Hot no-start gone....now stalling
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hot no-start gone....now stalling
Have done the complete tune up kit plus replaced all sensors except coolant temp. & TPS. Gonna do the TPS this week. Coolant sensor was about 500ohms @ about 190 degrees. IAC,MAP,new front & rear vacumn pipes,o2 is new.
I have re-freshed all grounds twice & cleaned ALL electrical connections under the hood.
Have a new MOPAR CPS & was getting a weak voltage (.2) so adjusted the fitting & got it up to .8 & the ohm test shows 265. Haven't had the hot no-start in a few days now.
But I'm still getting ruff idle & crappy mileage. Real crappy. Like 10. Maybe.
So today I decide to adjust the kickdown cause she won't downshift if you wanted to pass somebody. Shifts fine both ways until you goose it. Then it's just a LONG acceleration.
I do the kickdown adjustment & I'm thinking OK I'm almost done with this project.
So I go for a drive & after about 3 or 4 miles I feel a buckle. About 45 mph. Go another 1/4 mile & get another buckle only it ain't a buckle it's dead. The tach goes bamm to zero but come right back up.I get up to 65 & whammo......dead as hell.
Coast to the shoulder & she starts right back up. Turn around to go home & go about a mile & bamm........shut off again.
This time she won't crank until I had sat there like 5 minutes. Fired right up & made it back home.
I waited 15 minutes & she started right up in the driveway. So that hot no-start seems ok but now this stalling out.
Never had this problem.
TPS going out? EGR? ICM? ECU? I'm back on suicide watch..........
I have re-freshed all grounds twice & cleaned ALL electrical connections under the hood.
Have a new MOPAR CPS & was getting a weak voltage (.2) so adjusted the fitting & got it up to .8 & the ohm test shows 265. Haven't had the hot no-start in a few days now.
But I'm still getting ruff idle & crappy mileage. Real crappy. Like 10. Maybe.
So today I decide to adjust the kickdown cause she won't downshift if you wanted to pass somebody. Shifts fine both ways until you goose it. Then it's just a LONG acceleration.
I do the kickdown adjustment & I'm thinking OK I'm almost done with this project.
So I go for a drive & after about 3 or 4 miles I feel a buckle. About 45 mph. Go another 1/4 mile & get another buckle only it ain't a buckle it's dead. The tach goes bamm to zero but come right back up.I get up to 65 & whammo......dead as hell.
Coast to the shoulder & she starts right back up. Turn around to go home & go about a mile & bamm........shut off again.
This time she won't crank until I had sat there like 5 minutes. Fired right up & made it back home.
I waited 15 minutes & she started right up in the driveway. So that hot no-start seems ok but now this stalling out.
Never had this problem.
TPS going out? EGR? ICM? ECU? I'm back on suicide watch..........
#2
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That cable isn't for kickdown. Your TPS handles that.
Ever do the coil/ICU contact refreshing?
TPS sounds like it might be bad.
How about a fuel pressure test?
Ever do the coil/ICU contact refreshing?
TPS sounds like it might be bad.
How about a fuel pressure test?
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm gonna do the TPS this week.
Fuel pressure is 39 unplugged & 31 plugged.
I thought that TV cable, push the button thing, conduiit pushed in, WOT release was for helping to get the throttle/shifting in order??? Along with the properly mounted TPS.......
#4
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
New coil....been mounted 2 weeks. I did the ICU refresh when I put the new coil in. (unless yer talkin the cam sensor)
I'm gonna do the TPS this week.
Fuel pressure is 39 unplugged & 31 plugged.
I thought that TV cable, push the button thing, conduiit pushed in, WOT release was for helping to get the throttle/shifting in order??? Along with the properly mounted TPS.......
I'm gonna do the TPS this week.
Fuel pressure is 39 unplugged & 31 plugged.
I thought that TV cable, push the button thing, conduiit pushed in, WOT release was for helping to get the throttle/shifting in order??? Along with the properly mounted TPS.......
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Possible major discovery. I may have found the rat I have been chasing for months. The hot no-start & lately stall in the middle of the road.
I took the coil off today & re-cleaned the ICM contacts AGAIN as well as the a few more ignition points AGAIN.
I got it all back together & hooked the battery back up......she fired right up & I was gonna let it run up to operating temp AGAIN & re-check the new MOPAR CPS AGAIN & I happened to leave it runnng & reached over & put my hand on the CPS connecter & bamm.......she died.
I wiggled it & she started up. So I got 2 pair of needle nose & moved the wires on both side of the connecter 1 at a time. On the receiver side nothing happened. On the CPS side the outside wire it started to bogg a little. When I moved the middle wire it was instant death.
