inefficient cooling
05-12-2011, 06:51 PM
#31
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Once installed, be sure to check that it's functioning correctly. As the engine/coolant heats up, coolant level should rise a little in the plastic bottle. As the engine/coolant cools (overnight) the coolant level in the plastic bottle should have dropped a little. The rad cap in an open system has 2 separate valves and both must function correctly to keep air OUT of the cooling system.
I'm somewhat concerned about that diamond plate tank possibly interfering (trapping air) with how the pressurized portion of an "open" system works. There should be zero, zip, nada air in the pressurized portion of an "open" system. Most people either splice into the top rad hose with a rad cap adapter or install a later model radiator that has a cap. That diamond plate tank has a rad cap but, it's not mounted directly in the top rad hose and that's what concerns me.
I'm somewhat concerned about that diamond plate tank possibly interfering (trapping air) with how the pressurized portion of an "open" system works. There should be zero, zip, nada air in the pressurized portion of an "open" system. Most people either splice into the top rad hose with a rad cap adapter or install a later model radiator that has a cap. That diamond plate tank has a rad cap but, it's not mounted directly in the top rad hose and that's what concerns me.
top view:
the diamond plate bottle is located @ oem pressure bottle location. it sits @ the highest point in the cooling system (which from what i understand is why people splice a "T" into the upper rad hose). it has one of the heater lines (one w/ HCV) attached to side, & the other heater line is attached to bottom of bottle. the po had routed hoses kinda funky, so that's why it looks weird. you can see in 2nd pic where he added the plastic flush-n-fill "T" to one of the heater lines. but if you look closely, you'll be able to tell what's routed where.
it took almost a full gallon of coolant, adding it to new bottle. the system kept sucking it up, after several temp. cycles (hot/cold), it seems to have burped all of the air out of the system & sits below 210f @ idle for 30 mins. diamond plate bottle is full to top, & plastic bottle cycles from just below the full line to just above the empty line, but never above or below, respectively. i don't know if this is the "legit" way to do it, but it seems to be working so far.
Last edited by smokerkenny; 05-12-2011 at 07:09 PM.
05-12-2011, 08:41 PM
#33
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
05-12-2011, 09:24 PM
#34
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.oL H.O. 784 injectors, EV6 to EV1 connectors, APN header, Dynomax exhaust
Would ditching the thermostat for a restrictor cause any problems?
I usually do this on older non-ECU'd vehicles because I hate thermostat failure.
I usually do this on older non-ECU'd vehicles because I hate thermostat failure.
05-14-2011, 02:52 PM
#36
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Year: 1988
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yeah, temp gauge is running around 210 or below (running temp idle for 30 mins.) it did take on an extra gallon of coolant, so in theory it should run just a little cooler due to more fluid & greater surface area to dissipate the heat. but i was referring to ambient air temps, with coastal temps being pretty cool. i'm planning a trip soon, & that'll give me more variation of an ambient temp range. will only really be able to figure out if it works through experimentation, right? anyhoo, thanks for the help! updates within a couple of weeks.
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