I'm going to a dealer :(
#31
I checked the distributor and it seemed fine put everthing back and started it up I think I put the spark plug wires in the wrong spots. I know they go around the outside but I am only getting engine while I press down on the gas and firing seems off.
UPDATE!
SUCCESS... sort of... I guess being trapped in a freezing cold garage with only a tiny space heater to keep you warm really gets the brain working. So there was a little black corrosion on the distributor, I scraped it off, put the wires back on properly and cranked over the engine. It started, and didn't die, I almost cried. I pulled off of the driveway and it didn't die. In-fact it idles rather well, however I still have a check engine light. I ran a scan and it now says "Throttle/Pedal Sensor Voltage Too High". Also although it idles well and hasn't died all the way home it takes 3000 to 4000 RPM before it will shift gears. At first I thought I put the throttle sensor in wrong, but the error code even happens when its at idle so I'm thinking possibly the ECU isn't recognizing the new sensor thus throwing the RPMs off by almost 2000 too high. Sound about right?
Also.... my fuel pump is making really loud whining, and its new. I stopped and my car smelled of burnt plastic near my rear breaks/gas tank, I hope its not my fuel pump :|
UPDATE!
SUCCESS... sort of... I guess being trapped in a freezing cold garage with only a tiny space heater to keep you warm really gets the brain working. So there was a little black corrosion on the distributor, I scraped it off, put the wires back on properly and cranked over the engine. It started, and didn't die, I almost cried. I pulled off of the driveway and it didn't die. In-fact it idles rather well, however I still have a check engine light. I ran a scan and it now says "Throttle/Pedal Sensor Voltage Too High". Also although it idles well and hasn't died all the way home it takes 3000 to 4000 RPM before it will shift gears. At first I thought I put the throttle sensor in wrong, but the error code even happens when its at idle so I'm thinking possibly the ECU isn't recognizing the new sensor thus throwing the RPMs off by almost 2000 too high. Sound about right?
Also.... my fuel pump is making really loud whining, and its new. I stopped and my car smelled of burnt plastic near my rear breaks/gas tank, I hope its not my fuel pump :|
Last edited by RedFang; 11-26-2010 at 05:48 AM.
#33
If he has the 3 speed chrysler trans then you are correct.
From Alldata-----
The AW-4 is a four speed, electronically controlled automatic transmission, Fig. 1, that incorporates a lock-up torque converter, three planetary gearsets, clutch and brake units, hydraulic accumulators and a valve body controlled by electrical solenoids and a Transmission Computer Unit (TCU) . Vehicle speed and throttle position are monitored by the TCU, which then appropriately adjusts the valve body solenoids.
Last edited by repair; 11-26-2010 at 08:32 AM.
#34
Well sadly this morning the jeep just gave me the same problems. So I limped it to the dealer $99.95 to run the diagnostics. I will find out early this week what the damages are, but oddly my dad said he would help me with the costs and the dealer said since im military he would give me discounts as well. sad I am
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
Hey man, just read through your whole thread, sorry to hear about all your problems, and sorry again that you had to take it over to a STEALership, good luck with that...
#36
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: Middlesex County CT
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O
Going by my experience working on various vehicles and your symptom descriptions you have an electrical problem.
If the dealer can't fix it go buy a can of CRC electrical cleaner and a small toothbrush sized wire brush.
Remove the battery and go to town spraying and brushing every single electrical connection you can find throughout the entire Jeep. I mean EVERYTHING. If it has a wire attached to it clean the connector.
I have an 88 Jeep Comanche that did not run when I got it. Turns out the CPS electrical connector was full of corrosion. I sprayed it with CRC and cleaned it and now it runs like a champ.
If the dealer can't fix it go buy a can of CRC electrical cleaner and a small toothbrush sized wire brush.
Remove the battery and go to town spraying and brushing every single electrical connection you can find throughout the entire Jeep. I mean EVERYTHING. If it has a wire attached to it clean the connector.
I have an 88 Jeep Comanche that did not run when I got it. Turns out the CPS electrical connector was full of corrosion. I sprayed it with CRC and cleaned it and now it runs like a champ.
Last edited by G_P; 11-26-2010 at 08:22 PM.
#37
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Carver, Ma.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes this does sound electrical, the grounds from the battery and alternator and starter get caroded at the block ground connection. Clean them up and tighten the bolts and you would be amazed. as for the trouble code disconnect your battery and it will reset.