I pushed the contacts IN FURTHER & she fired right off. While she was running I zipp tied the CPS cable to adjacent hose so the connecter couldn't move & wiggled the sensor wire all the way down to the mount on the bell housing. Nothing happened. Kept running just fine.
I go back to the CPS push in plug & moved the middle wire again with my needle nose this time pulling just a little on it. Dead right away. Pushed it in a little & she fired right up. Tugged the outside wire & she bogged a little. Pushed it back in towards the receiver & it caught right back up.
Grabbed the middle one again & just barely gave it a little slight pull.........dead on arrival.
So..........it seems all this time it 's not been the sensor it's the FRICKIN CONNECTION.
Upon further inspection the actual probes move quite a bit in & out. Very loose. And if they back of just a wee little......bamm.......yer dead in the middle of the road.
I had a guy tell me the other day when it stall or fail to re-start just un plug & re plug & if it cranks back up yer CPS is bad ......replace it. Maybe that's why it cranks back....you have re-set the connection again until it shakes & backs off again dies.
My question is........can I just by-pass this connection & straight wire it? insulate it good then shrink wrap this connection?
Wonder how many people just have bad connecters & change out good sensors?
anybody?
I took the coil off today & re-cleaned the ICM contacts AGAIN as well as the a few more ignition points AGAIN.
I got it all back together & hooked the battery back up......she fired right up & I was gonna let it run up to operating temp AGAIN & re-check the new MOPAR CPS AGAIN & I happened to leave it runnng & reached over & put my hand on the CPS connecter & bamm.......she died.
I wiggled it & she started up. So I got 2 pair of needle nose & moved the wires on both side of the connecter 1 at a time. On the receiver side nothing happened. On the CPS side the outside wire it started to bogg a little. When I moved the middle wire it was instant death.
I pushed the contacts IN FURTHER & she fired right off. While she was running I zipp tied the CPS cable to adjacent hose so the connecter couldn't move & wiggled the sensor wire all the way down to the mount on the bell housing. Nothing happened. Kept running just fine.
I go back to the CPS push in plug & moved the middle wire again with my needle nose this time pulling just a little on it. Dead right away. Pushed it in a little & she fired right up. Tugged the outside wire & she bogged a little. Pushed it back in towards the receiver & it caught right back up.
Grabbed the middle one again & just barely gave it a little slight pull.........dead on arrival.
So..........it seems all this time it 's not been the sensor it's the FRICKIN CONNECTION.
Upon further inspection the actual probes move quite a bit in & out. Very loose. And if they back of just a wee little......bamm.......yer dead in the middle of the road.
I had a guy tell me the other day when it stall or fail to re-start just un plug & re plug & if it cranks back up yer CPS is bad ......replace it. Maybe that's why it cranks back....you have re-set the connection again until it shakes & backs off again dies.
My question is........can I just by-pass this connection & straight wire it? insulate it good then shrink wrap this connection?
Wonder how many people just have bad connecters & change out good sensors?
anybody?
Last edited by randall L; 03-03-2013 at 07:05 PM.
#6
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Possible major discovery. I may have found the rat I have been chasing for months. The hot no-start & lately stall in the middle of the road.
I took the coil off today & re-cleaned the ICM contacts AGAIN as well as the a few more ignition points AGAIN.
I got it all back together & hooked the battery back up......she fired right up & I was gonna let it run up to operating temp AGAIN & re-check the new MOPAR CPS AGAIN & I happened to leave it runnng & reached over & put my hand on the CPS connecter & bamm.......she died.
I wiggled it & she started up. So I got 2 pair of needle nose & moved the wires on both side of the connecter 1 at a time. On the receiver side nothing happened. On the CPS side the outside wire it started to bogg a little. When I moved the middle wire it was instant death.
I pushed the contacts IN FURTHER & she fired right off. While she was running I zipp tied the CPS cable to adjacent hose so the connecter couldn't move & wiggled the sensor wire all the way down to the mount on the bell housing. Nothing happened. Kept running just fine.
I go back to the CPS push in plug & moved the middle wire again with my needle nose this time pulling just a little on it. Dead right away. Pushed it in a little & she fired right up. Tugged the outside wire & she bogged a little. Pushed it back in towards the receiver & it caught right back up.
Grabbed the middle one again & just barely gave it a little slight pull.........dead on arrival.
So..........it seems all this time it 's not been the sensor it's the FRICKIN CONNECTION.
Upon further inspection the actual probes move quite a bit in & out. Very loose. And if they back of just a wee little......bamm.......yer dead in the middle of the road.
