If I was able to order parts overnight and wasn't a Holiday, there would be lots of wrenches in action.
I'm not afraid to get wrenching, dirty and get her scratched up... Just afraid to leave it stock lol

 

Ok on that note...

I want a 4 inch lift, no more no less. I just think it's right.

I really like what I've read about the OME suspensions.
I need my XJ to be ready to tackle DD and then play and go back to work on Monday.
In your opinions, which suspension setup would you choose?

Here are some needs from the suspension:
carry weight gracefully, but not harsh when empty.
Lots of hwy runs, far stuff. 1000+ often.
Some local driving.
getting in the light to medium trails, exploring new areas (to me), fishing off the beaches, Playing in snow and running through the SouthWest's deserts/ sand dunes.
being loaded with camping gear, Kayak & MTB on roof.
I guess I'm mostly concerned is being able to carry significant weight without harm to the XJ.

Suggestions?

I"d like to order it all tomorrow if possible.

 

Nice Jeep! As far as the fog lights go I think it is a common problem for them to burn out after awhile. At the moment I've got a 2000 Cherokee Classic, and a 1998 Cherokee Limited - both of the them have fog lights, and neither worked when I got them. I just ordered new fog lights, and installed them and they work great. Sounds like you may have to do the same...good luck with it.

 

You should change the oil with some 10w-40 and a WIX filter as soon as you can, it may quiet the engine down a little.

 

Sounds like you got some noisy lifters... I'd get on a new oil change. 10W - 30 or 40 Rotella, and a Wix or Napa Gold filter.

EDIT: Someone beat me to the post.

 

I know...
With the Holiday I wasn't able to get many things done, hell it's only day 2.
First thing tomorrow is the oil change.
then to get the HD fan clutch installed to keep the temps in check.
After those two things, front and rears will get oil changed. Btw what weight oil? same for front and rear? What if I have the factory LSD, will it matter??
Then hopefully Friday I can get the trans juice changed too. But I'd like to get the Tru-Cool MAX transmission cooler first.
XJ's have 3/8" trans lines?

 

Most will probably recommend 10w - 40 oil.

If your oil pressure is reading good, About 40PSI - 50PSI cold idle. 13PSI - 20PSI hot idle. I would not recommend using a 40 weight oil, rather a 30. Your pressure is still good at these levels. If your pressure is fine, then it's going to be about quality, rather quantity, or in this case... Thickness. As for brand... It's usually a preference between the community. I prefer Rotella. Filters are usually one sided, Wix. You can get these at Napa, however they're called "Napa Gold". Same exact filter, still made by Wix, different name.

Also if you're having heat issues, start small. Check your coolant levels. Rent a heat gun from a parts store to confirm temps. It could be a faulty temp sender. If not, start with the proper t-stat. Should be a 195* stat. Still doesn't cut it for you, radiator flush. Or do them both at the same time.

 

thanks!
there is a brand new rad, rad cap and antifreeze from the PO. (one month old)
While rolling at posted speeds, town or Hwy it's 205-209 traffic it will climb to 220 and hold steady but drop the moment I move forward. I don't think I have a problem... I have a scanguage so I can keep a close eye on temps.

I'm installing the HD fan clutch tomorrow, I can't see it hurting anything. Hopefully I'm right and this might help to stabilize temps or at least keep the traffic temps under 210.
He's why I'm thinking this, with the a/c on it runs 207 in the same traffic.
Would it hurt to try a 180Tstat? it's easy enough and cheap enough...

Oil...
Yup pressure seems to be normal.
But I'd like to get the oil changed tomorrow and in one week to see if that will help to normally flush out the stuff that has built up in the past 13 years. I was thinking about adding one of those engine flushes chemicals... but would rather change the oil very frequently instead.
in a week or so I'll be changing the valve cover gasket, leaks a little... I'll be sure to get a pic inside there.

 

in my pic, the yellow line is the vacuum line that controls the a/c right?
It looks perfect, how can I test it?
the defogger vent thing is driving me nuts... but only when I'm driving.

