bradleyheathhays

'96 XJ and my 4.0s engine harmonic balancer got wonky so I'll be replacing it ASAP. Haven't done this job before but the videos make it look straight forward. Problem is none of the vids went so far as to replace the front main seal which is just right there. So I'm wondering what's so hard about replacing it?

Any advice for replacing that seal?

Griffyorcono

bradleyheathhays

Yes I found both those vids after using the right search term...harmonic balancer. Was calling it crankshaft pulley at first.

Only thing is none of the vids goes so far as to show changing out the front main seal. What's the deal is that a tough job or something? I'd like to get mine done what I'm in there.

awg

double check in the FSM

but this Youtube shows the seal coming out without timing cover or anything else I can see


I didnt change mine when I did the HB...and it started leaking a bit soon after

I pulled the bumper that aided me doing the HB, and it may allow you to remove the seal with a slide hammer

(that is not the same seal, but the Torque convertor front seal in my AW4)

drill a tiny hole in the seal rim, and use a self-tapper on the slide hammer to pull the seal

tape the drill as you only want to go in a tiny bit

A bolt with the same thread as your crank bolt, but 2" longer can be used to help you get the HB back on

bluejeep2001

When you reinstall the balancer...silicone the keyway slot. They say you can weep oil thru it if you don't

bradleyheathhays

Ok thanks for all the info.

What kind of silicone should I use on the keyway? Is that a kind of grease?

warrpath4x4

pics of how far it has slid off the crank? its keyed so it shouldn't get "wonky" until its about to fall off.

dave1123

I'm assuming the rubber bond broke and that's how it got "wonky."

1/1200 Cherokee

Can be a nerve racking job. I did not replace the front main seal and have not had any leakage. Removing the balancer is the easy part but installing it with the installation tool is definitely something you want to pay attention to. I almost stripped the threading on the crankshaft when installing the balancer.

awg

That is why obtaining a crank bolt 2" longer with same thread and a few big washers makes it really easy, you just (carefully) pull the HB back on
I am lucky to have an excellent fastener supply shop nearby

lawsoncl

Use a longer bolt and a nut on the bolt to push instead of turning the bolt. That puts less stress on the crank threads, and you can put a wrench on the bolt head so the crank doesn't turn.

cruiser54

Just for fun, how about one of you guys post up the bolt, washer and nut size needed. Very helpful stuff.

lawsoncl

My memory is not that good, but I think 1/2"-20 for the threads. I usually just rummage in the bolts bin and grab one that matches what I took out.

warrpath4x4

ya it is 1/2-20, original bolt is 1.25" long

bradleyheathhays

Haven't been able to get a good camera angle yet but I'm almost sure the rubber has separated letting the outer wheel migrate forward.

And 1/2" was the size of the adapter they used with the installation tool so I'd say the bolt is 1/2". You'd know something like this would happen in cold weather. Guess it could be worse. Going to pick up all the parts and install tools today so wish me luck.