I had a guy tell me the other day when it stall or fail to re-start just un plug & re plug & if it cranks back up yer CPS is bad ......replace it. Maybe that's why it cranks back....you have re-set the connection again until it shakes & backs off again dies.
My question is........can I just by-pass this connection & straight wire it? insulate it good then shrink wrap this connection?
Wonder how many people just have bad connecters & change out good sensors?
anybody?
I took the coil off today & re-cleaned the ICM contacts AGAIN as well as the a few more ignition points AGAIN.
I got it all back together & hooked the battery back up......she fired right up & I was gonna let it run up to operating temp AGAIN & re-check the new MOPAR CPS AGAIN & I happened to leave it runnng & reached over & put my hand on the CPS connecter & bamm.......she died.
I wiggled it & she started up. So I got 2 pair of needle nose & moved the wires on both side of the connecter 1 at a time. On the receiver side nothing happened. On the CPS side the outside wire it started to bogg a little. When I moved the middle wire it was instant death.
I pushed the contacts IN FURTHER & she fired right off. While she was running I zipp tied the CPS cable to adjacent hose so the connecter couldn't move & wiggled the sensor wire all the way down to the mount on the bell housing. Nothing happened. Kept running just fine.
I go back to the CPS push in plug & moved the middle wire again with my needle nose this time pulling just a little on it. Dead right away. Pushed it in a little & she fired right up. Tugged the outside wire & she bogged a little. Pushed it back in towards the receiver & it caught right back up.
Grabbed the middle one again & just barely gave it a little slight pull.........dead on arrival.
So..........it seems all this time it 's not been the sensor it's the FRICKIN CONNECTION.
Upon further inspection the actual probes move quite a bit in & out. Very loose. And if they back of just a wee little......bamm.......yer dead in the middle of the road.
I had a guy tell me the other day when it stall or fail to re-start just un plug & re plug & if it cranks back up yer CPS is bad ......replace it. Maybe that's why it cranks back....you have re-set the connection again until it shakes & backs off again dies.
My question is........can I just by-pass this connection & straight wire it? insulate it good then shrink wrap this connection?
Wonder how many people just have bad connecters & change out good sensors?
anybody?
#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yea I saw it....just now......lol.
I'll hardwire it instead of a new connector. If this NEW MOPAR CPS goes bad at least I'll know which end it is.....lol
off suicide watch for now............
I'll hardwire it instead of a new connector. If this NEW MOPAR CPS goes bad at least I'll know which end it is.....lol
off suicide watch for now............
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#8
Similar problems with unusual fix
Have done the complete tune up kit plus replaced all sensors except coolant temp. & TPS. Gonna do the TPS this week. Coolant sensor was about 500ohms @ about 190 degrees. IAC,MAP,new front & rear vacumn pipes,o2 is new.
I have re-freshed all grounds twice & cleaned ALL electrical connections under the hood.
Have a new MOPAR CPS & was getting a weak voltage (.2) so adjusted the fitting & got it up to .8 & the ohm test shows 265. Haven't had the hot no-start in a few days now.
But I'm still getting ruff idle & crappy mileage. Real crappy. Like 10. Maybe.
So today I decide to adjust the kickdown cause she won't downshift if you wanted to pass somebody. Shifts fine both ways until you goose it. Then it's just a LONG acceleration.
I do the kickdown adjustment & I'm thinking OK I'm almost done with this project.
So I go for a drive & after about 3 or 4 miles I feel a buckle. About 45 mph. Go another 1/4 mile & get another buckle only it ain't a buckle it's dead. The tach goes bamm to zero but come right back up.I get up to 65 & whammo......dead as hell.
Coast to the shoulder & she starts right back up. Turn around to go home & go about a mile & bamm........shut off again.
This time she won't crank until I had sat there like 5 minutes. Fired right up & made it back home.
I waited 15 minutes & she started right up in the driveway. So that hot no-start seems ok but now this stalling out.
Never had this problem.
TPS going out? EGR? ICM? ECU? I'm back on suicide watch..........
I have re-freshed all grounds twice & cleaned ALL electrical connections under the hood.
Have a new MOPAR CPS & was getting a weak voltage (.2) so adjusted the fitting & got it up to .8 & the ohm test shows 265. Haven't had the hot no-start in a few days now.
But I'm still getting ruff idle & crappy mileage. Real crappy. Like 10. Maybe.
So today I decide to adjust the kickdown cause she won't downshift if you wanted to pass somebody. Shifts fine both ways until you goose it. Then it's just a LONG acceleration.
I do the kickdown adjustment & I'm thinking OK I'm almost done with this project.
