Jeep vibrates at highway speeds
#16
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Flagstaff
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
We went to the junkyard the other day and found ourselves another driveshaft to try and it was a fairly decent one. The shaft was very clean and the slip was tight and had no lateral movement, the only problem was the U-joints didn't feel great.
We still swapped this one in a now the vibrations are all gone
Now time to find the click when I turn my wheel far.
And get my old driveshaft slip rebuilt.
We still swapped this one in a now the vibrations are all gone
Now time to find the click when I turn my wheel far.
And get my old driveshaft slip rebuilt.
#18
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 17
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From: Flagstaff
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have not noticed a click that repeats with the wheel spinning just as i turn the steering wheel far I get one pop on one side then it wont pop again till I turn far the opposite direction.
Last edited by lonski349; 07-14-2014 at 11:44 AM.
#19
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 11
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Sounds like a ball joint.
In the final analysis, it looks like it was drive shaft related, as I mentioned in several earlier posts.
In the final analysis, it looks like it was drive shaft related, as I mentioned in several earlier posts.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 07-14-2014 at 03:57 AM.
#20
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Flagstaff
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It was hard for us to believe that it could be the drive shaft because when we would replace the drive shaft with our spare it the vibrations had no change. We did notice after completing the repair that the spare drive shaft we were using has the same 1/8th inch lateral play as my original one. Thankfully rebuilding the front end was not a waste as there were many bearings that needed replacing and some improper techniques used by whoever did the last rebuild that could have done a lot of damage.
Thank you for your help on finding the solution and unless my edit to the last post changes your thinking we are going to go ahead and replace any bad or failing ball joints.
Last edited by lonski349; 07-15-2014 at 03:55 PM.
#21
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 11
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
That clack or pop when you turn would point first to a worn ball joint, in my experience.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, and correct me if I am misreading the sequence of events here, but the original and the first replacement drive shaft had the same problem.
But the second replacement fixed the vibration? So the first two had the same defect, and caused the same problem?
That's what I meant could be happening when I kept on saying it could be a drive shaft problem still, even with the first replacement. There was not absolute assurance it was a good one.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, and correct me if I am misreading the sequence of events here, but the original and the first replacement drive shaft had the same problem.
But the second replacement fixed the vibration? So the first two had the same defect, and caused the same problem?
That's what I meant could be happening when I kept on saying it could be a drive shaft problem still, even with the first replacement. There was not absolute assurance it was a good one.
#22
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Newbie
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 17
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From: Flagstaff
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
That clack or pop when you turn would point first to a worn ball joint, in my experience.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, and correct me if I am misreading the sequence of events here, but the original and the first replacement drive shaft had the same problem.
But the second replacement fixed the vibration? So the first two had the same defect, and caused the same problem?
That's what I meant could be happening when I kept on saying it could be a drive shaft problem still, even with the first replacement. There was not absolute assurance it was a good one.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, and correct me if I am misreading the sequence of events here, but the original and the first replacement drive shaft had the same problem.
But the second replacement fixed the vibration? So the first two had the same defect, and caused the same problem?
That's what I meant could be happening when I kept on saying it could be a drive shaft problem still, even with the first replacement. There was not absolute assurance it was a good one.
Now for the pop.
I have done quite a bit of research on pops others have had and found it could be anything from bad joints to some random loose bolt in the front end so this afternoon I had someone do some steering wheel spinning while I sat under the car feeling for the pop. I found that the strongest point I can feel the pop at with my hand is at the bottom of the track bar and it can also be felt on the driver side of the car when the pop is big enough, but that big pop is not that common.
Could this be my track bar being loose? I know its joint has a bad rubber boot so it does not hold grease well but I could not feel any strong pop from there or see any jerking movements. Now down at the bottom I had to replace the bolt and nut because I broke the old bolt while torquing down to spec and to get the bolt and nut out I had to cut up that special nut thing so now there is just a normal nut on that back and that made it impossible to torque down that bold because there was no way to grab the nut in a way to hold enough force. Down at the bottom there is some movement but it is very small and I can not move the bar at all by hand. Could the problem be there or do you think it is somewhere else, I am thinking of going and salvaging a few of those nuts from a yard so I can get proper torque specs.
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