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jeep xj no start, weak spark

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Old 11-23-2020, 09:38 PM
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Default jeep xj no start, weak spark

I’m at a complete loss here, I had a problem with my 1999 jeep cherokee classic where it wouldn’t start this week. it has fuel pressure, and injectors are delivering fuel. the spark is a yellow/orange color which means it’s weak. correct? so I installed a new coil and it started up, but barely. It would start and would continually try to stall out at idle, so i went on and replaced the distributor and spark plugs and now won’t fire what so ever. Did I install the distributor wrong? I was pretty confident that i had the timing set properly. Or is there something else i’m missing here? Is it possible it’s a bad pcm?

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Old 11-23-2020, 10:33 PM
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Welcome to the forum.


Originally Posted by jacobsicard
. the spark is a yellow/orange color which means it’s weak. correct?
Correct.



Originally Posted by jacobsicard
. so I installed a new coil and it started up, but barely. It would start and would continually try to stall out at idle, so i went on and replaced the distributor and spark plugs and now won’t fire what so ever. Did I install the distributor wrong?
Probably. Never assume. Double check yourself, and do NOT use any info that comes from Chilton or Haynes. They are often wrong.


Originally Posted by jacobsicard
. Is it possible it’s a bad pcm?
Yes, it's theoretically possible, but that's a long way down the list of possibles.

Check the basics: How are your cables? Grounds? A bad ground here and there can wreak havoc on many systems. This is especially true with our XJs because most of the engine functions get constant 12v, and then the PCM provides ground to fire the device (coil, injectors, etc.). A marginal PCM ground will cause lots of grief.

The PCM grounds to a plate near the distributor, and your main battery cable grounds there, too.
Old 11-24-2020, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Welcome to the forum.




Correct.





Probably. Never assume. Double check yourself, and do NOT use any info that comes from Chilton or Haynes. They are often wrong.




Yes, it's theoretically possible, but that's a long way down the list of possibles.

Check the basics: How are your cables? Grounds? A bad ground here and there can wreak havoc on many systems. This is especially true with our XJs because most of the engine functions get constant 12v, and then the PCM provides ground to fire the device (coil, injectors, etc.). A marginal PCM ground will cause lots of grief.

The PCM grounds to a plate near the distributor, and your main battery cable grounds there, too.

I checked the grounds and they seemed good, is it possible that a bad CPS would cause a weak spark?
Old 11-24-2020, 07:40 PM
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Update: Replaced the CPS and checked the grounds, still nothing. I do have power getting to the coil, had 11.5 volts and the battery was at 12.06V. So I did new spark plug wires and tried another new coil. Nothing did the trick, still cranks with no fire, even with starting fluid so i know it’s not a fuel issue.
Old 11-24-2020, 10:07 PM
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CPS won't give a weak spark.

How did you check your grounds? IF you didn't take them apart, you didn't check them.
Old 11-25-2020, 06:25 AM
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Error codes?
Old 11-25-2020, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Error codes?
no codes
Old 11-25-2020, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
CPS won't give a weak spark.

How did you check your grounds? IF you didn't take them apart, you didn't check them.
i took them apart. i did the ones right under the coil mounting on the block. are there any more i should be checking?
Old 11-25-2020, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jacobsicard
no codes
CkPS issues can be present without generating error codes.

The distributor was complete, including camshaft sensor?

Handy with a multimeter?
Old 11-25-2020, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
CkPS issues can be present without generating error codes.

The distributor was complete, including camshaft sensor?

Handy with a multimeter?
yes the distributor was complete with cam sensor, i replaced the crank position sensor too and didn’t make a difference. And yes I can use a multimeter.
Old 11-25-2020, 11:33 AM
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If the grounds are good and clean the new CPS didn't fix it, then I'd have to say its the part that provides the voltage for the spark. Battery or alternator? If you have a battery charger, hook that up and see if it helps to start the engine, or just an old school jump start from another vehicle. If it starts up much easier, check your battery and alternator cables for signs of bad stuff, loose connections, etc....
Old 11-25-2020, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RockyMtn96XJ
If the grounds are good and clean the new CPS didn't fix it, then I'd have to say its the part that provides the voltage for the spark. Battery or alternator? If you have a battery charger, hook that up and see if it helps to start the engine, or just an old school jump start from another vehicle. If it starts up much easier, check your battery and alternator cables for signs of bad stuff, loose connections, etc....
tried a jump start and a new alternator too
Old 11-25-2020, 12:05 PM
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Dang......
Old 11-25-2020, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RockyMtn96XJ
Dang......
maybe they gave me a bad alternator? i got a remanufactured one from advance. it was making a pretty loud whining noise after i put it in but the bearings feel fine.
Old 11-25-2020, 12:13 PM
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Possible. Odds arent great, but its possible. I want to say that the distributor cap CAN go on wrong, but if it had this issue before you replaced that, its probably not the issue, unless it had moved by itself before you replaced it and put the new one on in the same orientation as you took it off.

Did you replace the rotor with the cap?


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