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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I wired up a switch to bypass the set/decel button. I wired it through the back of the clockspring, and it kind of works.
For some reason, I have to press the set/decel button, and then flip the switch on. Then, it holds the speed I want, but then it starts to sag and not really keep the speed. I know I have good vacuum and it doesn’t sag if I hold the set button, so I must’ve wired it wrong.
So, what I did with the switch was have the wire leading from the brown/red wire, which was the wire for the set/decel button, wired to the “on” position, and a ground wire leading to the “off” position of the switch. The way I understand how the cruise system operates is off of grounds, so it’s looking for a short to ground to know when to cruise, so that’s what i’m doing with the switch. But it seems I need to do more research because i’ve done something wrong if I have to hold the button down and then flip the switch, and have it not really cruise if the switch is on.
Will report back after more testing.
Oh and also, I at first had it wired up to the horn switch. It’s a black/red wire, and looks like the brown/red wire, so whenever I flipped the switch it sounded the horns.
Have you actually looked at the 95 FSM? It looks like the on/off is not a monetary switch, and it's supposed to toggle on/off. So having to hold it in means you either have the wrong switch or it's broken. With the switch on, it provides power to the resume/accel and set buttons which send the signal to the computer when pressed. It's not ground-based like you posted.
I think you might be thinking i’m having to hold down the power button. I know the power button is what provides the voltage to the set and resume switch, but according to the FSM you have to click the button once and it should set your speed or resume it.
My problem is having to hold down the set button, like the PCM can’t remember what the speed was if I let off the button. It would explain how I can’t resume my speed.
So, maybe to bypass that issue, i’ve wired a toggle switch to make the PCM think that’s the switch. I might have to do away with the switch on the bottom and wire up 2 switches, one for power to the set switch, and one to set my speed.
I’m wondering if I have the wrong clockspring somehow. I can’t find the connector that plugs into the clockspring, and the wires at the switch don’t line up with anything I can find. I guess i’ll have to look at a 96 FSM and see if I can find any other information, because the part numbers I was told to older came off of a 96, and in 96 the buttons were resistance based.
I think you might be thinking i’m having to hold down the power button. I know the power button is what provides the voltage to the set and resume switch, but according to the FSM you have to click the button once and it should set your speed or resume it.
My problem is having to hold down the set button, like the PCM can’t remember what the speed was if I let off the button. It would explain how I can’t resume my speed.
So, maybe to bypass that issue, i’ve wired a toggle switch to make the PCM think that’s the switch. I might have to do away with the switch on the bottom and wire up 2 switches, one for power to the set switch, and one to set my speed.
Gotcha. I suspect you've mis-wired the switch, and somehow gotten the power wire to the on/off switch swapped with wire for the set button.
Well, I ended up caving and i’m taking it to the dealer next Monday.
I talked to one of the guys back there in the shop, and he said it more than likely needs to be programmed to remember the speed i’m setting. It makes complete sense because by holding down the set button, it remembers what speed i’m at, but once I let go it completely forgets and looses the speed it was at, and if it’s not remembering what speed it was set too, it would explain why it won’t resume if I press the resume button.
He was kind enough to waive any charge if they can’t figure it out, and he also said if they have to replace anything or do anything other than the initial diag, he’ll waive the daig fee and just charge me for whatever it is they find wrong.
Im hoping and praying that the dealership will be able to figure this out. I’m pretty sure they have the DRBII scanner, and that’s what I need to actually see what the PCM is doing when i’m trying to cruise
Well, the dealership didn’t even have the right scantool to hook up to my Jeep. I mean the friggin dealership couldn’t even talk to my PCM.
And THEN they wanted to charge me for 5 hours of diagnostic to test circuits. I said no, and I got some velcro from Target and made it where the velcro holds the button down when I want it to.
I’m done messing with this. Whenever I get a scantool that can actually communicate with my PCM, i’ll figure it out.
Just thought to ask: the button you push and hold to make everything work as it should, is that a type of button that stays "in" or should be staying in but doesn't?
In the earlier post if I recall right you posted that you had removed the auto trans and installed a manual trans; if this true I think that the manual trans is shorter than the auto trans; if this is true and you used the auto speedometer cable assembly.
The auto cable may be making a tighter corner than it was designed to which may be causing it bind up than release even so slightly; Which is now confusing the speed controller with a very slight but not stable speed which is why it will not set.
This also may be why you may have notice the variance in your dash board speedometer when hitting a bump; but now the cable assembly was bouncing around which was increasing the friction between the cable and its protective cover its encased in; therefor it was causing greater variance at what speed the speedometer cable was rotating; therefore the variance was enough that it causes the speedometer to bounce.
In the earlier post if I recall right you posted that you had removed the auto trans and installed a manual trans; if this true I think that the manual trans is shorter than the auto trans; if this is true and you used the auto speedometer cable assembly.
The auto cable may be making a tighter corner than it was designed to which may be causing it bind up than release even so slightly; Which is now confusing the speed controller with a very slight but not stable speed which is why it will not set.
This also may be why you may have notice the variance in your dash board speedometer when hitting a bump; but now the cable assembly was bouncing around which was increasing the friction between the cable and its protective cover its encased in; therefor it was causing greater variance at what speed the speedometer cable was rotating; therefore the variance was enough that it causes the speedometer to bounce.
I think you misunderstood me. I have a manual trans and a manual PCM. I know I have manual PCM because I have an up shift light that I removed the bulb from.
I was touring around the idea of having to have an automatic PCM based off of one post who had the same symptoms as me, but on the 4.0.
What sucks is that I think the 2.5 PCM isn’t really programmed to have cruise control, because I don’t think any 2.5’s had factory cruise control, since the 2.5 was associated with the lower trims. Even though all of the wires and connectors are there, I just don’t think the PCM is remembering what speed is set unless the “set” button is held down.
And to the other guy, the “set” button is a momentary switch, so it should just be pressed once to engage the cruise control. The PCM is supposed to remember the speed it was last set at until the “on/off” button is clicked off. I can use the “accel” button if i’m holding down the “set” button, and it will accelerate by 3 MPH. That’s why I’m dead set on either a memory issue inside of the PCM, or the PCM is internally faulty.
If I can borrow the scantool the other guys have at the other shop, then I might be able to figure this out. Only problem is that they’re always using it, but I do know for a fact that it can communicate with my PCM because i’ve used it before to try and figure out a misfire that turned out to be a bent distributor rotor.
Im getting kind of burnt out with this issue, and the velcro setup seems to work 99% of when i’m cruising.
This implies there is a clutch switch for the manuals. https://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=300 Gives some troubleshooting by measuring at the PCM tooi
Do you have one? Speedometer and speed sensor working, because if it thinks you're under 35mph it won't stay engaged.
Tried finding a PCM from a 2.5 manual that had cruise? I posted a link earlier where one guy said he needed to swap PCMs to resolve the same symptom.
Something I noticed. 8H in the '95 FSM does show the controls on the steering wheel but 8W (wiring diagram above) says steering column. Doesn't that imply the earlier ones with the CC controls on the stalk?
For contrast, the 96 shows "VSS/Horn switches" which imply on the steering wheel.
Looking at the '95 PCM part numbers, I don't see anything to denote with or without CC.
05-14-2022, 07:56 PM
