Originally Posted by 77olds

I just dealt with this problem.

Bought a brand new (NOT refurbrished), complete head (meaning all valves and everything included) with a lifetime warranty from National Cylinder Head for $435 shipped. No up-front core charge, you have 30 days to return the old head in the same box the new one came in before they charge you for the core. They even include a shipping label!

One think you'll learn on engine jobs is that not everything actually has to be removed in order to do the job. The A/C compressor can be unbolted from the mount and then moved off to the side. Same with the power steering pump.

DEFINITELY replace the t-stat and gasket while you're at it.

Also look at your upper radiator hose - mine was getting a hole worn into it from resting on the A/C compressor mounting bolt, I never noticed until I started this job. Get a new one if needed.

The rear valve cover vent tube will probably break. If you don't want to buy a new one, it might actually be better to just cut it clean in half with a razor blade, then use a piece of rubber hose to put it back together. It's just a vent tube, you won't have a vacuum leak by using rubber hose as long as you use the right size. I did this to temporarily repair mine until I got the replacement tube and it worked just fine. I just didn't trust it to last.

Get a full gasket kit and use every bit of it. You obviously won't be removing the throttle body for this job, but it's only a few extra bolts so, why not? Replace the valve cover bolt grommets with the ones in the gasket kit. CLEAN YOUR GASKET SURFACES, this is incredibly important. Don't forget to clean the intake gasket surface.

Make sure you know proper bolt torque specs and tightening sequence, ESPECIALLY for the cylinder head. This isn't a suggestion, this is 1000000% REQUIRED.

You dno't have to unbolt the exhaust flanges, unbolting the manifold from the head and letting it hang is just fine - the exhaust hangers will flex enough that nothing will get damaged.

The rear lower exhaust manifold bolts can be reached with an extension. I put one arm under the manfold from the front to guide the socket onto the bolts. Sort of awkward but it worked.

Drain your cooling system first, it'll save the mess when you pull the head.

Wipe your cylinder walls down with engine oil, and squirt some into the lifters too. Don't worry about the smoke when it starts up, it'll burn off.

Might as well put new spark plugs in it while you're at it.

Don't forget to get that drive belt TIGHT. They don't like any slop, unlike most GM motors.

Originally Posted by travs2448

Thanks man, you to xj. i have the factory service manual from a 2000 xj. it shouldnt be any different for this for my 01 i cant imagine? Also i am replacing nearly every gasket i come into contact with on this, even the throttle body. Ordered all the parts this week and should be here to start this next weekend.

One thing i wanna do before i even take the head off is a nice cooling system flush. The coolant is that disghusting brownish color, so i wanna get all that crap outta there before it even comes in contact with the new head. so far all i've seen are those prestone kits but im wondering if theres a more "powerfull" way of doing?

Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty

A cap or two-ful of Cascade into the system oughta do it.