Roler

See the below Youtube, skip to 02:37 min in
Perfectly demonstrates the problem with measuring continuity and how a circuit can still function but is in an obvious waiting-to-fail state..

Griffyorcono

Well it has been awoken and in a little stumped.. All the codes are gone expect these.

12
35
33

I did a voltage drop test and found very good results, I tested the IAT, MAP and temp sensor they all lost no more than a .03 of a volt. Everything you guys told me to do seemed to work but I'm still getting to much fuel at 3000 and can't go over that rpm. It is weird though because it was better, not by a lot but things seemed better. Exhaust wasn't red hot this time but I didn't run it for very long and only ran it up to 3000 twice.

I'm thinking I need to swap out the original fuel injectors and replace the IAC since I'm getting a 35 code.

Completely stuck though, keep in mind I'm still sure it hasn't been caused by damage to the motor because it has done it since the moment I started it up the first time.

Griffyorcono

It was the timing lol....
You know that saying that if you didn't touch it it was never actually done...

Even the best machinist I know and he was off by a tooth lol, kind of disappointing. But guess what, this made me learn so much about my vehicle I'm glad the timing was off.

The Lord has his purpose.

doublechaz

So it's running all the way? That would be great!

For the oil, I"m a little confused on the sequence of events here. You posted a pic at one point of a couple gallons of frothy gunk in a bucket. If you disposed of that and filled with fresh oil and the stuff in this thread was after that, then I would do a correct oil level check, and check by feel and smell if that oil seems to be contaminated with gas. If it has the correct level now and did when you filled it (meaning very little volume of gas added) a small amount of gas will cook out on its own. That is part of why people say don't do lots of short trips. Getting the oil hot will push out any fuel from startup and any water from condensation inside the block. If OTOH, you see the dipstick showing higher than when you changed the oil (larger volume of gas) or if it really smells strong of gas or feels thinner than normal oil, change it again. I was thinking that the nasty bucket photo was from after the long run in detuned state and that it hasn't run much since then while testing. I expect the nasty bucket was mainly caused by running with the MAP vacuum line disconnected, if that works out to a true sequence of events and I didn't get confused between the different threads.

I haven't done this type of distributor (my Mopar just has a kinda flat screwdriver tip to drive it so either it's right or it is 180 out), but I've read about it a bunch and I know it is pretty tricky to get it on the right tooth. And as you said, we've all learned a lot with this job.

Griffyorcono

I didn't post any photos of any oil. I simply changed the oil and checked smell and consistency,must be another guy.
The guy I worked for when I was younger building boats always taught me to use my senses to understand mechanical aspects so those checks come natural to me every oil change.

Obviously being very critical of the oil I kept smelling it and then comparing that smell to gasoline and found that the smell was similar to the extent that each oil change I do is but it was far from the extreme **** up I could've caused of a gallon of gas in the oil. consistency was actually thicker which I thought was good because that means he used a plentiful amount of assembly lube.


Right now my goal is to continue to drive, which I don't think is unreasonable. Change spark plugs and check air to fuel periodically by checking the plug. Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator just incase I need to try and take back some amount of control of A/F because of my cam. Really though with how things are going and I think you will agree. If I have to get a MAP adjuster mod or adjustable fuel pressure regulator then something is still lickly wrong somewhere because of how close to stock I am and again may have damaged the motor to a point of no return.

I will keep you guys posted though. If in a year my motor has had zero issues this will be a true testament to how great of a first time vehicle this is for people like me want to learn everything there is to do in the world of mechanics but still have some room to seriously **** up lol.

doublechaz

Ok, I'm mixing up threads. You should be all set to monitor and drive since that was someone else with two gallons of some unknown slop in their pan. I guess the first rule of XJ club is....

Griffyorcono

Hahaha the first rule is check your damn grounds