How long to do a head gasket
#1
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Model: Cherokee
How long to do a head gasket
how long would it take to do a head gasket on a 98 cherokee. Any idea on how much it would cost if i did it my self.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
it'll cost you the price of a head gasket set (80 bucks at autozone) and new head bolts (36 bucks at autozone), as well as coolant and oil. it's about a 8-10 hour job for the average joe. Parts will be cheaper at say... rockauto.com, You will be needing a deep well 12 point 1/2 inch socket for the head bolts, a valve spring compressor, and a torque wrench... aside from stuff that you'd usually find in a mechanics tool set.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
4.0 in the mj? guess you're not the average joe... lol
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
on the manifolds, a 14mm racheting wrench is definately a big help.
#6
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: flux capacitor
it'll cost you the price of a head gasket set (80 bucks at autozone) and new head bolts (36 bucks at autozone), as well as coolant and oil. it's about a 8-10 hour job for the average joe. Parts will be cheaper at say... rockauto.com, You will be needing a deep well 12 point 1/2 inch socket for the head bolts, a valve spring compressor, and a torque wrench... aside from stuff that you'd usually find in a mechanics tool set.
Last edited by knuckleduster271; 12-07-2011 at 07:51 PM.
#7
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I replaced my entire cylinder head earlier this year. Took my time and it was a breeze.No valve spring compressor needed. And yes the manifolds are a PITA.
The one bolt that is mentioned needs a thread sealer. I searched around and found that ACE Hardware sells some stuff called "PIPE THREAD COMPOUND TFE PASTE" its the exact same stuff as the Loctite stuff,and the Loctite stuff is pretty spendy and hard to find(except online)This way you can go to your local ACE and have the stuff the same day. I got a 1 Fl Oz tube for less than $5.00.Why spend all the money on the Loctite stuff when this stuff from ACE is the same stuff,cheaper and available locally?
If I could find a Cheap MJ or XJ or any other Jeep with a 4.0 and all it needed was a head gasket,I wouldnt hesitate purchasing it. It appears to be a huge job,but its REALLY straight forward and simple.
Take your time,take lots of pics for reference,tag and bag bolts/nuts and consult this website with any questions(even the obvious and dumb ones) and youll have zero trouble accomplishing the job. Youll feel much more satisfaction doing it yourself,over having a shop do it for you. And then with the experience,you can help others who are thinking about tackling the job.
The head bolts can be reused once. Its suggested that you put a dab of whit paint on top if you do decide to reuse them,that way in the future for yourself or someone else,this can be reference that the bolts need to be replaced/
If you decide to do the job yourself,pm me anytime you need assistance,and ill attempt to help you out. Keep in mind I can only give you hints and tips on what worked for me,but yours really shouldnt be too much different.If you decide to tackle the job yourself,I wish you luck.
The one bolt that is mentioned needs a thread sealer. I searched around and found that ACE Hardware sells some stuff called "PIPE THREAD COMPOUND TFE PASTE" its the exact same stuff as the Loctite stuff,and the Loctite stuff is pretty spendy and hard to find(except online)This way you can go to your local ACE and have the stuff the same day. I got a 1 Fl Oz tube for less than $5.00.Why spend all the money on the Loctite stuff when this stuff from ACE is the same stuff,cheaper and available locally?
If I could find a Cheap MJ or XJ or any other Jeep with a 4.0 and all it needed was a head gasket,I wouldnt hesitate purchasing it. It appears to be a huge job,but its REALLY straight forward and simple.
Take your time,take lots of pics for reference,tag and bag bolts/nuts and consult this website with any questions(even the obvious and dumb ones) and youll have zero trouble accomplishing the job. Youll feel much more satisfaction doing it yourself,over having a shop do it for you. And then with the experience,you can help others who are thinking about tackling the job.
The head bolts can be reused once. Its suggested that you put a dab of whit paint on top if you do decide to reuse them,that way in the future for yourself or someone else,this can be reference that the bolts need to be replaced/
If you decide to do the job yourself,pm me anytime you need assistance,and ill attempt to help you out. Keep in mind I can only give you hints and tips on what worked for me,but yours really shouldnt be too much different.If you decide to tackle the job yourself,I wish you luck.
Last edited by 90_cherokee; 12-07-2011 at 08:56 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Valve spring compresser because the gasket set comes with new valve seals. Why would you have the head off for a gasket and not change those while you're in there? Doesn't make sense to leave yourself open to having to buy another head gasket when you have to pull the head down the road to change valve seals...
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Laredo
I scanned the other replies and didn't see any advice to rebuild the head while it's off.. That gasket blew for a reason, and even if it didn't overheat and warp, a '98 probably has plenty of miles to warrant a valve grindin' and some new guides. I had mine done (with resurfacing) and using old valves for under $100
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
#10
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: flux capacitor
I scanned the other replies and didn't see any advice to rebuild the head while it's off.. That gasket blew for a reason, and even if it didn't overheat and warp, a '98 probably has plenty of miles to warrant a valve grindin' and some new guides. I had mine done (with resurfacing) and using old valves for under $100
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
Oh yeah.. those manifold bolts are a joy to fiddle with
Last edited by knuckleduster271; 12-08-2011 at 03:41 PM.
#11
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
well, to replace valve stem seals without taking the head off, you have to have a different type of valve spring compresser, and an air compressor with a fitting to screw into the spark plug holes to hold the valves closed so they don't drop into the cylinder... but since you're already changing the head gasket... and the seals come with the head gasket set... why would anyone in their right mind not change them while they have the head off anyway? sheesh
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: flux capacitor
I usually dont lol.. usually if you have a bad seal its due to a bad valve and i dont wanna spend the extra $$ on getting the head redone if its not necessary. Around here most shops charge $2-300 to redo heads. I got better things to spend money on if its not broke.. I guess im cheap lol Half the time i dont even buy a complete head gasket set- just the head gasket itself and whatever i need thats in the way of the headgasket
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Dont forget to use a swivel for the driverside rear head bolt. The way the firewall is it doesnt allow a line drive when setting that bolt (No matter how hard you try.)
#14
Everything you need to know.
Note: If you have a 2000-2001, I suggest swapping heads and finding a way to keep your coil on plug, I put aluminum brackets off the valve cover bolts to hold the spark rail to the plugs.
Note: The rear right head bolt is a pain in the behind, make sure you put it in when you go to put the head back on.
Note: The front right (drivers side) head bolt goes into the cooling jacket.
Note: Ensure the intake manifold is on the studs before you tighten the bolts, and put them on there pretty tight, if there is an intake leak, your engines vacuum will be virtually non-existent, causing 1. Your engine to run horribly, and 2. Your motor will literally runaway like a runaway diesel, redline itself to death.
Note: Make sure to resurface the head, I suggest using acetone, it really works miracles on engine parts.
Suggestion: Lap your valves while you're at it, it makes the engine breathe a lot better, and your 4.0 will sound so good.
Suggestion: Soak your cylinders in acetone, finish by wiping the head of the piston and the bore and clearing of any carbon buildup.
Suggestion: Port your intake and exhaust holes in the head.