jeep 4.0L inline six Head gasket issues
#1
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jeep 4.0L inline six Head gasket issues
Hi There,
I read an article on a 4.6L stroker jeep 4.0L engine re-build.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...0l-inline-six/
My motor is stock and has never been opened til now - (had some overheating issue) - There was no oile and /or water mixed at any time, but there are some gas leaks into the water system. So I removed the head for inspection.
From what I can see , the head is warped and theres a gap between cylinders 3 and 4 and I will need to remove between 0.013 and 0.020 inch to level it up.
Is this head still useable keeping everything else the same ?
I can not see any markings on the head for the "max skimm amount"and there's nothing in the jeep manual either.
We I live we only get 93 and 95 octane fuel.
Any advice?
I read an article on a 4.6L stroker jeep 4.0L engine re-build.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...0l-inline-six/
My motor is stock and has never been opened til now - (had some overheating issue) - There was no oile and /or water mixed at any time, but there are some gas leaks into the water system. So I removed the head for inspection.
From what I can see , the head is warped and theres a gap between cylinders 3 and 4 and I will need to remove between 0.013 and 0.020 inch to level it up.
Is this head still useable keeping everything else the same ?
I can not see any markings on the head for the "max skimm amount"and there's nothing in the jeep manual either.
We I live we only get 93 and 95 octane fuel.
Any advice?
#2
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Depends in the year. If it is from 1999+ you more than likely have an "0331" head which usually cracks from the overheating. Ask me how I know...
Best bet is to get a better head preferable from an older model or better one that has a "TUPY" casting. You will also have to deck the head a considerable amount if you are going to go for the stroker build. It is very involved and pricey but worth it.
Search the forums there is a crap ton of info on it.
Worst case it will cost like 350 ish depending on where you live it can be much much cheaper.
Best bet is to get a better head preferable from an older model or better one that has a "TUPY" casting. You will also have to deck the head a considerable amount if you are going to go for the stroker build. It is very involved and pricey but worth it.
Search the forums there is a crap ton of info on it.
Worst case it will cost like 350 ish depending on where you live it can be much much cheaper.
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Hi There,
It is a 1999 (in "South-african years" ) , meaning normally In South-Africa we are a couple yeasr behind with everything.... ;-) .. I checked the head and the head is a 0630 head - I don't want to stroke the motor - I just want it running again
Regards,
P
It is a 1999 (in "South-african years" ) , meaning normally In South-Africa we are a couple yeasr behind with everything.... ;-) .. I checked the head and the head is a 0630 head - I don't want to stroke the motor - I just want it running again
Regards,
P
Last edited by Philip Coetzee; 12-18-2018 at 12:56 AM.
#4
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
Hi There,
It is a 1999 (in "South-african years" ) , meaning normally In South-Africa we are a couple yeasr behind with everything.... ;-) .. I checked the head and the head is a 0630 head - I don't want to stroke the motor - I just want it running again
Regards,
P
It is a 1999 (in "South-african years" ) , meaning normally In South-Africa we are a couple yeasr behind with everything.... ;-) .. I checked the head and the head is a 0630 head - I don't want to stroke the motor - I just want it running again
Regards,
P
I searched but couldn't find the specs on milling the head. Off the cuff, I can't see .015" being a problem.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I got this out of the FSM for my 97, under the 4.0L Engine Specifications.
Flatness - 0.03 mm per 25 mm (0.001 in. per 1 in.)
Flatness - 0.05 mm per 152 mm (0.002 in. per 6 in.)
Flatness Max: .020 mm - max. for total length (0.008 in. for total length)
Same info for the block. I can only assume those numbers are what the machine shop would need before milling them.
Flatness - 0.03 mm per 25 mm (0.001 in. per 1 in.)
Flatness - 0.05 mm per 152 mm (0.002 in. per 6 in.)
Flatness Max: .020 mm - max. for total length (0.008 in. for total length)
Same info for the block. I can only assume those numbers are what the machine shop would need before milling them.
#7
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
I got this out of the FSM for my 97, under the 4.0L Engine Specifications.
Flatness - 0.03 mm per 25 mm (0.001 in. per 1 in.)
Flatness - 0.05 mm per 152 mm (0.002 in. per 6 in.)
Flatness Max: .020 mm - max. for total length (0.008 in. for total length)
Same info for the block. I can only assume those numbers are what the machine shop would need before milling them.
Flatness - 0.03 mm per 25 mm (0.001 in. per 1 in.)
Flatness - 0.05 mm per 152 mm (0.002 in. per 6 in.)
Flatness Max: .020 mm - max. for total length (0.008 in. for total length)
Same info for the block. I can only assume those numbers are what the machine shop would need before milling them.
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#8
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#11
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Yeah, it only matters a if you're installing a high lift cam and milling the head a lot. Then you have to worry about valve-to-piston clearance. A .020 cut on a jeep head is enough to straighten a really bad head. If the block deck is damaged just a little, you can get a slightly thicker head gasket that should seal it.
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Hi Everyone,
I just want to thank everyone for all your advice.
I eventually got the head (0630 type) back from the engineering shop. In the end they took off just about 0,19" of the head. I out the head back in place and did the pre-load check and it seemed still within the 0.40" to 0.60" range.
So I continued to assemble the rest and test the engine and she's driving nice and smooth, no tappet ratling or backfires or mis fires.
Seem's all is good now.
thanks again to all.
P.S. Does anyone know where I can get a thermostat housing urgently DHL' shipped to SA? use or new, as long as it is in usable condition?
Kind Regards,
Phil
I just want to thank everyone for all your advice.
I eventually got the head (0630 type) back from the engineering shop. In the end they took off just about 0,19" of the head. I out the head back in place and did the pre-load check and it seemed still within the 0.40" to 0.60" range.
So I continued to assemble the rest and test the engine and she's driving nice and smooth, no tappet ratling or backfires or mis fires.
Seem's all is good now.
thanks again to all.
P.S. Does anyone know where I can get a thermostat housing urgently DHL' shipped to SA? use or new, as long as it is in usable condition?
Kind Regards,
Phil
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Hi Everyone,
I just want to thank everyone for all your advice.
I eventually got the head (0630 type) back from the engineering shop. In the end they took off just about 0,19" of the head. I out the head back in place and did the pre-load check and it seemed still within the 0.40" to 0.60" range.
So I continued to assemble the rest and test the engine and she's driving nice and smooth, no tappet ratling or backfires or mis fires.
Seem's all is good now.
thanks again to all.
P.S. Does anyone know where I can get a thermostat housing urgently DHL' shipped to SA? use or new, as long as it is in usable condition?
Kind Regards,
Phil
I just want to thank everyone for all your advice.
I eventually got the head (0630 type) back from the engineering shop. In the end they took off just about 0,19" of the head. I out the head back in place and did the pre-load check and it seemed still within the 0.40" to 0.60" range.
So I continued to assemble the rest and test the engine and she's driving nice and smooth, no tappet ratling or backfires or mis fires.
Seem's all is good now.
thanks again to all.
P.S. Does anyone know where I can get a thermostat housing urgently DHL' shipped to SA? use or new, as long as it is in usable condition?
Kind Regards,
Phil
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Year: 1990
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Thanks for the update!!
Glad it worked out.
Glad it worked out.