Tyler mackenzie

I am a new member but I’ve used the forum before and have been trying to troubleshoot for a long time now to no success. I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 automatic 336k kilometers. It ran fine and needed a head gasket so it started with that then I figured as I had it apart I would just replace a bunch of old worn out but still functional parts🤦🏻*♂️ Dumb idea. Anyway i added a comp cams cam comp can lifters and springs new valve rods new comp cam timing chain set new filters all around new header, distributor, ignition coil, basic plugs and wires(not platinum) and it just won’t start. I have compression of 100-120 psi, good spark ( I have a mad box on there tried with and without it) and fuel at the rail. Basically the only thing I have t changed is the injectors. And advice would be appreciated thanks.

PatHenry

The typical problem folks have after a distributor removal/replacement is that it is incorrectly indexed during the re-install.

Do a forum search and look for the detailed discussions and pictures and double check your distributor. I'd do that first and then start going thorough the standard "crank-no-start" troubleshooting checklist.

Tyler mackenzie

I will I’ll go try this now. I feel like I need to index the distributor

PatHenry

Yeah, I have no personal experience, but 4/5 times that someone posts a "crank no start" after the distributor was touched, it turns out to be indexed incorrectly. Good luck and don't forget to follow up if that's the problem.

Tyler mackenzie

I indexed it off tdc but still a no go, I found a video on youtube and followed. I would think it would do a little more if it was timing. it just cranks and maybe once in a while it sputters.

awg

the traditional next steps are to make sure the spark is good & strong enough..either with a spark tester ($5 tool) or observation ..ie should be blueish, not yellow

test fuel pressure with gauge at schrader valve

test injectors are firing by listening for click or noid lites

caged

and a lot of people think the timing is set by the distributor, it isn't. the map sensor sets that. you just need to have the dizzy installed absolutely dead nutz perfect. turning it while in the block won't do anything. these are not like your typical small blocks where you can set the timing this way.

it is a pain in the butt, but i know many have just had to remove the dizzy and reinstall it 180 degrees to where they had it before. you can still index the oil pump using a long screwdriver to get that lined up, in case you have that out of alignment.

good luck.

Tyler mackenzie

When you say dizzy do you mean distributor?

PatHenry

Yes. Dizzy = distributor.

PatHenry

Apparently, the "book" depiction of the distributor isn't accurate and the proper indexing is a hair off.

Review the instructions on Cruiser54.com - Cruiser was a chief mechanic for Jeep back in the 80's, so he is the expert among experts on the Jeep I6 engine.

Tyler mackenzie

If when I put the new timing set on and it was on the exhaust stroke of tdc and not the ignition stroke would that make me 360degrees off?

edit. I just now realized how dumb that sounds 😂

caged

no, you would be 180 off...

awg

if it is 180 off, you should be able to change the plug order to ascertain whether that is the issue..the motor should run wired up like that

4x4jeepmanthing

not quite, but it would be 360 of turning the crank into the ignition stroke for tdc. the rotor on the dizzy will only be 180 off until you do one more full turn of the crank. its quite easy to mess this up and still have everything installled 99% correct.

Tyler mackenzie

I took off the valve cover and made sure I was on tdc in the ignition stroke and it was and the distributor is also pointing to #1 I don’t know what’s happening with this thing. It’s getting towed to a shop tomorrow and I’ll update what it was when I get it back. Thanks for all of the help everyone and I learned a few things for sure