How to Change Alternator
#1
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Because my Gen light came on, I plan to replace my original 1996 alternator. What is the best method.
Questions:
1. Should I remove the battery and battery tray to replace the alternator? Looks like that would make it easier to get at.
2. Should I drive the car up on ramps to raise the front? It is bone stock; no lift.
3. Any other suggestions?
I plan to remove the electric fan to make getting at the belt tension adjustment easier.
Overall, 17.5 years of service is more than I expected from the alternator, so I am thinking on buying a new one because the Gen light is on and the dash meter does show a lower voltage. I have been trickle charging the battery. I do plan to have my existing alternator checked, but will likely move forward with the replacement, regardless of the test outcome. I'll have the new one tested at the store, too.
thoughts?
thanks,
Peter
Questions:
1. Should I remove the battery and battery tray to replace the alternator? Looks like that would make it easier to get at.
2. Should I drive the car up on ramps to raise the front? It is bone stock; no lift.
3. Any other suggestions?
I plan to remove the electric fan to make getting at the belt tension adjustment easier.
Overall, 17.5 years of service is more than I expected from the alternator, so I am thinking on buying a new one because the Gen light is on and the dash meter does show a lower voltage. I have been trickle charging the battery. I do plan to have my existing alternator checked, but will likely move forward with the replacement, regardless of the test outcome. I'll have the new one tested at the store, too.
thoughts?
thanks,
Peter
#2
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Remove it from the bottom.
Don't remove the electric fan. Removing the air/intake box makes loosening the belt tension simple.
I remove the mechanical fan, loosen belt tension, remove the bolts, remove the wires and bring it out the bottom.
Then put it back together. Done.
Don't remove the electric fan. Removing the air/intake box makes loosening the belt tension simple.
I remove the mechanical fan, loosen belt tension, remove the bolts, remove the wires and bring it out the bottom.
Then put it back together. Done.
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Remove it from the bottom.
Don't remove the electric fan. Removing the air/intake box makes loosening the belt tension simple.
I remove the mechanical fan, loosen belt tension, remove the bolts, remove the wires and bring it out the bottom.
Then put it back together. Done.
Don't remove the electric fan. Removing the air/intake box makes loosening the belt tension simple.
I remove the mechanical fan, loosen belt tension, remove the bolts, remove the wires and bring it out the bottom.
Then put it back together. Done.
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#7
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I'm not 100% sure when they changed to the new style but yes, the tensioner is different on early styles. The adjuster bolt is under the power steering pump.
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on the 2000, the two contact points consist of one plug and a bolted on ground. easy to remove
the top bolt will need to be removed using a box end wrench on the front and a socket wrench with a long extender on the back
the bottom bolt is pretty easy
i took my alt out a few weeks ago and apparently someone put a spacer in the hole where the top bolt goes in, in this case a hammer will prove useful to knock the alt out. a flathead screwdriver can be used to pry the spacer out towards the rear of the engine.
i also removed my battery tray some years ago when i had to replace the battery so the alt can actually be taken out from the top in this condition, but otherwise some thick hoses will block the way so you'll probably have to drop it from the bottom
also a stock cherokee can yield alot of work without a lift. unless you're a large guy you should be able to crawl underneath.
ive changed my oil and even changed an oil pump without lifting it up, or even without removing the sway bar for that matter. thats the thing I love about cherokees.
the top bolt will need to be removed using a box end wrench on the front and a socket wrench with a long extender on the back
the bottom bolt is pretty easy
i took my alt out a few weeks ago and apparently someone put a spacer in the hole where the top bolt goes in, in this case a hammer will prove useful to knock the alt out. a flathead screwdriver can be used to pry the spacer out towards the rear of the engine.
i also removed my battery tray some years ago when i had to replace the battery so the alt can actually be taken out from the top in this condition, but otherwise some thick hoses will block the way so you'll probably have to drop it from the bottom
also a stock cherokee can yield alot of work without a lift. unless you're a large guy you should be able to crawl underneath.
ive changed my oil and even changed an oil pump without lifting it up, or even without removing the sway bar for that matter. thats the thing I love about cherokees.
Last edited by nakosd; 10-08-2013 at 10:19 PM.
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Well, it's out. Took 1.25 hours; I guess I am getting older and slower.
In fact the tensioner is different on the 96 compared to others, as the tensioner bolts are not near the air box. Removing the electric fan is easy - one plug and two bolts right at the top (10mm). The center bolt on the tensioner and the adjuster bolt are 15mm.
Did pull off the mechanical fan. Probably just as well, as I think the fan's fluid drive does not work after 17.5 years of service. Used a ratcheting box (13mm) to loosen the four nuts on the pulley, using a 13mm box end to hold the pulley from rotating for the first three, and a screwdriver between the pulley and the studs for the last. Took me 20 minutes to get that technique down.
There were five bolts for the electrical connector. For the two smallest, a 9/32" socket from a 1/4" drive set worked. The three larger ones were all 11mm. Another 20 minutes. Man am I getting old!
The upper nut and bolt both took 15mm, as did the lower bolt.
After just a little prying, the unit came out the bottom. There was no need to jack up the car; it's a Jeep.
thanks for the advice,
Peter
In fact the tensioner is different on the 96 compared to others, as the tensioner bolts are not near the air box. Removing the electric fan is easy - one plug and two bolts right at the top (10mm). The center bolt on the tensioner and the adjuster bolt are 15mm.
Did pull off the mechanical fan. Probably just as well, as I think the fan's fluid drive does not work after 17.5 years of service. Used a ratcheting box (13mm) to loosen the four nuts on the pulley, using a 13mm box end to hold the pulley from rotating for the first three, and a screwdriver between the pulley and the studs for the last. Took me 20 minutes to get that technique down.
There were five bolts for the electrical connector. For the two smallest, a 9/32" socket from a 1/4" drive set worked. The three larger ones were all 11mm. Another 20 minutes. Man am I getting old!
The upper nut and bolt both took 15mm, as did the lower bolt.
After just a little prying, the unit came out the bottom. There was no need to jack up the car; it's a Jeep.
thanks for the advice,
Peter
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My local Advance Auto Parts did sell me a new, made in China alternator. Works fine.
The shopping experience was just OK. The alternator test rig at the store did not show either the old or new unit as working. Ultimately, all that test process did was waste time and subject the alternator to possible damage.
The dash gauge on the Jeep seemed very accurate throughout the process, as did the Gen light. The low voltage shown by the gauge was correct, and the gauge was sensitive enough to show that with the car running, no more voltage was available than with the key on, but not running.
Another point that was confusing was the exact route to install and extract the unit, once loose. Working from underneath the Jeep, the best path is from the front, as directly out the bottom is more difficult, if possible.
The shopping experience was just OK. The alternator test rig at the store did not show either the old or new unit as working. Ultimately, all that test process did was waste time and subject the alternator to possible damage.
The dash gauge on the Jeep seemed very accurate throughout the process, as did the Gen light. The low voltage shown by the gauge was correct, and the gauge was sensitive enough to show that with the car running, no more voltage was available than with the key on, but not running.
Another point that was confusing was the exact route to install and extract the unit, once loose. Working from underneath the Jeep, the best path is from the front, as directly out the bottom is more difficult, if possible.
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