 

If you've already paid, and installing in a fan clutch, hold off on the t-stat. Factory specs call for 195 degree stat. If you can't get that working for you, then there's a different issue that doesn't involve the t-stat. Your temps sound fine however, if a little on the high side (220).

run your new oil at least 500+ miles before changing it again. One oil change, on a short run, isn't going to make everything disappear overnight. It takes months of frequent oil changes on good filters to do this. Unless you're putting in additives, or really good synthetics.

Valve cover leaks just make everything messy... Usually doesn't impact engine performance unless it's causing a lot of oil loss.

As for the A/C, can't help you there. Mine is out of juice, don't really care much to charge it.

 

I dont think it has been said but if you had a lsd in the back you will need a friction modifier..runs about 8 bucks.
I think I have 65 weight (I think) gear lube in mine and It works great.

 

There is usually more than one way to do things and more than one product that can be used. The factory calls for 75-90 for the diffs, or 75-140 with the tow package. If you have the rear limited slip, Pennzoil Synchromesh will work well and give the the clutches what they need. Royal Purple has a compatible product as well, but I can't recall the name.

Get familiar with www.rockauto.com for parts. They're about 40%-60% cheaper than any chain parts store I've tried. I've bought dozens of parts from them, including a complete new cooling and AC system, and spent around $2500. Everything has worked great so far with their parts.

I got my rear lift supports from them for about $15 each. Monroe brand I believe. They work great! Almost too great, as my fiance has some trouble shutting the rear hatch.

A 4" lift will most likely get you any place you say you want to go, but that 4" puts you in the height range that starts requiring more parts which adds to expense and greatly increases the likelihood of driveline vibration and death wobble issues. Things like custom/adjustable track bar, slip yoke eliminator and/or wedges to correct pinion angle, and a dropped t-case. I know this wont happen on every vehicle, but especially for death wobble, it is a common enough issue that has proven elusive and difficult to correct for many, so it is worth serious consideration.

Unless you just want the look of the height that 4" gives, you don't really need it for your described adventures. A better approach may be a 2" lift and some fender trimming or flat flares, which should accommodate your 31" tires (assuming proper wheel width and backspacing), and some good shocks to allow proper articulation. A lift does nothing for your straight-line ground clearance, although larger tires will. Your approach/departure/breakover angles will improve with a lift, but a 4" lift does not double those figures over a 2" lift. The 4" may improve those angle by 8%-12% over a 2" lift (off the top of my head). The 4" lift also often dictates a dropped t-case, so your breakover angles diminish.

The other thing that a surprising amount of people don't consider until it's too late...

Many garage door openings are technically rated at 7 feet in height (only about 15% are 8 feet tall (I have a client that is a garage door distributor)), but because of the door hang may only give a usable 6' 9" in clearance. Add bigger tires, a 4" lift, and a cargo rack with lights and you may find yourself unable to park in the garage!
Just something to think about.

Congrats on what appears to be a great score! It sounds like you did your homework first (which most of us members appreciate over just asking questions that the answers are easy to search for) and I hope you enjoy building it up! I'm a relative newcomer here, but this forum is a great place, and there are some folks here that are a wealth of hard-earned knowledge that are very generous with their time and advice. Best of luck to you!

 

I'm speachless...
some great info!

Thanks guys

I have to run out, but will answer later.

 

while doing my first mod today, I also broke something...

I bought and installed the heavy duty fan clutch.
real easy... up until I went to install the shroud.
that thing fell apart in pieces while trying to slide it into place. Brittle and dry rotted from age/heat- I understand.

Now she's running pretty warm, Yeah I know it's used to direct the air through the rad.
I looked on line for a new one, partsgeek wants 15.xx shipped Rockauto wants 25.xx shipped Both are 5-6 days out. Other suggestions? This is my only vehicle.

<---

 

I picked a fan shroud up for $10 at a junk yard. Just be careful with them because as you've found out, they break. The one I pulled from the yard broke, so I glued it back together. I was running without one for a while, didn't have any heating issues.

Maybe your new HD fan clutch is putting heavier load on your engine?