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Ignition switch wiring

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Old 05-14-2019 | 01:50 PM
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Year: 1988
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Default Ignition switch wiring

The front windshield wipers have quit working on my 88 xj. After doing some research it seemed the most likely culprit is my ignition switch as other accessories that run through this same switch are also not working (horn, front blinkers, rear wipers, light behind heater display). After dropping the steering column I removed my ignition switch, which appears to be okay. I am assuming the previous owner changed out the switch without bothering to put new connecters on. While I was wiggling the switch out of its place on the steering column the red and brown wires came completely out of the plugs. Both plugs look burnt up but I can't seem to find new ones at any of my local parts stores. I also can't find a wiring diagram for the brown and black clips that all the wires go into. Does the brown wire go in one of the two open middle ports on the blue housing? Where does the red wire attach?

Thanks in advance,
Lucas


Old 05-14-2019 | 03:59 PM
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If you go to rock auto you can find new plugs with wiring .
Old 05-15-2019 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tech
If you go to rock auto you can find new plugs with wiring .

NAPA also. Same as GM since Moby Dick was a minnow.

And do this:

IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE

On 87 to 90 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps.

So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!!

What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely.

Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit.

Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector.

Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this.

Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first.

Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.


Old 05-15-2019 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
NAPA also. Same as GM since Moby Dick was a minnow.

And do this:


CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE

NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 24 COMMENTS EDIT
On 87 to 90 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps.

So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!!

What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely.

Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit.

Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector.

Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this.

Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first.

Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.


Thanks for all the info. I will refresh the grounds and replace the plugs today as I need this car to run since it's my daily driver. If I buy the plug that attaches to the ignition switch will it come with a wiring diagram? I still am unsure of where the brown and red wires should attach to ignition switch.
Old 05-15-2019 | 04:59 PM
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I got the new connector and refreshed the factory ground plus added the ground on the passenger side panel. My wipers and front turn signals still do not work. Any other ideas of where to look next?
Old 05-15-2019 | 07:24 PM
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Rear signals work?

These 2 problems may not be related.

Got power at the blower motor connector in the engine bay with the switch on? ?
Old 05-15-2019 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Rear signals work?

These 2 problems may not be related.

Got power at the blower motor connector in the engine bay with the switch on? ?
Yes, the rear signals work and the front do not.

I found the problem with the front wipers. I could hear the motor trying to spin so I opened up the cowling on the hood to access the motor itself. Turns out one of the bolts had backed out and got stuck between the actuator arm and the threaded hole where it belongs.



So, although the antifreeze sprayer hose T broke and I will have to get a new one, the front wipers are working again (or will be once I put it all back together).

After finding the issue with the front wipers I decided to take apart the back wiper motor to see what the issue was with it. It felt very hot to the touch when I first went to take it out. After taking it out, taking off the faceplate, and plugging it back in to power the motor ran for about 30 seconds then abruptly stopped. I think the motor is burnt out, but I'd like a second opinion before I order a new one or spend the time getting one from a junkyard. Previously it would either not work, or run for a couple of minutes then quit.

What do you all think?
Old 05-15-2019 | 10:02 PM
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I think you're doing a great job!!

Look at Tip 3 at www.cruiser54.com and note the front lighting connector featured there.
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