how can I find out what kindof axle I have.
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
how can I find out what kindof axle I have.
Ok so I have a 1999 jeep cherokee limited and I'm trying to find out whether I have a Dana 35 or a Chrysler one? Help?
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Year: 99
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haha. the front is a d30 the rear depends on abs. w/ abs its the d35 c clip, w/o abs its a chrysler 8.25. dude, wiki 1999 jeep cherokee xj. its got a really good, basic breakdown of all the specs!
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Year: 1996
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It's a cherokee, you have the wrong vehicle if you are looking for acceleration lol. The 8.25 is preferred all around I think. They both work just fine on the road of course.
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If its got a lip on the bottom its a 8.25, if not its probably a 35. Telling round from oval on a dirty oily and rusty part while under a vehicle is not as easy as most members on here allude to.
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the 35 is notorious (and there is bedate about this) for being a weaker axle. the 8.25 isnt the most durable either, but thats what i have and you wont here me complain! things like acceleration are only effected by gearing, not the axles qualities. as stated before, the aw4 tranny has a 3.55 vs. the ax15 3.07. if your gonna go bigger w/ the tires and start doing some serious offroading id want to consider (not) doing this on a d35. i know there will be someone who says they have put theirs thru hell and back w/o issues, but then there is the complete opposite of that too! so idk. axle swaps can be expensive, but so is trying to beef up an axle. if you want/can, try getting a d44 or d60? these are the top dog for rugged (also debateable)
now, acceleration... there are things you can do to free up existing HP. i allways go back to this: AIR-FUEL-SPARK. all three of these need to be in good order and more importantly, they need to be relative to each other! what i mean is that you dont need a massive exhaust if there isnt an increase in exhaust gas volume, and you dont need some crazy ignition set up if you dont have the demand for all the extra signal. so make sure all of your ignition system- stuff like:
-cap/rotor
-plugs/wires
-TPS, IAC valve, and o2 sensors (the o2's are in exhaust, but whatev)
are all good to go. change all fluids.. there is this too- unglug the ac compressor and put on a DIY aftermarker intake (w/ TB spacer if ya want..) that will help.
now, acceleration... there are things you can do to free up existing HP. i allways go back to this: AIR-FUEL-SPARK. all three of these need to be in good order and more importantly, they need to be relative to each other! what i mean is that you dont need a massive exhaust if there isnt an increase in exhaust gas volume, and you dont need some crazy ignition set up if you dont have the demand for all the extra signal. so make sure all of your ignition system- stuff like:
-cap/rotor
-plugs/wires
-TPS, IAC valve, and o2 sensors (the o2's are in exhaust, but whatev)
are all good to go. change all fluids.. there is this too- unglug the ac compressor and put on a DIY aftermarker intake (w/ TB spacer if ya want..) that will help.
#15