Alright....so there's a not on it, but then, if it's welded in place and a nut is on the other side of that box - then how are you supposed to replace them?

And no, I have a set of 4 new bolts (mopar) that I got when I was in the US.

So, you opened that box with the cutoff wheel and then loosened the nut on the other side and then what? It's still welded or did you do something else to it?

 

I didn't read the entire post, but if you're having trouble loosing the bolt from the nut it is assumed that the nut has broken free of the frame- meaning it's not welded on anymore. If you're cutting something open so you can put a wrench on the nut, be sure to mount the springs back up and then weld the new nut in place. Take the bolt back out and coat the **** out of that thing with some anti-sieze. Then put the bolt back in, spray the nut side with some paint, then weld up the hole you cut to get to it.

After going back and reading everything it sounds like you're almost down to cutting the nut out. If the orginal nut survives the rest of the process of removing the old bolt remains it should be in good enough condition to re-torque a bolt to it.

 

I'm just guessing here, but from what he's posted, the nut is still welded in there. Otherwise the remaining portion would have just fallen inside or be rattling around in the hole. I would continue to drill out the bolt and try to get it out of the threads and re-use the nut that's there, and save cutting anything up as a last resort. Just my pair of Lincolns. OP, if the nut does break free, or shows any signs of doing so, then I would look into cutting an access hole, chiseling any of the remaining nut free, and replacing the nut through the access hole. Welding a new nut in there would be your call at that point, but it sounds like you have limited options. I would just put a nut/washer combo back in there if it were me at that point, torque to spec and call it good. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

When you open the box youll need to cut the nut free. However you do it is up to you. It SHOULD only be tacked. Mine was tacked twice, once on opposing sides of the nut. Use a wrench and twist it, a sawsall, a BFH and a chisel, etc. You gotta get creative sometimes. This is one that Chrysler really didn't think through. Its a TERRIBLE design but thanks to people with ingenuity this is a pretty straight forward fix. Cut it open, remove old nut, replace, drive.

 

That's an AMC design, not Chrysler (Though I think Chrysler continued it on the ZJ and possibly the WJ so they aren't completely off the hook) .


I Imagine the reasoning went like this: "Assembly is faster if we use a weld-nut which saves money, if we use a weld nut there is no need to access said nut so we can save money making the stamping for the spring mount simpler by eliminating the access hole for the nut", and no one thought or cared about future serviceability.

 

This is by far one of the greatest tools I have ( and no I'm not mister snap-on , yet . ) if I was you I'd get one and see if you can get it to work for you.

https://www.acwholesalers.com/Klein-...FQlgMgodUycAGg

I've gotten all sorts of stuck / broken bolt out with it. Even if you can't cut a slot into the broken bolt. You can still deliver the " impact " to the broken bolt to break it free. Bet a few good wacks with it and your easy-out bit will pull it.
I ground down one of the standard bits to a much smaller size, cause the bits mine can with wher all pretty big

 

OP, i ran into this exact same thing on mine this summer, but i guess i wasnt as screwed as you cuz i had air tools available. Once i realized what happened i found that cuttin a hole big enough for wrench helped. I still ended up cuttin the bolt with a sawzall cuz the bolt rusted to the inside of the spring eye bushing. Once the springs were out i just put in new bolts with washers and nuts and it was all done.

 

Wow - thanks for all the great tips! I'll go the route with cutting the "box" open but since I don't have access to air tools i'll have to use an angle grinder, a bigger hole can't be wrong though right?

Also, is it actually necessary to weld the metal piece that gets cut off back? Was thinking of bedlining the inside and just keeping it open but perhaps it's an structural integrity thing.

But, just for me to be on the clear side....cut the box open, try and break the nut off (whichever way possible) fit a lockwasher and a new nut (no welding?) and then just fit everything together?

Sounds "easy" enough.

 

Ya there is no need to weld the nut or the plate you cut off back on at all. Probly the best way to get the nut off if it is still welded on would be a hammer and chisel. I was able to use a air hammer on mine, but im guessin u cant take a portable air compressor down to work on it

 

Great. Now i'm quite pumped to get cutting - because once you've spent so much time, sweat and gotten so pissed at something so "simple" you just wanna destroy it

But yeah, I really can't use any bigger tools, generators, welds etc - people have actually complained that there's a jacked up car in the garage....pft.

 

A question about a tool being used for the job. Will a dremel work? An angle grinder uses disc of 115/125mm - doubt they'll be able to cut the small parts without getting away to much.

But will a dremel be able to cut into the box?

 

With the right cut-off wheel, sure. Get the heavy duty reinforced kind. Like this:
http://www.staples.com/office/suppli...35-154852171-2
Get a few of em though, in case of breakage (wear your safety glasses!) and/or wear. Take your time and be patient, it should do the job just fine.


better pic:

 

Screwdriver bits...?

A dremel will do it eventually, but you're gonna have a bad time. LOL. I'd think a 3" cutoff wheel for your grinder should do the trick.

 

His link is to the bits, but he's talking about a manual impact driver. Converts a hammer blow to torque. Can be useful in some situations.
The dremel method will take time, but like I said, be patient and it will work.

 

Hm alright - I was about to order a dremel since it has the smaller discs but probably less power and cutting strength but it will probably give cleaner and more exact cut because of the smaller disc.

The biggest disc for the angle grinder over here is around 5 inches and the smallest (i've seen) is 4.5 inches. I just don't want to cut away to much, but perhaps that doesn't matter? I'm thinking about the strength of the box after the surgery.