I'm about to take this Jeep to THE SCRAP YARD!!
#46
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Even if it functions the same, the rear disc conversion still offers the advantage of simplicity for those who despise drum brakes. I suspect there are a few here who fall into that category.
#47
CF Veteran
Honestly, I can't stop staring at it. Might make it my wallpaper!
I fall into that category, lol. Plus they offer the advantage of easier clean-off of dirt and mud, etc. I went mudding in my old Ranger with drums, and I was ignorant back then but my drums held mud for long enough of a time to destroy my axle seals. lol
I fall into that category, lol. Plus they offer the advantage of easier clean-off of dirt and mud, etc. I went mudding in my old Ranger with drums, and I was ignorant back then but my drums held mud for long enough of a time to destroy my axle seals. lol
I live in California, we don't have real mud. Not the kind of mud you can get buried in, anyway, so I'll likely never have to worry about packing up my drums on the trails I drive.
91Jeep_Man, I'll be around tomorrow and will help if I can. I'll keep an eye on the thread.
#48
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hi Jeff! I forked out $70 and can control my ride higthtth. Air shocks. Sucks, seems a shock "amplifier" as opposed to absorbers. Anyway the old thing has it's **** up, even with a trailer.
I put the filler for the air-shocks up through the floor in the corner behind the spare.
Pushen 300 K witth the body cracken both around the hatch and forward of the hinges top of rear doors frsames. Anyway parked right the hatch hits the tail light lens.
Real springs and shocks might have prevented the dammage to the uniboty.
I put the filler for the air-shocks up through the floor in the corner behind the spare.
Pushen 300 K witth the body cracken both around the hatch and forward of the hinges top of rear doors frsames. Anyway parked right the hatch hits the tail light lens.
Real springs and shocks might have prevented the dammage to the uniboty.
#50
CF Veteran
Hi Jeff! I forked out $70 and can control my ride higthtth. Air shocks. Sucks, seems a shock "amplifier" as opposed to absorbers. Anyway the old thing has it's **** up, even with a trailer.
I put the filler for the air-shocks up through the floor in the corner behind the spare.
Pushen 300 K witth the body cracken both around the hatch and forward of the hinges top of rear doors frsames. Anyway parked right the hatch hits the tail light lens.
Real springs and shocks might have prevented the dammage to the uniboty.
I put the filler for the air-shocks up through the floor in the corner behind the spare.
Pushen 300 K witth the body cracken both around the hatch and forward of the hinges top of rear doors frsames. Anyway parked right the hatch hits the tail light lens.
Real springs and shocks might have prevented the dammage to the uniboty.
That's what he gets for going to bed, LOL. I'm sure he won't mind, I'll help him out with his brake issue to make up for our rudeness.
It was this one...
I've also seen it used on a facebook XJ group (run by someone from CF) but when I mentioned that I was the author they were very gracious and credited me in the photo caption.
#51
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey! too cool! Looks like it's gettn' ready to "take the plunge" in to laKe Taho! Yea the air shocks hold it up....we have REALLY mean washboard on a steep grade here, it really put's the rattle to things.
Having good springs and shocks that dampened both the up, as well as the down I think would be better than just the air>up I have.
(I tried to post a .mov file, nix on that!)
Having good springs and shocks that dampened both the up, as well as the down I think would be better than just the air>up I have.
(I tried to post a .mov file, nix on that!)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-14-2013 at 02:21 AM.
#52
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Location: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
You people are hijacking my thread!!!
Lol, just kidding.
The pics are from the passenger side. Shoes are installed properly with larger surface area trailing and shorter surface area leading. Primary springs have plenty of spring left to them.. had to fight them with a pair of channel locks. The adjuster is all the way in. The ebrake lever arm did hang back behind the shoe before I put it in place. It didn't seem to fight me at all or have any tension.
I can say I have noticed the shoes do NOT stay centered when I put the drum on. It appears as though the drum going over the wheel studs and axle requires the shoes to be pushed to the right slightly.
Put me in the "drums are the spawn of Satan" category. I hate them.
Lol, just kidding.
The pics are from the passenger side. Shoes are installed properly with larger surface area trailing and shorter surface area leading. Primary springs have plenty of spring left to them.. had to fight them with a pair of channel locks. The adjuster is all the way in. The ebrake lever arm did hang back behind the shoe before I put it in place. It didn't seem to fight me at all or have any tension.
I can say I have noticed the shoes do NOT stay centered when I put the drum on. It appears as though the drum going over the wheel studs and axle requires the shoes to be pushed to the right slightly.
Put me in the "drums are the spawn of Satan" category. I hate them.
#56
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Folks real quick dumb question...
Can out of adjustment drum brakes (as in star adjuster too loose) cause vibration at higher speeds? Because after lifting the tail end up, I can spin the 'trouble' side tire with relative ease...
Can out of adjustment drum brakes (as in star adjuster too loose) cause vibration at higher speeds? Because after lifting the tail end up, I can spin the 'trouble' side tire with relative ease...
#58
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
So I can verify that the drums now appear to be loose. They slide off the shoes with ease and I can spin them forward and backwards relatively 'easy' and when turned they do not immediately grab and stop. Spinning one shoe however seems to make the other shoe unless secured come off the studs. I have both drums bolted down and can still spin them.
So with that said, can loose drums that havent been adjusted cause vibration at speed? Idk how the passenger one seems to have just fixed itself... but its 10x better than last weekend when I could barely turn it at all.
So with that said, can loose drums that havent been adjusted cause vibration at speed? Idk how the passenger one seems to have just fixed itself... but its 10x better than last weekend when I could barely turn it at all.
#59
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Bearing must be good. No noise when turning and the wheel cannot be grabbed and moved vertically or horizontally.
#60
CF Veteran
I always recommend replacing the springs. Repeated heat cycles cause the spring material to degrade and, despite the apparent crudeness of drum brake systems, those springs are made at a specific tension required for the brakes to work properly. It's impossible to "gauge" how good a spring is by pulling on it with a pair of Channel Locks.