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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Lots of folks have eliminated the leaky/trouble prone heater control valve. The Factory eliminated it on '97 and up XJs.
Well I just finished replacing the water pump, and have had a couple of issues when filling up the coolant. I filled up my radiator through the rad cap, and then added more coolant to the resevoir to the low line as stated in my owners manual, was about 7.5 quarts. Then with the rad cap still off started the truck will the heater on, letting it idle for about 7-8 minutes hoping to pour more coolant once most the air came out, but when I turned the truck off, about a quart or two shot out of the rad top all over the engine, cleaned up most of the mess afterwards, put the rad cap on and started the truck again, after idling for 10 minutes with. The heater on I turned it off, very warm air was coming out of the vent which I presume is a good sign but I want to make sure I got all the air out of the system before driving it.
Also, both times i started it, there was a very loud squeal for a second or two right after turn over, and didn't come back, what could ve causing this? Maybe the belt isn't tight enough?
Last edited by Sebastianc2012; 10-16-2014 at 06:44 PM.
I assume you have this down by now but will mention:
After the initial fill and idle, put the radiator cap on before turning the engine off.
The '96 ('91+) will self-burp -- just watch the cold coolant level in the bottle and radiator for several heat/cool cycles after the initial fill and add as necessary. With a patient initial fill, I find that I rarely have to any significant amount of coolant.
Squealing is likely a loose belt. Tighten just until squeal stops, neither more nor less. This assumes that there is no reason to believe you have a failing bearing or harmonic balancer and that belt is new or at least in relatively good condition (new in your case).
Heater core is the little "radiator" part in the cabin that warms the air flowing through the HVAC ducts and vents.
I assume you have this down by now but will mention:
After the initial fill and idle, put the radiator cap on before turning the engine off.
The '96 ('91+) will self-burp -- just watch the cold coolant level in the bottle and radiator for several heat/cool cycles after the initial fill and add as necessary. With a patient initial fill, I find that I rarely have to any significant amount of coolant.
Squealing is likely a loose belt. Tighten just until squeal stops, neither more nor less. This assumes that there is no reason to believe you have a failing bearing or harmonic balancer and that belt is new or at least in relatively good condition (new in your case).
Heater core is the little "radiator" part in the cabin that warms the air flowing through the HVAC ducts and vents.
So should I open the radiator once cool and refill to the top if not full to replace the coolant that shot out? And then just check it over the next few days when cold to make sure radiator is staying full
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by HarleyRob
ok, thanks. and the heater core is the thing where the thermostat is? i'm learning
The heater core is actually inside the cab, under the dash on the passenger side. It's a miniature radiator, really. Hot water from the engine flows through it, and a fan blow air across it, which picks up heat, and the warm air goes into your vents.
In the engine compartment, follow the heater hoses (the smaller ones - about an inch in diameter, give or take) to the firewall. That's where they connect into the heater core.
So I shouldnt have to worry about air in the system?
Thanks for the help
The key is to check coolant level in both the bottle AND rad on a regular basis, motor COLD. The rad should be full to the top when checked and the bottle about 1/3 full, motor COLD. If coolant level in the rad is not full to the top, motor COLD, then air has entered the system. A properly functioning rad cap is critical.
I flushed the entire system this week as I mentioned earlier in the thread. Here's what I got out of the heater core. The radiator and engine had crunk in them as well, but not as bad as the heater core.
Don't worry about air in the system. By draining the coolant and later on filling everything back up, by definition you will have air in the system.
Your year cooling system is 'self burping' and if all up to scratch, it will take care of that. Just as suggested, check the coolant level a few times in the days after when the engine has gone through a few heat up/cool down cycles
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Bleh. That's almost as ugly as my face!
If'n I were you, I'd clean that out again using a flush. No, not one you buy at the auto parts store.
Use laundry detergent. AMWAY laundry detergent. Best radiator flush in the world. Toss a quarter cup in there and run it that way for a month. It's got built-in rust inhibitors, and it's really kind to your system. It will get things sparkling clean in there.
You can find a local distributor on the AMWAY site. You want the SA8 powder. I guess the liquid would be fine, too, but I don't have any experience with it.
The heater core is actually inside the cab, under the dash on the passenger side. It's a miniature radiator, really. Hot water from the engine flows through it, and a fan blow air across it, which picks up heat, and the warm air goes into your vents.
In the engine compartment, follow the heater hoses (the smaller ones - about an inch in diameter, give or take) to the firewall. That's where they connect into the heater core.
If'n I were you, I'd clean that out again using a flush. No, not one you buy at the auto parts store.
Use laundry detergent. AMWAY laundry detergent. Best radiator flush in the world. Toss a quarter cup in there and run it that way for a month. It's got built-in rust inhibitors, and it's really kind to your system. It will get things sparkling clean in there.
You can find a local distributor on the AMWAY site. You want the SA8 powder. I guess the liquid would be fine, too, but I don't have any experience with it.
No, I don't sell it.
So, if you dont use the water hose to flush. How are you guys doing this? What are you adding the detergent to (I assume water but how?)? I've seen someone suggest using distilled water and vinegar but how are you forcing the mix through the system.
So, if you dont use the water hose to flush. How are you guys doing this? What are you adding the detergent to (I assume water but how?)? I've seen someone suggest using distilled water and vinegar but how are you forcing the mix through the system.
An alternative to garden hose flushing is to simply drain the cooling system by removing the bottom rad hose from the water pump and removing the rad cap. U'll get about 2.5 gals of old coolant/crud out....especially if u have the front of the vehicle lower than the rear.
Once it's drained and with the vehicle back on level ground, fill it with fresh 50/50. The fresh coolant will probably start to darken in color fairly quickly (keep an eye on it, inspect frequently, motor COLD). When coolant starts to darken, do the drain and refill again. The interval between drain/refills will become longer before coolant color starts to darken. Drain/refill long before coolant gets to the color shown in the pic above. The coolant in that pic is from owner neglect.
10-16-2014, 06:37 PM
