chance on another used truck. I'd rather keep this thing going than buy a truck I have to pay off and be stuck with paying it off if something happens. I'm getting married this summer and don't need a truck payment hanging over my head. I'd rather hang on to this until my girlfriend and I get settled in. For now, all I plan on doing soon is a good tune up. At least the cap and rotor, plugs and wires, an oil change, and the transmission fluid. And anything else you guys would recommend for a good tune up at 240K. And I want to figure out what's causing the high rev in park.

What do you guys recommend in the way of oil?
And the transmission fluid has not been changed since I've owned it, I don't know when the last time it was, it's not slipping right now, should I just leave it alone then? Or at least change the screen or something?

And for the high rev, I'm thinking it could be something with the vacuum lines, but I'm not sure. It hasn't thrown a code, so I don't think it's my TPS. Maybe the IAC valve?
Whenever I first start it, the idle is completely normal, the second I put it in drive and give it some gas, it runs a little high. Whenever I get to where I'm going, I put it in park and it revs and holds at about 2,000 rpm, sometimes 1,500, sometimes it goes to 1,200 and quickly goes back to normal, but now more often, it sometimes doesn't even do it at all. Any ideas on what that could be? I don't want to keep throwing money at replacing parts to troubleshoot if it they won't help.

 

[QUOTE=Rueter;2756092]..What do you guys recommend in the way of oil?
This will start another oil war on here...

And the transmission fluid has not been changed since I've owned it, I don't know when the last time it was, it's not slipping right now, should I just leave it alone then? Or at least change the screen or something?
Drain and refill , drive it a few days and repeat this untill the fluid stays red. Leave the screen, its nothing but a screen to keep the big chuncks out. If really keen, you can drop the pan on the last drain and replace it. But most just leave it.

And for the high rev, I'm thinking it could be something with the vacuum lines, but I'm not sure. It hasn't thrown a code, so I don't think it's my TPS. Maybe the IAC valve?
YEs, all of these can cause idle issues. So, check for vacuum leaks, clean the IAC and throttle body (dont forget the underside of the valve) and test your TPS!

[QUOTE]

 

Thanks Roler, I'll look into it cleaning those and get the TPS tested!

 

And let us know how that goes!

 

Definitely! Work schedule BLOWS for trying to spend time on my Jeep man, won't be able to do much until Saturday, hopefully I can get it straightened that day! Thanks for the advice

 

I forgot to add with mandrel bends and thicker stainless than aftermarkets. I have some of OEMs laying around, from the outside they look really bad, but have plenty of life left. Wire brush the rust and they would look almost like new.

I would recommend waiting until there is some capital rather than taking out a loan. Perhaps purchase a second vehicle and some tools.

If seriously pursuing a rebuild, you might want to first look at quoted costs for labor and materials, quality of work, does or will the transmission require work, what are the other auto repair, parts and maintenance costs over a long term. Add the costs up to determine how much your going to be spending over a longer period for a completely rebuilt vehicle and not only for an engine rebuild.