When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So I figure while the XJ is buried in the back of my four-car garage, why not “do it right”? I’ve been in this conundrum before with my B4 Passat. I’ve been watching many YT vids of guys doing overhauls in-situ and it doesn’t seem like it’s really that hard. Now, I’m not planning on replacing bearings, etc but would I be a fool to not pull the timing cover off to at least inspect the chain at this point? At 195k miles is it time for a new water pump too?
I ended up sending off my 0331 to be cleaned and inspected for cracks. $100-200 versus $700 for a new head.
How far would I go? I'd pull the engine. That way I can get it tanked, cleaned, properly inspected all surfaces machined, new expansion plugs, nice paint, everything "touched".
Did you check compression before you took it apart?
I did not; it ran very smoothly with no misfires. I do have an articulating inspection camera ( like the SWAT teams use in the movies ). I can look inside the crankcase when I pull the timing chain cover and look for chunks.
So I figure while the XJ is buried in the back of my four-car garage, why not “do it right”? I’ve been in this conundrum before with my B4 Passat. I’ve been watching many YT vids of guys doing overhauls in-situ and it doesn’t seem like it’s really that hard. Now, I’m not planning on replacing bearings, etc but would I be a fool to not pull the timing cover off to at least inspect the chain at this point? At 195k miles is it time for a new water pump too?
I ended up sending off my 0331 to be cleaned and inspected for cracks. $100-200 versus $700 for a new head.
I would get a 0331 head off a 2003 grand cherokee that is a TUPY head those are better , they don't crack like yours can .
I replaced the 0331 head on my 2000 Cherokee a week after I bought it. Just as a precaution. TUPY heads are super cheap. I got one for $75 at the junkyard. Local machine shop cleaned up the valves and seats, installed new springs and put a fresh surface on it for $150. $225 for TUPY head that you'll never have to worry about. Installing a non-TUPY 0331 head isn't really an option. Just kinda asking for trouble.
As far as digging into your bottom end. I've never personally seen bad bearings in a Jeep engine. Every Jeep engine I've torn down, the bearing literally look brand new. If you've never had oil pressure issues or sparkly oil, I wouldn't worry about it. Only the rings and cylinder surface finish would be worth working on. How do the cylinders look? Good cross hatch? No cross hatch and polished looking? Decent cross hatch with a little glazing? You be the judge. Not that time consuming of a job. Just have to pop out each piston/rod and get the old dingleberry hone in there and get some new rings. You could definitely replace the rear main seal and timing set though. Titian engine is now selling a double roller timing set for the late model blocks. Pretty sweet.
I pulled the timing cover and found a very flexible chain. I just now realize the the bottom gasket is actually the oil pan gasket. Could I clean it and reuse it or should I slice it with a razor and use RTV at the edges with the Fel-Pro kit that comes with a new bottom gasket?
I just now realize the the bottom gasket is actually the oil pan gasket. Could I clean it and reuse it or should I slice it with a razor and use RTV at the edges with the Fel-Pro kit that comes with a new bottom gasket?
I would just replace it after installing the new rear main seal. If you don't feel like doing the rear main seal, just clean the front part of the pan gasket with some solvent, apply a thin coating of RTV to that whole front lip and drop the cover back into place. No need to cut it, those pan gaskets are indestructible.
Ugh as much as I don’t want to do the rear main seal I have everything else torn apart and I was going to use my cherry picker anyways to hold up the block while I replaced the engine mounts. Well, why not… it’s just a few more bolts lol…
I would just replace it after installing the new rear main seal. If you don't feel like doing the rear main seal, just clean the front part of the pan gasket with some solvent, apply a thin coating of RTV to that whole front lip and drop the cover back into place. No need to cut it, those pan gaskets are indestructible.
Wait - is there a front main seal too?? I see it on RockAuto. Doesn’t the timing chain cover seal take care of that?
11-06-2022, 04:30 PM
How far would you go? (gettin knee deep here…)