#38
Well I got my Jeep back from the dealer today, and it runs well, starts every time and idles nicely just under 1000 rpms, like before.
The Tech wrote "Found Bad Ground in Engine Wiring." He also changed out my battery terminal connections because they were bad, which I actually told him about, figured I would let him do that while he was at it. He also capped a vacuum line and didn't write it down as a charge.
I am too tired from work and driving the long road home to trace which ground it was, but I will find out tomorrow and let you all know. I was so tired I almost got a speeding ticket for going 3 over, he said 10 but I told him he was wrong, >.> he let me go didn't even give me a warning ticket, just told me to be safe. Needless to say I drove very very slowly all the rest of the way home.
I noticed one thing is most of the time I take a right hand turn the low washer fluid light flickers on. I checked... I don't have low washer fluid :P. So perhaps I have a ground issue there too, but at least it's not engine critical, just annoying.
All in all I say at least this dealership, I don't feel that I got gouged for the prices. I thought I was going to have to pay $600 plus but it was half that, and to be honest I rather someone with a little more knowledge go wire hunting. I needed the jeep so I can go to Vegas this weekend, and now I can .
The Tech wrote "Found Bad Ground in Engine Wiring." He also changed out my battery terminal connections because they were bad, which I actually told him about, figured I would let him do that while he was at it. He also capped a vacuum line and didn't write it down as a charge.
I am too tired from work and driving the long road home to trace which ground it was, but I will find out tomorrow and let you all know. I was so tired I almost got a speeding ticket for going 3 over, he said 10 but I told him he was wrong, >.> he let me go didn't even give me a warning ticket, just told me to be safe. Needless to say I drove very very slowly all the rest of the way home.
I noticed one thing is most of the time I take a right hand turn the low washer fluid light flickers on. I checked... I don't have low washer fluid :P. So perhaps I have a ground issue there too, but at least it's not engine critical, just annoying.
All in all I say at least this dealership, I don't feel that I got gouged for the prices. I thought I was going to have to pay $600 plus but it was half that, and to be honest I rather someone with a little more knowledge go wire hunting. I needed the jeep so I can go to Vegas this weekend, and now I can .
#39
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Glad to hear you got your rig going again! You got off lucky taking it to the dealership. My washer light came on all the time too when it was just 3/4 full. It was just from sloshing in the tank, so I just unplugged the sensor.
Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
#41
Glad to hear you got your rig going again! You got off lucky taking it to the dealership. My washer light came on all the time too when it was just 3/4 full. It was just from sloshing in the tank, so I just unplugged the sensor.
Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
#43
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 21
From: Herndon, VA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#45
Have some hope man, I bet by Saturday, maybe Friday, you'll have this figured out. Theres some smart guys on this board and between all of us, we've seen it all and done it all..some of us have done too much... I'm not one of the sharpest knives, but I like to help where I can, because this forum has steered me in the right direction on numerous occasions and saved me TONS of $$$$.
First, we need a better description on whats going on and what you've done so far..
Is it still dying when its under half a tank?
So your sending unit and pump assembly are working properly?
What sensor and what shift control did you lose when you went offroad?, whats it doing now? we need details..
Cracked vacuum lines? Where are they? What are they for? did you fix them?
Engine dies? when its warm, when its cold, when your driving, randomly..what? any symptoms leading up to it dying(bogs down, sputters etc.)
We can help you track down vacuum leaks but we need details. have you checked for vacuum leaks at the manifold? Maybe you just need to re install your intake. Have you blocked off vacuum lines for the HVAC system to see how it runs?
We can help you track down parts too if thats a concern.. hang in there bud.
First, we need a better description on whats going on and what you've done so far..
Is it still dying when its under half a tank?
So your sending unit and pump assembly are working properly?
What sensor and what shift control did you lose when you went offroad?, whats it doing now? we need details..
Cracked vacuum lines? Where are they? What are they for? did you fix them?
Engine dies? when its warm, when its cold, when your driving, randomly..what? any symptoms leading up to it dying(bogs down, sputters etc.)
We can help you track down vacuum leaks but we need details. have you checked for vacuum leaks at the manifold? Maybe you just need to re install your intake. Have you blocked off vacuum lines for the HVAC system to see how it runs?
We can help you track down parts too if thats a concern.. hang in there bud.