I need diff help
#31
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
#32
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
#33
I didn't do anything to the internals except inspect them (they were fine) and inspect the wheel bearings. the axle had 120k on it, and was a non c-clip.
I didn't even get a chance to do burnouts or anything before then. I actually installed it, drove it to work, back, then 1.5 hours to a fellow comancheclub member's house to pick him up and bring him to my house so he could buy a comanche from a guy who lived down by me. on the way back is when it started shooting teeth literally through the cover.
I don't know much history on the vehicle it came out of, except that it was a daily driven vehicle, and I was the third owner of the vehicle...it had regular maintenance other than they never washed the salt off in the winter (thus parts vehicle).
sometimes they break, sometimes they don't.
#34
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
That.
I beleive that 99% of ring and pinion failure is due to regearing and incorrect installation, when lubricant is present.
I don't want to say with this that you installed the diff in a wrong way,
but i say that obtaining the correct toe and heel contact pattern is a science.
I personally have done this many times, i read tons of manuals about this and i still get some failure occasionally. This is very frustrating because when you finally think you own the method it happens again and all your theories about it lose value.
I arrived to install a temperature sensor on the housing to monitor the heat increment and avoid the breaking but you just can't get it like the factory installation.
I have noticed that with the higher ratios it is more frequent, prolly because the torque is higher.
I beleive that 99% of ring and pinion failure is due to regearing and incorrect installation, when lubricant is present.
I don't want to say with this that you installed the diff in a wrong way,
but i say that obtaining the correct toe and heel contact pattern is a science.
I personally have done this many times, i read tons of manuals about this and i still get some failure occasionally. This is very frustrating because when you finally think you own the method it happens again and all your theories about it lose value.
I arrived to install a temperature sensor on the housing to monitor the heat increment and avoid the breaking but you just can't get it like the factory installation.
I have noticed that with the higher ratios it is more frequent, prolly because the torque is higher.
#36
godmn just go buy a stinkin 8.25..im on my second d35 in 3 months..they are fine for stock tires under daily driving conditions...
anything more is no garuntees.
get c8.25.
big *** tires.
lift and what have you.
be done with it
my two cents
anything more is no garuntees.
get c8.25.
big *** tires.
lift and what have you.
be done with it
my two cents
#37
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
I agree, get the 8.25... don't listen to some guy rant about how great his d35 is on the highway... you bought a jeep, you don't plan on just cruising mall parking lots with those 33's, do you?
#38
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Year: 1990 2door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I see that there's quite a difference of opinion. I can get a Dana 44 for about $300 from a JY where he pulls it. Not bad in my book. Do I have to change the front axle when I change the rear? I'm assuming that I have to at least change the front gearing, right??? Thanks for all your input
#40
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
I've got a dana 35 with a noise every time I let off the gas. The guy at the parts place said that it might be my u-joints, so I replaced them...Still have the noise. It sounds like a vibration/grinding noise. Could it be the rear seal bearing??? I'm running 31's and am planning on changing my gears to 4:11 so I can slap on 33's. I didn't see any problems when I checked the gear oil. I'm at a loss. thanks for any help.
If you plan on going to 33's, I would suggest 2 things... 4.56 gearing, and an 8.25 with 29spline shafts if you offroad.
#41
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
if it's out of an xj, most of them have the 3.07 gears front and back and will match... that doesn't mean some of them weren't changed, or wasn't a model that had a different gearing though... you gotta make sure front and rear gears are matched.
#42
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
#43
now that's not right.
a 5 speed 4.0 xj will have 3.07 gears, MAYBE 3.55's if it's one in a million
an automatic 4.0 will have 3.55's, if you're lucky 3.73 with the tow package and MAYBE 3.07's if it's one in a million.
2.5 5 speed is 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, generally a 4.10 and one chance in a million that it's 3.55's
2.5 4 speed will have 3.55 or 3.73
2.5 auto will have 4.10, 4.56, and IIRC there are a select few that *may* have had 4.88's but good luck finding that.
#44
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
now that's not right.
a 5 speed 4.0 xj will have 3.07 gears, MAYBE 3.55's if it's one in a million
an automatic 4.0 will have 3.55's, if you're lucky 3.73 with the tow package and MAYBE 3.07's if it's one in a million.
2.5 5 speed is 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, generally a 4.10 and one chance in a million that it's 3.55's
2.5 4 speed will have 3.55 or 3.73
2.5 auto will have 4.10, 4.56, and IIRC there are a select few that *may* have had 4.88's but good luck finding that.
a 5 speed 4.0 xj will have 3.07 gears, MAYBE 3.55's if it's one in a million
an automatic 4.0 will have 3.55's, if you're lucky 3.73 with the tow package and MAYBE 3.07's if it's one in a million.
2.5 5 speed is 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, generally a 4.10 and one chance in a million that it's 3.55's
2.5 4 speed will have 3.55 or 3.73
2.5 auto will have 4.10, 4.56, and IIRC there are a select few that *may* have had 4.88's but good luck finding that.
#45
yes. good luck finding one (and if you do you better be looking @ it for more than parts axles...at least let everyone else know where it is, or if u buy the whole thing then sell someone (like me) the rest of it...)
turbo diesel is 4.10 with a 5 speed, 4.56 with auto tho it's more common to be 4.10.
possible 4.88 with a 2.1 diesel, auto, non-tubro
...I've got an 86 MJ factory 2.1 turbo, ax5 5 speed, np207, 4x4, amc 20 rear. all original...and in dire need of a restore before it rusts apart.