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I'm going to a dealer :(

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Old 11-26-2010 | 04:38 AM
  #31  
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I checked the distributor and it seemed fine put everthing back and started it up I think I put the spark plug wires in the wrong spots. I know they go around the outside but I am only getting engine while I press down on the gas and firing seems off.

UPDATE!

SUCCESS... sort of... I guess being trapped in a freezing cold garage with only a tiny space heater to keep you warm really gets the brain working. So there was a little black corrosion on the distributor, I scraped it off, put the wires back on properly and cranked over the engine. It started, and didn't die, I almost cried. I pulled off of the driveway and it didn't die. In-fact it idles rather well, however I still have a check engine light. I ran a scan and it now says "Throttle/Pedal Sensor Voltage Too High". Also although it idles well and hasn't died all the way home it takes 3000 to 4000 RPM before it will shift gears. At first I thought I put the throttle sensor in wrong, but the error code even happens when its at idle so I'm thinking possibly the ECU isn't recognizing the new sensor thus throwing the RPMs off by almost 2000 too high. Sound about right?

Also.... my fuel pump is making really loud whining, and its new. I stopped and my car smelled of burnt plastic near my rear breaks/gas tank, I hope its not my fuel pump :|

Last edited by RedFang; 11-26-2010 at 05:48 AM.
Old 11-26-2010 | 06:02 AM
  #32  
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the tps code could have something to do with the shifting prob not sure and the deten cable controls shift patterns
Old 11-26-2010 | 08:28 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the tps code could have something to do with the shifting prob not sure and the deten cable controls shift patterns
the AW-4 relys on TPS for shift timing....the throttle cable controls pressure rise in the transmission and can only affect when and how hard it shifts does not control the actual shift timing.

If he has the 3 speed chrysler trans then you are correct.

From Alldata-----

The AW-4 is a four speed, electronically controlled automatic transmission, Fig. 1, that incorporates a lock-up torque converter, three planetary gearsets, clutch and brake units, hydraulic accumulators and a valve body controlled by electrical solenoids and a Transmission Computer Unit (TCU) . Vehicle speed and throttle position are monitored by the TCU, which then appropriately adjusts the valve body solenoids.

Last edited by repair; 11-26-2010 at 08:32 AM.
Old 11-26-2010 | 07:57 PM
  #34  
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Well sadly this morning the jeep just gave me the same problems. So I limped it to the dealer $99.95 to run the diagnostics. I will find out early this week what the damages are, but oddly my dad said he would help me with the costs and the dealer said since im military he would give me discounts as well. sad I am
Old 11-26-2010 | 08:11 PM
  #35  
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Hey man, just read through your whole thread, sorry to hear about all your problems, and sorry again that you had to take it over to a STEALership, good luck with that...
Old 11-26-2010 | 08:17 PM
  #36  
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Going by my experience working on various vehicles and your symptom descriptions you have an electrical problem.

If the dealer can't fix it go buy a can of CRC electrical cleaner and a small toothbrush sized wire brush.

Remove the battery and go to town spraying and brushing every single electrical connection you can find throughout the entire Jeep. I mean EVERYTHING. If it has a wire attached to it clean the connector.

I have an 88 Jeep Comanche that did not run when I got it. Turns out the CPS electrical connector was full of corrosion. I sprayed it with CRC and cleaned it and now it runs like a champ.

Last edited by G_P; 11-26-2010 at 08:22 PM.
Old 11-27-2010 | 11:54 AM
  #37  
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Yes this does sound electrical, the grounds from the battery and alternator and starter get caroded at the block ground connection. Clean them up and tighten the bolts and you would be amazed. as for the trouble code disconnect your battery and it will reset.
Old 11-29-2010 | 11:55 PM
  #38  
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Well I got my Jeep back from the dealer today, and it runs well, starts every time and idles nicely just under 1000 rpms, like before.

The Tech wrote "Found Bad Ground in Engine Wiring." He also changed out my battery terminal connections because they were bad, which I actually told him about, figured I would let him do that while he was at it. He also capped a vacuum line and didn't write it down as a charge.

