If your going to get a new radiator, you could switch to an open system for a little extra cost.

 

I have never quite understood this XJ cooling system burping issue.......I just don't think it is an issue if the system is refilled properly and slowly.

If one checks/maintains coolant level in the radiator and bottle (open system) REGULARLY or checks the level in the expansion bottle (closed system) regularly, there ain't no air in the system. When the cooling system is neglected, poorly maintained, seldom if ever checked.....but when it is checked and one can't see coolant, then there's air in the system.

The front of the motor is obviously higher than the rear and coolant exits the front of the motor so wouldn't air naturally migrate to the highest point of the motor and thus exit the motor? If I'm not mistaken, the expansion bottle (closed system) is even higher than the front of the motor and the expansion bottle is part of the coolant bypass system. That big hole beside the t-stat allows coolant AND AIR to exit the motor the moment the motor starts.

We just drained/refilled the coolant in our XJ yesterday. For the open system, it takes about 20 minutes and about $10 in antifreeze/coolant and bottled water (2 gals.). Remove the air filter box, remove the bottom rad hose from the water pump, drain coolant into a bucket, drain plastic bottle, re-attach rad hose, fill with fresh coolant/water mix, LET IDLE WITH THE RAD CAP OFF. Keep rad full while idling and put the cap back on when coolant starts to flow/burp out of the rad. Checked rad and bottle this AM.....added maybe a cup of coolant to the bottle.

I wouldn't think the procedure for the closed system would be much different from the open system and cruiser54 seems to verify burping is a non-issue.

Should the XJs coolant level in both the radiator and bottle be checked on a frequent/regular basis??????........hell yes.

I still see no cooling advantage of one vs the other (open vs closed).

 

ok im up and adam 830 sunday to fix this damm issue if this doesnt work hope you can throw me some advice when you get a chance.....

 

do you know how much coolant should go in to the vehicle.....? i know it is trivial but i know notta about cars but am quickly learning.....

 

the reason you dont see it as a problem is because you and i do not have a closed system, it IS a problem and if not done as others have stated it will have air trapped. if you search you could spend an entire day reading threads about this very issue. and you mention checking the rad and bottle for coolant, thats fine for us, however the renix era xjs have no rad cap, hence the closed system designation. the only place to check it is at the bottle, and that is where the pressure cap is as well

 

Djb is very familiar with our cooling systems.

I dont think he has any issue understanding anything, especially due to what cooling system he has.

 

I believe this gent knows a little bit about closed systems.


I've spent 2 1/2 years reading all of the "How to Bleed the Cooling System" threads and still just shake my head in disbelief at most of them......I mean from parking the nose downhill to removing the coolant temp sensor at the back of the head....WTF. Why would one want the back of the motor higher than the front (parking nose downhill)......air naturally rises to the highest point and the front of the motor is not only the highest point, it's where coolant AND AIR exit the motor....so again, why would u want the back of the motor higher than the front but u can read post after post about parking the nose down hill to bleed the system. If the vehicle is parked on reasonably level ground, what good is removing the temp sensor in the rear/lower part of the head????.....any air has naturally moved to the front/higher part of the head......in either system. I think I have a good understanding of both systems but don't understand why there has been so many "bleeding the system" threads that just don't make logical sense.

Air rises in either system.....air gets removed/trapped in the expansion bottle of the "closed system" and air is removed to the recovery bottle of the "open system". Either system is effective and simple and neither has a cooling advantage over the other despite what has been post saying so in other threads.

Just because statements have been made over and over again in threads/forums doesn't mean the statements/info is always accurate. Dayum!....I just had a brilliant idea......I'll start a TV show and call it MythBusters. There's a hole bunch of smart folks here and I could draw upon their wisdom.

 

I learned a long time ago to NOT ARGUE with a forum member with 15,000+ posts........ESPECIALLY when his handle is G o D.

 

forgive me oh wise one
obviously i did not look at youre post count, sulks away!

 

Ain't none of us right all the time and I'll be all open ears, with my mouth shut, and more than willing to learn something new if there is some validity to or a reasonable explanation for parking the nose down hill and/or removing the temp sensor in the back (the low part) of the head to bleed the cooling system. '97 up don't have a temp sensor in the back of the head (the low part)......guess it's impossible to burp those years.

 

Imagine this if you will. I worked as Service Manager and Shop Foreman at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992. How many coolant changes do you think we did at 22,500 mile intervals on Renix Jeeps with 4.0s from 87 through 92?

NEVER bled a single cotton pickin' one.

 

So......is the cooling system "bleeding secret" parking the nose down hill?

 

Our shop floors were perfectly flat.

 

And 20 years later you still remember all the part numbers? Man, your family must hate you lol

 

FIRST, if you havent, replace the radiator cap, this is commonly over looked. The spring on the cap gets weak over time, making it easier for hot expanding coolant to exit into the over flow bottle and onto the pavement. They should be no more than $5.

IF not, Ill put my bet on you needing a radiator. I had a very similar problem with my 2000xj. When id drive then shut it off it would start gurgling coolant into the over flow bottle. Just driving around time it would puke antifreeze. Did radiator flush and replaced with new rad cap and all was fine. (around town at least)

I tried driving outta town once and my temp gauge at normal 210 shot instantly to 260. Immediately pulled over and sure enough, gurgling over flow bottle puking coolant. I already knew everything was good...thermostat, rad cap, water pump, heater core, hoses, and coolant. Turns out the radiator was beyond clogged. I took the whole thing out, and of all cleaning products to use, I sprayed brake cleaner in the radiator and a good 6-7oz (half a coke can) of rusty gunky crap came out. I was convinced i needed a new one. I installed the CSF 3 row radiator and all is fine now.