So I go for a drive & after about 3 or 4 miles I feel a buckle. About 45 mph. Go another 1/4 mile & get another buckle only it ain't a buckle it's dead. The tach goes bamm to zero but come right back up.I get up to 65 & whammo......dead as hell.
Coast to the shoulder & she starts right back up. Turn around to go home & go about a mile & bamm........shut off again.
This time she won't crank until I had sat there like 5 minutes. Fired right up & made it back home.
I waited 15 minutes & she started right up in the driveway. So that hot no-start seems ok but now this stalling out.
Never had this problem.
TPS going out? EGR? ICM? ECU? I'm back on suicide watch..........
#9
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a cherokee that suddenly had rough idle problems. 6 months and 3 mechanics later the local jeep dealership found the fix. Transmission bolts were loose causing movement that the tps could not pick up. Therefore, could not idle correctly. Worked out to about $500/ bolt to tighten but it fixed it.
#10
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I did the hardwire last night. Bullet connectors with triple heat shrink then drove her HARD for 30 miles on bumpy roads & then 10 more on a smooth 4 lane @70 mph.
NO STALL
Got back home & waited 15 minutes to check the hot no-start. She fires right up.
Maybe the rat is finally dead.
btw.....this was after about 2 cans of electronic contact cleaner used for multiple "cleanings" & "re-freshing" the grounds several times. After all of that it wasn't the contacts. Brand new MOPAR CPS & it was "loose & wobbly pins in the connector itself. Sensor good, bad connector.
So much for new MOPAR parts in this situation.
NO STALL
Got back home & waited 15 minutes to check the hot no-start. She fires right up.
Maybe the rat is finally dead.
btw.....this was after about 2 cans of electronic contact cleaner used for multiple "cleanings" & "re-freshing" the grounds several times. After all of that it wasn't the contacts. Brand new MOPAR CPS & it was "loose & wobbly pins in the connector itself. Sensor good, bad connector.
So much for new MOPAR parts in this situation.
#12
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I did the hardwire last night. Bullet connectors with triple heat shrink then drove her HARD for 30 miles on bumpy roads & then 10 more on a smooth 4 lane @70 mph.
NO STALL
Got back home & waited 15 minutes to check the hot no-start. She fires right up.
Maybe the rat is finally dead.
btw.....this was after about 2 cans of electronic contact cleaner used for multiple "cleanings" & "re-freshing" the grounds several times. After all of that it wasn't the contacts. Brand new MOPAR CPS & it was "loose & wobbly pins in the connector itself. Sensor good, bad connector.
So much for new MOPAR parts in this situation.
NO STALL
Got back home & waited 15 minutes to check the hot no-start. She fires right up.
Maybe the rat is finally dead.
btw.....this was after about 2 cans of electronic contact cleaner used for multiple "cleanings" & "re-freshing" the grounds several times. After all of that it wasn't the contacts. Brand new MOPAR CPS & it was "loose & wobbly pins in the connector itself. Sensor good, bad connector.
So much for new MOPAR parts in this situation.
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I thought about it. Actually tried but the silicone rubber insulator stuff was so loose I wooda had to super glue it.
So I says "screw it"........went whacked off & bullet shrinked & at least if it goes bad I know which end the rat is chewing........
After all these months of chasing.......I decided to hell with the cheese, I just wanted outta the trap.
So I says "screw it"........went whacked off & bullet shrinked & at least if it goes bad I know which end the rat is chewing........
After all these months of chasing.......I decided to hell with the cheese, I just wanted outta the trap.
#14
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I thought about it. Actually tried but the silicone rubber insulator stuff was so loose I wooda had to super glue it.
So I says "screw it"........went whacked off & bullet shrinked & at least if it goes bad I know which end the rat is chewing........
After all these months of chasing.......I decided to hell with the cheese, I just wanted outta the trap.
So I says "screw it"........went whacked off & bullet shrinked & at least if it goes bad I know which end the rat is chewing........
After all these months of chasing.......I decided to hell with the cheese, I just wanted outta the trap.
Look what I found when the fuel pump quit working in my wife's XJ yesterday. Ground wire from the pump to the plate.
#15
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Dang Cruiser, in the tank? I guess one could hope the vapor in the tank is too rich to ignite, but still...dang!
Randal....I'm confused. An 89 only has two wires to the CPS. Guess when you said "middle wire" you meant middle position (since the two go through a 3 wire plug)? Glad yo got it in any case, thanks for your input!
Randal....I'm confused. An 89 only has two wires to the CPS. Guess when you said "middle wire" you meant middle position (since the two go through a 3 wire plug)? Glad yo got it in any case, thanks for your input!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 03-04-2013 at 08:24 PM.