I am too tired from work and driving the long road home to trace which ground it was, but I will find out tomorrow and let you all know. I was so tired I almost got a speeding ticket for going 3 over, he said 10 but I told him he was wrong, >.> he let me go didn't even give me a warning ticket, just told me to be safe. Needless to say I drove very very slowly all the rest of the way home.

I noticed one thing is most of the time I take a right hand turn the low washer fluid light flickers on. I checked... I don't have low washer fluid :P. So perhaps I have a ground issue there too, but at least it's not engine critical, just annoying.

All in all I say at least this dealership, I don't feel that I got gouged for the prices. I thought I was going to have to pay $600 plus but it was half that, and to be honest I rather someone with a little more knowledge go wire hunting. I needed the jeep so I can go to Vegas this weekend, and now I can .
Old 11-30-2010 | 12:11 AM
  #39  
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Glad to hear you got your rig going again! You got off lucky taking it to the dealership. My washer light came on all the time too when it was just 3/4 full. It was just from sloshing in the tank, so I just unplugged the sensor.

Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
Old 11-30-2010 | 12:15 AM
  #40  
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kool just dont let that low washer fluid drive you nuts
Old 11-30-2010 | 12:32 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by EVcherokee
Glad to hear you got your rig going again! You got off lucky taking it to the dealership. My washer light came on all the time too when it was just 3/4 full. It was just from sloshing in the tank, so I just unplugged the sensor.

Any problems in the future we're here for ya bud! Have fun in Vegas!
Yeah I was just going to unplug the sensor, does anyone know where I can find the bolts that are used to mount the Throttle Position Sensor to the Throttle Body? I had to cut the head off of one that stripped off, and I wanted to get two new ones. >.> I was considered getting a higher performance Throttle Body, but at the least I will need those bolts because the new Throttle Body says use original sensor hardware.
Old 11-30-2010 | 12:35 AM
  #42  
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small hardware store or jy 5finger discount. who said that not me lol
Old 11-30-2010 | 10:22 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
small hardware store or jy 5finger discount. who said that not me lol
Ha, if you leave a JY without a few bolts and nuts in your pockets you're cheating yourself.
Old 11-30-2010 | 06:09 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by robertj
Ha, if you leave a JY without a few bolts and nuts in your pockets you're cheating yourself.
Old 12-15-2017 | 07:14 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by EVcherokee
Have some hope man, I bet by Saturday, maybe Friday, you'll have this figured out. Theres some smart guys on this board and between all of us, we've seen it all and done it all..some of us have done too much... I'm not one of the sharpest knives, but I like to help where I can, because this forum has steered me in the right direction on numerous occasions and saved me TONS of $$$$.

First, we need a better description on whats going on and what you've done so far..

Is it still dying when its under half a tank?

So your sending unit and pump assembly are working properly?

What sensor and what shift control did you lose when you went offroad?, whats it doing now? we need details..

Cracked vacuum lines? Where are they? What are they for? did you fix them?

Engine dies? when its warm, when its cold, when your driving, randomly..what? any symptoms leading up to it dying(bogs down, sputters etc.)

We can help you track down vacuum leaks but we need details. have you checked for vacuum leaks at the manifold? Maybe you just need to re install your intake. Have you blocked off vacuum lines for the HVAC system to see how it runs?

We can help you track down parts too if thats a concern.. hang in there bud.
I apologize for jumping in here, since I have no answer for the problem presented, but I don't know what else to do. I just this evening joined the forum, and for the life of me, I can't find where to start a thread. I'm sure you and others are indeed here to help, so I'll tell you my problem and perhaps you can direct me as to what to do to get help with it. I have a '92 Cherokee, 4.0, 4wd and for some strange reason there are times when I start out with it and the speedometer doesn't register. Other times it does. The worst problem is that when it isn't registering, the engine will die when I push in the clutch (like coming up to stop sign). It will start right back up and it seems to run fine going down the road. This will never happen if the speedometer is working, however. If someone can shed light on this or at least tell me where to ask of this problem, I would surely appreciate it.


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