Idle issue around 60 seconds??
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
Idle issue around 60 seconds??
Hey guys,
I seem to have a odd problem.. 98 4.0 i6. The jeep starts up fine, idles fine for about 45-60 secs and then she wants to fall her face but never does. If i give some gas as its happening the problem goes away. Wont happen again till next start up.
IMO it would seem to be around the time my system goes from open loop, to closed loop.(o2 sensor) Ive checked the ECU after warm up and my scanner shows my o2 sensor at closed loop.. Haven't checked prier to stumble yet though ill do that today. I do have a couple trouble codes but i dont think these would cause this problem. (1) VSS no output( No speedo gear) and (2) P0138 Downstream o2 sensor (Not installed because i don't have a muffler or cat, open down pipe, temporary)
Any ideas? Its not a big issue but i would like to solve it so i dont have to worry about it later on.
Another Question, Would my IAC cause this? During startup first 15-20 sec. it revs high (around 950) then slowly comes down to idle, about 20 secs after the idle set at around 750 it stumbles.
Upgrades:
Ford #19 injectors (yellow stick)
Pacesetter headers
Complete a/c Delete
Cruise Control Delete
New alternator
Big 3 wire upgrade
NO exhaust (Temporary)
Fuel Pump and Filter
Oil and filter (Both Engine and Trans)
Replaced Shift Solenoids
Cant remember anything else as of now...... Ideas??
I seem to have a odd problem.. 98 4.0 i6. The jeep starts up fine, idles fine for about 45-60 secs and then she wants to fall her face but never does. If i give some gas as its happening the problem goes away. Wont happen again till next start up.
IMO it would seem to be around the time my system goes from open loop, to closed loop.(o2 sensor) Ive checked the ECU after warm up and my scanner shows my o2 sensor at closed loop.. Haven't checked prier to stumble yet though ill do that today. I do have a couple trouble codes but i dont think these would cause this problem. (1) VSS no output( No speedo gear) and (2) P0138 Downstream o2 sensor (Not installed because i don't have a muffler or cat, open down pipe, temporary)
Any ideas? Its not a big issue but i would like to solve it so i dont have to worry about it later on.
Another Question, Would my IAC cause this? During startup first 15-20 sec. it revs high (around 950) then slowly comes down to idle, about 20 secs after the idle set at around 750 it stumbles.
Upgrades:
Ford #19 injectors (yellow stick)
Pacesetter headers
Complete a/c Delete
Cruise Control Delete
New alternator
Big 3 wire upgrade
NO exhaust (Temporary)
Fuel Pump and Filter
Oil and filter (Both Engine and Trans)
Replaced Shift Solenoids
Cant remember anything else as of now...... Ideas??
Its a heated sensor, if thats makes any difference. But According to my factory gauge as well as my scanner the Temp Sensor reads normal at all times.. From cold start to operating temp.. I eliminated this factor due to correct coolant readings..
Heated oxygen sensors have an internal heater circuit that brings the sensor up to operating temperature more quickly than an unheated sensor. An oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650 degrees F) before it will generate a voltage signal. The hot exhaust from the engine will provide enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it make take several minutes depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback control system remains in "open loop" and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.
By adding an internal heater circuit to the oxygen sensor, voltage can be routed through the heater as soon as the engine starts to warm up the sensor. The heater element is a resistor that glows red hot when current passes through it. The heater will bring the sensor up to operating temperature within 20 to 60 seconds depending on the sensor, and also keep the oxygen sensor hot even when the engine is idling for a long period of time.
Heated oxygen sensors have an internal heater circuit that brings the sensor up to operating temperature more quickly than an unheated sensor. An oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 to 650 degrees F) before it will generate a voltage signal. The hot exhaust from the engine will provide enough heat to bring an O2 sensor up to operating temperature, but it make take several minutes depending on ambient temperature, engine load and speed. During this time, the fuel feedback control system remains in "open loop" and does not use the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel mixture. This typically results in a rich fuel mixture, wasted fuel and higher emissions.
By adding an internal heater circuit to the oxygen sensor, voltage can be routed through the heater as soon as the engine starts to warm up the sensor. The heater element is a resistor that glows red hot when current passes through it. The heater will bring the sensor up to operating temperature within 20 to 60 seconds depending on the sensor, and also keep the oxygen sensor hot even when the engine is idling for a long period of time.
Ok this is where im at, Ideas??
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
HEy guys, yes i did clean the whole throttle body and each part connected to it. I guess i can say im **** about clean things.. As far as o2 sensor goes, it works fine.. I did have to extend the wires a bit after i put the new headers and down pipe in so maybe theres a problem there.. I took a vid so you guys can see whats happening..
From what i see, My o2 sensor is working properly. The same time my jeep goes from open to closed is when i encounter this stumble.. and all it takes to get back to normal idle is just a tap on the gas. My idle sits nicely at around 750 give or take a few.
Would back pressure have anything to do with this?? I question because i dont have a muffler. just open down pipe..
Heres the vid:
From what i see, My o2 sensor is working properly. The same time my jeep goes from open to closed is when i encounter this stumble.. and all it takes to get back to normal idle is just a tap on the gas. My idle sits nicely at around 750 give or take a few.
Would back pressure have anything to do with this?? I question because i dont have a muffler. just open down pipe..
Heres the vid:
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#8
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
by movung the o2 back it might be takeing it longer to warm up now causing the higher idle it telling the ecm the motor is cold yet and giving it more fuel
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
Its a heated sensor, it doesnt require the exhaust temp to reach a certain point.. nor the coolant temp to be at operating temp before it goes closed loop. I can put my hand behind my downpipe and hold there for a good time before it starts to get hot and it never gets to the point of **** thats hot. And on my first post i pulled some info on heated sensors and it says that it take between 45-60 sec to reach temp. And thats when im getting this problem.
When the car is warmed up and i shut her down and restart, it doesnt happen, only when its a cold start or after its sat for 30 min. Im starting to lean towards back pressure since at that point of being rich to lean is when it happens.. Rich generates more gases which create back pressure in the down pipe and then once lean it loses all that..
If i start driving when its in open loop its ok, then at the same 60 sec. it goes lean and feels like a fuel delivery problem.. it spits and jerks, etc..
When the car is warmed up and i shut her down and restart, it doesnt happen, only when its a cold start or after its sat for 30 min. Im starting to lean towards back pressure since at that point of being rich to lean is when it happens.. Rich generates more gases which create back pressure in the down pipe and then once lean it loses all that..
If i start driving when its in open loop its ok, then at the same 60 sec. it goes lean and feels like a fuel delivery problem.. it spits and jerks, etc..
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
JUst a tap on the skinny pedal fixes it until next cold start.. No codes other than the previously stated ones.. VSS and downstream o2
I just rewatched the video and at exactly 1 min it starts stumbling...
I just rewatched the video and at exactly 1 min it starts stumbling...
Last edited by 98jeepsrt6; 11-30-2010 at 12:07 PM.
#11
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 1
From: calabash, nc
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 96 4.0l H.O.
mines doing the same thing mine was the map sensor it didnt throw a code till i unplugged it to clean it if you have the diagnostic scan tool that you can watch the voltage of sensors mine reads like .24 when its plugged up but if you unplug it ruff idle goes away it reads like .68
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
mines doing the same thing mine was the map sensor it didnt throw a code till i unplugged it to clean it if you have the diagnostic scan tool that you can watch the voltage of sensors mine reads like .24 when its plugged up but if you unplug it ruff idle goes away it reads like .68
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