Would like to see if any of you have run into any problems after going that high. Like to see list of mods and pic.

 

'92 XJ w/ Rusty's 8" LongArm.



Not happy with it, it performs like it should, I'm just real picky. I'm still having issues with the steering and believe it's due to the lift height and width of tires. The lift is Rustys LA w/ 8" lift coils upfront, 6" lift leafs and 1.5" lift shackles at rear. Bushwacker cut-outs give more than enough room for the 35"x13.5"x15" Toyo's on 15"x10" steel rims. I went w/ Bilstien shocks but need larger bumpstops. My attempt to correct the steering I've installed RockyRoad OTT:
http://www.rocky-road.com/xjott.html and it helps a lot, next I need to replace my ball joints and maybe go to a shorter drop pitman arm.



It's too top heavy for me...
I still may lower it 2" and change to 35"x12.5" tires on 8" wide rims.

 

Great Looking Jeep you got there. I am diggin the white top.

 

Im running 6 1/2 inch lift kit from Rustys. It rides good and everything wroks the way I figured it would. I have 35 inch tires. I need to trim a little but havent gotten around to it.

 

When raising a truck (especially an XJ) above 4.5 inches, several points of weakness are revealed.. and the more you want to fix one, the more you want to fix them all. The problem becomes the pocketbook, or at least it did for me.



My list of improvements in order of perceved need, not necessarily want:

1. 91 XJ 4x4 2door 5speed
   
2. (Ordered) 5.5 Rubicon Express Long Arm w/8"zj springs and 2.5" rear shackles, SYE kit and Tom Woods CVshaft for a D35 rear
3. Upon install I fixed my rear main seal leak which gave me the oppertunity to replace the clutch and flywheel
   
4. With the RELA kit, came a frame brace from frame rail to frame rail under the oil pan which wouldnt bolt up from saging engine mounts so I replaced them
   
5. I decided to run 33s so I needed to change gear ratio to 4.56s
6. With 33s, axle shafts have a tendency to break, to I looked for a D44, couldnt find one (a junk yard kept sending the wrong one 3 times!, so I switched it up and told them I wanted a 31 spline Ford 9".. when I got it, it needed narrowed so I had the leaf mounts and shock mounts removed so I could fix the angle w/o shims.. also replaced all brakes and brake lines.. also had the drums (+1 extra set) and axle shafts drilled to accomidate the stock 5on5.5 bolt pattern
   
7. while I was there for the gears (like the rear main & clutch) I decided to install lockers (ARBs b/c of the selectability and their low failure rate combind with its (my) geographically specific application) It was the right locker for what I wanted to do with it and it was cost justified in my mind.. so they were ordered & installed (I ordered an ARB for the front b/c it was cheaper to do it at the same time)
   
8. With the rear so bullet proof I decided to upgrade the front with a super 30 kit which got rid of the vacume and 3piece axle shafts THE weakest point of the axle.
9. When I had the gears and ARB installed by someone who knew what they were doing.. the super 30 was installed with (+) axle seals (no use to install all that goodness and let water get it..
10. I replaced all the brakes and calipers up front too..
    
11. While installing the switches in the cab, I decided to replace the radio with a low model but very heigh end manufacturer (Alpine)
    
12. While I did that I decided to replace the speakers with marine grade Polk audio speakers
    
13. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882290056
14. then I figured that with all the bullet proofness.. I should upgrade the steering.. went with an Off Road Only U-Turn kit w/steering stablizer
    
15. ready to button it up and roll it out to have new custom exaust made +alignment... no.. the stock rims with stock backspacing hit the new steering setup... so craigslist... now has 35s on -3.75 backspacing
16. suspension + 35" tires could not reach full flex to I cut off a lot of fender.. so much for the bushwackers.. have to go custom.. not done yet
    
17. while I was trimming fenders I found an article to make the door removeable.. so I did that..
    
18. because I ordered the RELA origionally with a D35, and now having a ford 9" I need a new custom CVshaft for the rear... so I will do the front as well..
    
19. Most recently.. and the reason for replacing the suspension to begin with.. the death wobble mitigation.. a buddy fabbed up a bracket to fix a wollowed out mount.. the supposed most overlooked and most important death wobble fix
    
20. http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
21. Now I will get it out to the shaft shop + the exaust shop + the alignment shop
22. then I need to see what breaks and fix that...
23. to add to the whole thing I have been reading about custom integrated rock sliders on www.ericsxj.com -> see the "beefing it up thread)
24. And there is talk about how the frame of an xj is weak, especially near the steering box
25. so now Im going through strengthening and reducing body/sub frame flex

This is why I have decided to call my truck "The Never Ending Project"

the face says it all...

but once I am on the road should be the case..

unless of course the rear main seal still leaks.................. ya.. I'll get over it But I will have to just tear it all down again

 

one thing I forgot. More do to the tires then the lift. The brakes now suck. I got an 8.8 Ford rearend. It is the correct width but I need to weld new bracets on it. This will make my xj disk brakes all the way around. Hoping that will be enough to have good brakes again. If not I will have to upgrade the brake system.

 

No pics right now, but I have RE 7.5" on home grown long arms and custom bastard pack rear leaves. Added a Tereflex high steer due to nasty drag link angles. Raised the track bar mount 5" to match the high steer. Drove well before I pulled it down to do some upgrades. Hopefully out of the shop this weekend.

 

this is my 94 cherokee with a custom 7.5" long arm with tiny 6" lift shocks on 35's, will change with Bilstein 5150's when i get around to it. the long arms are from RC and they work great.

 

6.5" with 35". Seems somewhat decent, haven't really flexed it out yet. Still running stock upper control arms until I can break or afford good uppers.

 

look through my threads below. i have the 6.5 inch critical long arm from IRO, heavy duty over the knuckle steering. love it handles great.

 

Im on rc 6.5 Long arm and 33's its pretty flexy and doesnt ride horrrible, not too many (lift specific) problems.

 

im sittin on 10.5 and going to 12 soon still got a little rub with 4 people ridding

 

R.C 6.5" Long Arm on 33's Lots of flex...enough to bend rear quarters. Affectionately called the "bounce castle" cuz it rides a bit rough in comparrison to other vehicles. Only issue I have is the steering and hope to correct that with a crossover system soon now I'm pressing on with by bumper and rock rail install. As of now steering feels a lil loose when turning.

 

8" Rustys Long Arm, bought like this from previous owner. Says it has upgraded steering, but I'm not positive what it has. 35s and cut fenders

 

you will need to address the steering, control arms, brake lines, SYE plus a whole bunch of other stuff to do it right.

im right at 6.5" and it was a pain to get it to work right.