EuroJeep

Hi,

Back to work on the Wagoneer.
As visible on the picture, it is nose diving.
Btw I have normal 215/75R15 brand new tires.



I didn't find stock measurements for a 1987 XJ. So I don't know if the front is too low or the back too high (my opinion)
Measures are from ground to the lower part of the car.

It appears to me that the back is lifted, right ?

I am considering adding a 5cm (1,96 inches) polyurethane spacer in the front.
But then the front will be a bit higher ..... Arghhhhhhhh !!!!

The other solution could (should) be to lower the back.
AND HERE IS MY QUESTION

How has it been lifted ? Everything seems stock in the back.
No spacer on the feaf springs.
Normal shackle (as far as I can say, from hole to hole it is about 7,7cm (3,03 inches)



Maybe on a 87 the shackle was smaller and it has been replaced by a later model ?.
Maybe the leafs are new at the back
Maybe the front is lower than normal
Maybe the gaz shock absorbers are not the right model
Maybe the shocks are dead and I don't know it and it has an impact
Maybe it is normal ...

I am lost

Thanks for your advises.

Here are pictures of the leafs and shackles

jordan96xj

The rear leaf springs were replaced and it is riding high. It will settle some, but will continue to be high in the rear. These were probably Dorman or Crown leaf springs, and they add about 1" over stock springs (the emulate the up-country package).

By adding a 1" spacer up front, and leaving the stock rubber isolators in place (they add about 1/4") it will be about perfect. You can run 235/75r15 or 30x9.5r15 and it will look great.

EuroJeep

Thanks Jordan,

So the leafs are not the originals. Ok, I didn't know.

So I have to play with the front.
Does the car have to be perfectly straight ? then I need to add 1,2"
Or is it supposed to be a bit nose diving ? then maybe 1" is enough ?

caged

it is also possible that when they tightened the U bolts, the jeep was on a lift, that will make the jeep sit higher than if you tightened them with all the weight on the ground.

i would throw in a 1 inch spacer in the front, and maybe double up on the isolators if needed. put the spacer in first, then the isolator, so the spring can rest on that.
if you double up on the isolators, put the spacer in between them.

EuroJeep

It is getting clearer...

The U bolts should be tightened when the car is on the ground ? Right ? or is it to minimize the issue ?
I'll tell that to the mecanic. I don't know how it has been done.

EZEARL

Not just the u-bolts but also the leaf spring bolts at each end and the upper shackle bolts (if they was loosened for some reason) should left loose and then torqued to spec after the vehicle is on the ground. Wouldn't hurt to move the vehicle a bit before tightening to seat everything. Then check the torque again after ~100 miles of driving.

dave1123

I believe it's designed to be 1 to 1.5" higher in the rear to compensate for average loaded weight (i.e., 4 passengers). I know my 2000 WJ is and that's what a dealer service manager told me.

EuroJeep

1,5" is what I have on the first picture of the post...
And it really doesn't look normal.

But it is an interesting discussion

Shall I compensate with 1" and be a bit nose diving but flat when in the car.
OR
Fully compensate in static state but be too low on the back when driving with kids behind me..

I need to order the spacer.
But can't take a decision...

EuroJeep

I have in stock a 2" spacer (5cm).
Will probably be too much.

jordan96xj

You will have to make the final call yourself.

To my eyes, those look like Dorman replacement leaf springs (the same ones I used). When I first installed them, I had about the exact same angle (rake) as shown in your picture from the side. I gave it a couple weeks to settle down, and realized that wouldn't be enough. I added a 1" spacer to the front suspension and did not put the rubber isolators back in place. #1 It still was not quite enough height and #2 I started getting a slight rumbling vibration in my steering wheel. A couple weeks later I did the job again and put the rubber isolators back in place (they are 1/4 - 1/2" tall). With that combination and about 90 days / 500 miles of additional settling time for the rear springs, the vehicle sat perfectly. So in the end I was very happy. Just trying to pass along what worked to save you the trouble of having to do things multiple times.

If you want to adjust the front height as you go, you can purchase an adjustable coil spring spacer system (ACOS is the product, like a spacer, but can be adjusted while on the vehicle). These are popular, but are much more expensive then a chunk of poly rubber/plastic.

EZEARL

The Up Country mod would consist of Dorman or Crown leaf springs and new coils up front (different from the OEM ones) plus a 3/4" spacer added. This will give the vehicle the stance of an XJ with an OEM suspension but with ~2" of lift. If your leaf springs are one of the brands I mentioned and your coils are OEM then I'd do what Jordan suggested.
"By adding a 1" spacer up front, and leaving the stock rubber isolators in place (they add about 1/4") it will be about perfect. You can run 235/75r15 or 30x9.5r15 and it will look great."

EZEARL

I've got Crowns in the back and Moog CC782's with 3/4" spacers w/o the isolators in the front. Here's how it sits after 2yrs.

EuroJeep

To conclude :

- It is normal to be a bit lower in the front.

- I will order a 1" spacer this afternoon.
- I'll ask the guy who will install them to also (if necessary) lower a bit the back by re-tightening the rear once on the ground.

I thank you for your help !

EZEARL

Hope it works for you. If you would happen to end up a bit low in the back IRO sells a shackle that gives the option of OEM or +3/4". I've not had to use the 3/4" position yet.

jordan96xj

Mine sat slightly higher in the rear with Dorman springs, and a 1" spacer + Isolator in the front. BUT - I carry about 100lbs of recovery, parts, and tools in the cargo area at all times. Once that stuff was put back in the vehicle, it sat about perfectly level. Later, I added adjustable air shocks to the rear so that I can adjust the rear height when I take on heavier loads (passengers, camping gear, trailer tongue weight, etc). They were cheap, have been durable, and have performed great (Gabriel Hijackers).