Getting ready to try these this weekend. Thanks for the post. I am in Wisconsin and the bolts are so rusted almost not recognizable. Should be tons of fun

 

When I did mine I was not aware that the flag nuts to fix the problem existed.
I had read the about the solution of fishing bolts through with mechanics wire and nutting from the bottom though.
Sometimes I wonder if it is even worth the trouble to try and not snap the bolts. LOL.
Just bust the suckers, knock 'em out, use the flag nuts, and call it a day. MLOL.

 

I just did this on my '98. I ended up using flag nuts. The passenger side one went in super easy. I could not get the driver side one in easily and ended up cutting off a corner of the bracket so it would slide in. Well made and I like that if some happens in the future, I can put a new nutsert in since I ended up getting a nutsert tool to redo the nuts for the bump stops since those twisted off too. In the end, I probably could have just put nutserts into the holes, but the flag nuts were pretty easy.

 

Those do look better then the other ones I see out there.

 

One benefit of annual rustproofing sprays (Krown, Fluid film, etc.) is that it acts as a penetrating oil as well. I'm just about to change the rear shocks on my '89. They should be in on Monday but yesterday I decided to see what I might be in for. The top bolts and bottom nuts back off easily.

 

I did mine yesterday, front and rear shocks with zero issues. I used a little penetrating oil, but I don't feel it was needed.. The first bolt on the rear scared me for a second though, I heard a slight "cracking" sound that made me think the tack weld was breaking free, but I just went slow and they all came out fine!

Now I am just waiting on my shackles and front coils to arrive on Monday, then I am terrified of the 4 bolts on the rear for the leaf springs.. hah, since those actually need cutting if they break. :/

 

Just replaced my shocks today, and all of the bolts came out without breaking. Thanks for the tips!

 

How to you tell if the coils and leaf springs need to be replaced?

 

Told you so mate
All these anticipated worries and concerns...if you'd go with that, you'll never pick up a wrench again.

Cross problematic bridges when you get there, until then, they are just bridges you can cross.

 

I'm now running into this predicament. I wish I would have just snapped the bolts off. The bolts are loose but are spinning around (with the nutserts). Any advice on how to yank those?
Also -- those guys who "fished" new bolts through using wire, how did you keep those bolts from spinning when tightening the nuts?

 

Lol! Start praying to the Jeep gods. Mine all broke off. Same crap as you rust city. I drilled down through the interior floor approximately above each bolt. This way was able to swap bolts much more easily. Put metal plates with rivets and silicon to reseal. Now when I do them next just pop em out and then reseal.

 

HAH! That is was I was fixin on doing. KISS. No need to buy a $15-30 nut plate kit when I cant even get the bolts off. This is tough doing any of this in a 10x20 storage unit while all of my tools are 1000 miles away in my workshop. This XJ essentially has zero rust but some of these fasteners are really tight. I broke the forward bolt that was holding the destroyed bump stop (identical to what happened with my rust-belt '00). I'm going to stop at Hobo Fright today (15% off coupon for everyone this weekend!) and buy a punch set. I swear to God I'll have a 10,000 piece tool set before I leave Denver in the fall.

 

When I replaced my floor, my shock bolts broke too. Thankfully the PO had already knocked out the weld nuts. I planned on putting in 1 inch holes with rubber plugs in the new floor, for access to the bolt heads. Then I discovered the flag nuts. Definitely the best option IMO. If they break next time, just get another set.

 

Looks like the "thru the floor mod" has been discussed here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...-bolts-249900/

 

I got lucky on this one. I realized that the original nutserts had already been punch out and those were just bolts spinning around (that were dropped in from the top). I applied lateral pressure to the shock so it would hold the bolt tight enough. I used my fingers to tighten nut and then loosen then tighten, etc. until the nuts cleaned the threads and unscrewed on their own. After pulling the shock down I could clearly see that the bolts have been replaced and a PO had also installed star-style lock washers with the dropped-in bolts. When I installed the shock I did the same thing - apply lateral pressure to the shock which holds the bolt tight enough for me to tighten the nut by hand. By the time the nut was finger-tight, the lock washer was grabbing enough for me to use a 3/8 ratchet and torque it to German spec (Gutentite).