af908

Not sure where some of these costs are comming from - 1000 bucks at the machine shop?! Maybe i'm lucky with prices but the shop i know quoted me 120 to bore all six cylinders, and another 25 to press on all the new pistons to the rods. Another shop quoted me 185 and 35.

The cyl walls are NOT scratched, there is no ledge at the top, nothing. I can still see the cross hatches on most of the cylinders. The only problem is the build-up from the aluminum that melted off of three of the pistons. I am planning on removing the aluminum, honeing all 6 cylinders and then looking for dark spots after the hone which should tell me if the cylinders have lost their shape at all from the heat.

The head did NOT crack or bend, and is in pretty good shape, although there were SLIGHT blow-by in a couple ports and it technically COULD use a valvejob. However i'm worried more about the bottom end of the motor at this point, The head can always come off later as far as im concerned.

What i want to know is where can you find a used engine for so cheap??? Everything i was looking at was in the 500$ + range. Someone send me a link if they can, i didnt even realize this as an option.

TheJerm

http://www.car-part.com/ - you can search junkyards in your area or around the country.

Buying a used one can be cheaper if you find a good deal on a decent motor. Rebuild it souldnt cost to much for machining, bearing set, seal set, ring set, and 2 pistons. I think the prices others are saying is a little crazy and is probably for having the whole block and head worked over which you dont need

af908

Thanks, maybe its just my area but the avg price is around 1000$. Ill guess ill stick to just rebuilding what i have, i'm not building a race motor so i think a set of bearings, seals, rings, lifters (since i kicked the box that i had them in, all lined up in order ), and new set of pistons should suffice. Provided the hone turns out ok of course.

TheJerm

jeez you come the land of gold plated motors?

edit did you organize your search by price or distance? That site only organizes it from highest price to lowest

Hommersimpson

I rebuilt briggs and straton engines when i was 10.. mowed yards for more money to get more parts to fix more mowers to mow more yards... got first job pushing broom in garage when 13... built first motor 351C boss in 69 Mach 1... when 15... then built my 289 for my frist car few months later.... took auto machine and engine rebuild full time at mid florida tech for 2 years when i was 17-19... was teachers pet... i new it all and did it all... now im a old fart... back gone.. neck gone... LOL but yes i love engines...Ive worked in garages my whole life.. and no matter what you tell the custamer.... it will be atleast 200 - 500 more then the HIGHEST est you can give them and not feel bad... lol... its just the way it goes..

Hommersimpson

well say 185 bore it... 35 press pistons on... they will tell you deck is warped... need decked before they can bore it strait... thats going to be 125 ? then before they can bore it they want new pistons and rings...
so ad what 200 bucks for a decent set of pistons and rings ?
now block is warped.. and im sure it is... the head will need decked.. ad another 75...and any head work. You would not put this much work in to bottom end and not do the head... all the valves checked..spring presure checked ( drop a valve and the whole motor is shot) ... head checked for cracks.... yes..... 1000 bucks to be safe.. you might walk out with 200 bucks in pocket but...never tell yourself that..

Kevin108

Poor cylinders, don't be afraid. It's okay.

TheJerm

I dont think he needs to do all that and he really could get away just picking up 2 pistons to replace the burnt up ones.

Ive replaced just the piston and rod after a buddy threw a rod when hydrolocked his motor and it ran fine. Later on when it started burning oil real badly from another bend rod, we then built it into a 4.5L stroker and the only thing the machinist did was hot tank it and press in new cam bearings. That thing runs great and is still kicking even after he beats on it the rocks

So is it a good idea to spend $1000 on a motor rebuild? It might be for peace of mind. But do you really need to do all that, NO. Your not looking to make tons of HP and go drag racing with it and make it live at its read line, are you? A simple rebuild would do just fine or buy a junkyard motor that you dont know the condition of and swap it in.

Hommersimpson

He can do what ever he wants.. Im just giving my opinun of cost to do something the right way... I have not even gone into the detail of the fact the WHOLE motor got Way overheated..the line bore in crank is prob off... the crank will need turned from all the aluminum that went throuth it..the dirt cheapest way is a junk yard or beat up jeep with good motor... second cheapest way is same motor you just got used and re ring it with new bearings..3rd cheapest is by a reman .. so i just called advance discount auto... reman 3 year 36k mile waranty 1,625.. 4th way is do it yourself but do it right that means everything checked anything that needs done...
I have seen so many people try to patch a engine up only to spend 300- 500 bucks and it last a few weeks .... once a motor gets hot enough to melt pistons... its not worth rebuilding to start with..to many things happen when overheated.. yes they can be patched up... yes alot will run for ever... if ya got money to waste its one thing...if ya dont its another..used motors for these are everywere...cheap..

af908

Removed the built up aluminum on the cyl walls very carefulls with a drill and a cloth-wheel with sandpaper first. The hone came out very good. Mic'd the cyl walls and all are still within specs, taper is good, bore is fine.

Three of the pistons are bad, but im going to replace all of them, set of rings, maybe lifters, all gaskets and seals, and hell i might even reuse the rod bearings the things are like brand new still.

I doubt any damage got to the crankcase area, all of the aluminum was stuck near the tops of the cyl walls, and the aluminum missing from the pistons were all above the bottom piston ring, so I dont see how it really could have made its way down into the crankcase.

As for the lifters, i know its important to match up each lifter with where it came from on the block, and i did. BUT stupid me kicked the box i had them all lined up in by mistake. Is it ok to reuse in wrong order? Lifters have no wear on them. Motor had 93k on it btw.

af908

I'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. Zip code is 06416...

freegdr

you either use them or go buy new ones its your choice me if they all look ok id put them in

TheJerm

I found like a dozen for $500 bucks or less within 30 miles of that zip code. I dont know what year your is but with the long block it doesnt matter i searched for 95 cause thats my yr, you just bolt your yr head on and accessories and your good to go.

mwdouglas

its said not reuse them if you can not put them back in the same location now with that said i have reused them even though they were not in same location I was fine but you never know until you try now i did this in a gm 250cid straight 6 which has access covers on the side of the block for lifter removal

CAEMI

X3 or 4 or 5 or whatever.

Buy a motor off craigslist, slap it in and go. That block needs boring, maybe a line bore, crank turned, new slugs, new cam, mains, rod bearings. It's gonna be ugly expensive and a very great deal of work and, in the end, you're depending on the machine shop to do good work in order to make all your effort and money worthwhile.

Buy a CL motor.