Yea I flushed everything separately. Radiator, heater core, block and hoses. There was never any oil in the water, just water in the oil.

Moderate pressure with the garden hose until the water came out clear from each area. Refill with all coolant, run til hot, drain, refill with 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled. Good to go. Haven't seen a speck of chocolatey vanilla foam or milky oil yet. Also haven't lost a drop of coolant yet. Hopefully I've got the problem solved and the new head will perform better.

 

Why in the world are you laughing, as if he said something stupid? Blocks crack. It's real. Because you haven't investigated the possibility, you might be swearing at yourself in a few weeks. Or maybe not. It might have only been the head. But as of right now, you don't know.

Ignoring good advice is never the smart thing to do, even if you do get away with it sometimes.

So, because you've never heard of it, it can't happen?


Nope. Not always.

Glad it seems to be okay now, but you would be better off listening to those who know more than you, rather than laughing at them.

 

Blocks WILL Crack! Been there and seen that.

 

When my XJ overheated, it warped the head and I had to have it milled. Luckily, the guy helping me suggested it, because had I just threw on another gasket, I would be dealing with it again. Did it 3 years ago and no problems since. Also replaced radiator, water pump, hoses and thermostat at same time. Now runs at about 195 all year round, even with A/C on in 90 degree weather.

 

My xj was bought with head gasket fubar and cracked 0331 head, cooling system full of oil. Once the head was off it was found that the block had cracked the entire length of the block about 1 inch below the head/block face, you could not see the crack untill the inlet manifold was removed.

Fantastic news that you have got it sorted mate, enjoy the best truck in the world.

 

The whole reason for me responding to his post was to get more information. I WAS listening. If I didn't want to listen to his advice, I wouldn't have even responded. The "LOL" in my post was because all he said was "Block is cracked" not where to look, how to check it, if he had seen this happen before etc... So I chuckled to myself and asked him to expand...

Not laughing at anyone, except maybe you, because your panties are so tight in a wad over nothing but a misunderstanding on YOUR part.

Since you are so full of advice, here's some for you. Maybe don't take things so seriously..? Especially when you've obviously misinterpreted the content at which you are flaming.

 

I'm pretty sure I need to do the water pump in mine as well judging by the color of the coolant (if you can call it that) that came out of it the first time it overheated. More like liquid rust. I was just so caught up on getting the head on I forgot to buy one... Also forgot to buy coolant the first time too... had to run up the the parts store YET AGAIN. Haha.

 

How would I test for a crack in the block? Wouldn't the oil be milky again after a week of driving after putting on the new head if it WAS in fact cracked? If the coolant and oil arent mixing and the crack is inward into a combustion chamber maybe? Wouldn't it run like crap? Since the head swap it runs like a top.

 

Az if your block was cracked mate you would know by now, so go with a new pump and rad cap and flush the crap out of it until its good, cracked block will just empty your system in no time and the goo will return big time.
Cracks will show up as rusty lines on a cast iron block, easy to spot but i dont think you have this issue, take your time, slowly slowly catchy monkey as the saying goes. do it properly jobs a good un.

 

Thats what I figured. Cracked block =big problems that are very apparent. Everything looks great so far. Crystal clear oil, no goo, not a degree over 210, and no coolant loss... hopefully weve got her taken care of... lol. Now I get to spend money on upgrades rather than maintenance. Yeah!!