black96xj

I'm new here and was wondering if any body could help me figure out the best and cheapest way to put a two inch lift on my 96 cherokee i have read that 96 and newer cherokee have problems with pinion angles when lifted with shackles

finneys98xj

spacer up front and shackles in back

black96xj

i've heard of people getting driveline vibes with a shackle because of the angle it puts the pinion at

black96xj

are blocks a bad idea

finneys98xj

Most people I have heard of love them just ask Mudd.

finneys98xj

Real bad idea!

black96xj

i really wanted to do the shackles in the first place but am real worried about vibes

blacksheep

Shackles are the better way to go, but blocks will get you where you want to be. 2" shackles won't change anything that bad. Blocks can give out in cornering, so I have heard, but I wouldn't think that 2" blocks would give you that much trouble. I have also heard that blocks can "S" your leaf springs. Again, I have never seen either of these actually happen, but this is why guys say to stay away from blocks. Shackles aren't that much more and should get you the result you want without all of the warnings.

black96xj

i guess i will just go ahead and order 2 inch shackles and the front spacers and see what happens

HeepSpeed

I think you should think about getting a 3'' lift. You'll probably eventually want 31'' tires with some clearance. Might as well save and spend later...(not true for all items but...) for a lift,

the magic numbers are 3-4 and 31 because it'll require no mods to the driveline from the research I've done.

Howler_GT

A 2" BB (budget-boost) "should" not give driveshaft vibes BUT every XJ is different.

I assume by your username that you have a 96. Lifted 1996-2001 XJ's are more prone to driveshaft vibes. With 2" BB these vibes IF they occur will be minimal but noticable.
They can be overcome by a simple TC drop (Transfer case drop)
TC drops are simply spacers between the transfer case cross-member and the unibody rail.

Many Cherokee owners that have these driveshaft vibes, use washers. Simple and cheap. Need more of a drop?...add more washers.

LIFT BLOCKS ARE EVIL

They magnify the torque of acceleration and direct it towards the front of the leaf spring causing them to accept forces they would not normally handle in everyday driving conditions. The inability of the leaf springs to handle these forces cause them to weaken and fail prematurely.
ALSO: If your XJ has a factory rear swaybar-->lift blocks will alter the height location of the endlink, and place it dangerously close to the tire itself. Less than 1/2" depending on rim/tire setup.

Many lifted XJ owners will say to toss the rear swaybar. BUT, if your Xj has its original rear leaf springs, it is best not to as the often weak rear leaf springs rely on the added stability the swaybar provides.
It would be up to the specific XJ owner to decide if they wish to remove the swaybar. But the vehicle should be taken for a short test-drive to determine the stability and driveability is acceptable or if the swaybar should be retained.

Wowsers. Almost sounds like I know what I am talking about

black96xj

it sounds to me that if i run into problems there will be a solution thanks for all the help

black96xj

i forgot to ask is the dana 35 more prone to driveline vibes?

Howler_GT

Its not so much the axle but the driveshaft.
Mainly the front slip-yolk and the angle of the shaft.

An increased angle causes the slip-yolk to bind slightly causing the vibes.
By decreasing the angle slightly by way of a TC drop these vibes are lessened or eliminated.

2" BB is "easy" on the angle change.
Anything like a 3-3.5" lift, the TC drop becomes less suitable for eliminating these vibes. Then a SYE (Slip-Yolk Eliminator) will have to be installed.
A SYE shortens the tailshaft of the TC and on most models of SYE use a driveshaft much like the front driveshaft.

There are several threads concerning SYE posted here on CF that can better explain the pros/cons of various SYE styles.