How to eliminate noise in Cherokee to make quiet ride
#46
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 276
Likes: 6
From: NJ/NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Over here, NJ, its about $18 a roll of 6" by 25'. It works!
#47
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 299
Likes: 12
From: Whittier, Ca
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Here is a pic of the label of the automotive insulation. $20 a roll at Pep-Boys. It is a big roll of what looks like 1/4" thick felt with a thin layer of aluminum foil on one side. I'm going to cover my door panels with this stuff this week. I plan to put a layer above my headliner board in a couple weeks.
#49
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
I installed Fat Mat that i purchased off ebay. Works well and was cheaper then Dynomat. i plan on doing more of the XJ soon with the same stuff. hope this helps.
#50
I'm actually undergoing a similar project. I hate road noise and my jeep already has a 3" lift from the previous owner. Last weekend I gutted it out. I purchased 50sq ft of this dynamat type stuff off of eBay for $80 shipped. I had to order more and have it laying in the garage. I also started experimenting with sound proofing and found something you might all find interesting. Bought it from Menards. Frost King aluminum backed rolled foam HVAC insulation. Costs $15 for about a 12 foot roll. I'm on my 3rd roll of that right now.
Dropping a socket head on the bare floor pan = super loud clank with vibrations
Dropping a socket head on the dynamat type stuff = loud thud w/o any ringing
Dropping a socket head on the frost king covered dynamat stuff = moderate to light thunk depending on drop location
I also purchased the dense foam yoga mats (were on sale for $4.99 each so i figured why not). Did a sound test drop on that as well... quiet thunk.
I plan on gluing the yoga mat pieces to the inside of the plastic trim pieces such as door panels, rear inside panels, center column, portions of removable dash.
Ill take photos of where im at in the project and post them on this thread. I found that by wrapping that frost king foam on top of the dynamat stuff made a huge difference. If I can remove the dash with success (kinda scared) then It should help me tremendously get to the firewall behind the blower area.
Although I am still not finished...by the time I actually am finished, I hope to have a decently quiet XJ.
Dropping a socket head on the bare floor pan = super loud clank with vibrations
Dropping a socket head on the dynamat type stuff = loud thud w/o any ringing
Dropping a socket head on the frost king covered dynamat stuff = moderate to light thunk depending on drop location
I also purchased the dense foam yoga mats (were on sale for $4.99 each so i figured why not). Did a sound test drop on that as well... quiet thunk.
I plan on gluing the yoga mat pieces to the inside of the plastic trim pieces such as door panels, rear inside panels, center column, portions of removable dash.
Ill take photos of where im at in the project and post them on this thread. I found that by wrapping that frost king foam on top of the dynamat stuff made a huge difference. If I can remove the dash with success (kinda scared) then It should help me tremendously get to the firewall behind the blower area.
Although I am still not finished...by the time I actually am finished, I hope to have a decently quiet XJ.
#51
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 247
Likes: 2
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you're running a factory roof rack and it's in the most forward position it will make a lot of wind noise, just move it back to the middle. I'm following your thread because I too have hearing loss (war sucks) and would like for my wife not to have to yell and repeat herself constantly. Thanks for your service.
#52
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: NW Oregon
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Outout I6
I know im jumping in a little late on the peel and stick stuff... I install windows and doors for a living and use very similar products on a daily basis and that stuff will not stick to anything for any period of time unless it is a very very clean surface then you have to blast it hard with a heat gun not too much tho because you can blast a hole in it but if its done right that stuff won't ever come off trust me I have tried to take it off it won't
#53
bump for an update...I'm installing FATMAT this weekend.
OP: what have you done since Feb to help with the sound? I'm at 76db at 75mph. Anybody with Dynamat or similar know what their decibels are at highway speed?
OP: what have you done since Feb to help with the sound? I'm at 76db at 75mph. Anybody with Dynamat or similar know what their decibels are at highway speed?
#54
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 1
From: Southern Oregon
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by USMCgunrock
This really got me very curious and did it on the fly on my way home from work. I know this might not be that accurate but i downloaded a decibel meter app and wanted to see how it is in my truck. I mean, i know my truck is actually not bad when it comes to noise levels..anywho..my truck on the highway doing 60mph i was getting about 55-57dB...at idle it was about 43.7db...not bad
#56
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 6
From: Oshkosh, WI.
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When these XJ left the factory, they where quiet inside. All new parts, every thing was tight, had road tires on, etc. etc. Now to try to achieve that in a 11 year old car with 145k on it, would be quit a task. And pretty much a off frame restoration (so to speak) and expansive. But for sound damping, I would use a spray on material. Easier to apply and can get into areas that are hard to reach. Under coating would also help. Replace all your door and window seals. Along with going back to road tires. That would eliminate enough noise for the rest of the sounds, rattles and squeaks of loose interior trim and dash parts. To further drive you nuts.
#57
Originally Posted by 91 limited owner
When these XJ left the factory, they where quiet inside. All new parts, every thing was tight, had road tires on, etc. etc. Now to try to achieve that in a 11 year old car with 145k on it, would be quit a task. And pretty much a off frame restoration (so to speak) and expansive. But for sound damping, I would use a spray on material. Easier to apply and can get into areas that are hard to reach. Under coating would also help. Replace all your door and window seals. Along with going back to road tires. That would eliminate enough noise for the rest of the sounds, rattles and squeaks of loose interior trim and dash parts. To further drive you nuts.
#58
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,118
Likes: 6
From: Oshkosh, WI.
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The loose interior and dash panels are the worst to me. Ive been trying to figure out all mine for a long long time. Not to steal the thread. But dies anyone have any experience with cut fenders in the front increasing interior noise by letting air in thru the door? I'm trying to fix this now.
#59
Originally Posted by 91 limited owner
It usually works best if you only trim about an inch off the fenders (which is pretty much just the flair mounting area) Than modify the plastic inner fender protection piece to fit. (And some silicone.) Other wise it just creates a giant air scoop. As you now know. New door seals might help?
#60
Guys normally stuff those pool toys called Water Noodles in to the top and back side of the fenderwells to decrease the noise and it helps keep the mud out too. Looks kinda silly if you don't paint them black but apparently it is quite popular to do.