mgreig

Hey guys as promised I pulled the interior out today. I’m limited on some tools so the seatbelt buckles stay for now along with the back seat. I might be able to work around it and it’s not hiding the floor pan so it’ll probably stay. Someone tried to get the seatbelts out before me because the passenger side rear was half out and stripped .

at a stop for now as I wait for a shop vac filter. I’m not blasting rust all over the garage. Next is to wire rush everything. Looks like I’ll be doing the full front and back floor pan on the passenger side. Not sure with the driver side just yet. I’m worried about where the floor pan meets the firewall on the passenger side. I take it this menstrual pad is not factory? It was tucked up in the firewall blocking the hole.

anyways here’s some juicy pics for you guys. I’m not gonna flake on this thread I know I’m new but I’m here to stay and post along the way!

Is this pad factory?



Paper thin here in the passenger rear, will probably do full length mopar floor pan for this side.

Hole that meets firewall that I’m concerned about. Repairing

This is passenger side. I’m going to have to pull that brace out to patch the floor hopefully it’s not too bad

found the key fob under the driver seat stuck in the plastic shroud. Sometimes I win

mgreig

I’m a power plant/control room operator. But in Massachusetts you have to become a licensed engineer to do it. the different jobs you can do with the license are referred to as a whole as “stationary engineering” positions

I agree with looking it all over and everything else seems sound. Just floorpans really. It’s throwing a couple codes for map sensor and running ****ty but that’s least of my concerns now. It’s only got 77k and 4x4 functions perfect.

country2

Thats not too bad...here is what my drivers side looked like


damn with all my spot welds should of done solid beads. My welding still needs more practice.

TrailerTrash

That pad is most definitely factory. The people at Jeep were well aware of leaks and water damage on these vehicles. My 98 had a large pad in the front passenger side, a thick layer of padding, then the regulat fluff on the underside of the carpet. And in the rear most lower quarter panel there was a large moisture absorbing packet.

robsjeep

Power plant control, that sounds interesting!

Anyway, why dont you get a screw driver and remove the black plastic door threshold covers, see if it the rocker is rusty under them?

Good luck!

TrailerTrash

definitely do this. Aswell as the inner trim on the door ledge.

Check everything

mgreig

@country2 oh wow that makes me feel slightly better haha. You made nice work of it. Still think your better with those tacks than doing a full weld. The stuff is so thin.

Hey guys sorry I didnt mention it before but it’s super clean underneath those covers. I just left them in place for now because I always have a hard time putting those back together. I tried to take some pics for you guys to show it’s condition. There is one small rust spot on the front passenger “rocker seam?”

the bottom of the doors are starting to go in the front. I pulled the seals off to get a closer look. Looks like I will be fine for now. The rockers and doors had been rust treated the right way and I noticed that when I went to look at it and it actually made me feel better knowing someone cared for it haha

At this point I’m in it for so much work and money I dont even care anymore. Im going to fix it all the right way and take my time with it, make it what I want. I’m probably going to recoat the frame and everything. Considering putting those smoker window vents in it, and one of those interior roof consoles when I do the headliner. I mean Im married to it now so fix the rust right and I have a Cherokee with 77k miles that should last me years.

I need to move this to the build section or start a new thread. I didn’t realize this is more of a Q A section. Anyone know how to do this or should I just fire up a new thread and post a link here?

more pics but no more progress. I have a funny schedule and can’t work on it till Sunday afternoon

Passenger front door

Passenger front door

Passenger side

Passenger seem rust spot mentioned

Passenger side rust treatment

Driver side front

Driver door

Im going to eventually need doors I guess? But I’ll see how these clean up. Either way they are staying on for the time being

robsjeep

You own a rust bucket, all pimped up by prior owner. Many $ thousands in repairs needed. If this is to be a long term keeper, well you might want to rethink that, sell now and cut your losses. It has been repainted, correct?

I got a 1990 that has virtually zero rust, insides of rockers clean as can be. under carpets very nice. had a bit of rust, a tiny bit in the windshield frame, got it totally repaired when I replaced a broken window ( rock hit it on freeway, a fist sized rock, came right at the my most pretty face, showered me in glass.) That jeep has over 300K miles on it.

mgreig

@robsjeep i agree with you and usually steer away from rusted cars. As mentioned I was kinda duped and didn’t look it over good. These holes I show were all just soft spots and the one in cargo area was dime sized when I first saw it. Unibody is good though and where the shackles and front suspension mount up is also good.

rockers and bottom of doors were re painted and are solid aside from the front door rails, that look like they’ll clean up hood enough for now

Im thinking floor pans and break lines. But it’s not like the whole thing is rotting apart I’ve seen people restore way worse. They posted to this thread.

I’m in MA so most stuff I’m going to find here is going to have some rust. People want 5k for 200k miles. It’ll still have rust but maybe not rotted floor pans but those ones won’t last a lifetime either and will also need attention at some point. A clean one here is like 7-8 grand with lower miles

jpz

Good for you taking on the project. Such a bummer that it was advertised as rust free. I would just leave the thread where it is, you have peaked our interest and most of us will probably just come back here looking for your thread.

mgreig

Thanks jpz! Yea I didn’t realize there’s a minimum post requirement to post in the build thread too. I’m fine posting here as long as nobody minds me doing so.

won’t really be able to get back at the jeep till Sunday due to my work schedule. Going to wire brush the rusty areas and cut out the holes and start making a patch plan. As mentioned before I think What I’ll do is get the full length front to rear passenger side pan from mopar for like 200. Then the driver side pan from mopar for 100. Everything else I plan to make my own pieces to fit. My dad has a welder I can use to tack in the floorpans. So once everything is cleaned up and the floorpans are tack and sealed I plan to paint the whole floor and put down some kind of rust preventer

what is the routine for treating the rust? Brush down to bare metal of course, then what products are best to put down to prevent future rust? I’ve seen it done a few ways not sure which is best

jpz

I'm not in a position to answer for "best way". But what I have done is wire brush to bare metal, prime and paint for areas I really care about.

There are multiple products that you can put on rusted metal to treat, rust dissolvers, naval jelly. I used some stuff years ago that was in a spray can that you were supposed to put on the actual rust and it supposedly caused a chemical reaction that hardened the rust and made it paintable. I used that on the rear wheel wells of 1994 Ranger I had and to my surprise it worked pretty well. The rust did eventually return after several years, but it was on the bed so I wasn't overly worried about it.

thelonejourney

When I purchased my XJ and took out my back seats, I found a $50 gift card that was never used and about $10.00 in cash and some change lol!!!

doublechaz

I bought a Subaru for parts for my daily. Found a 10mm socket, like three dollars in change and a whole pack of some kind of hard candies.

mgreig

Hey both those sound like good scores to me! I need to replace the battery and see if the fob I found works, if it does that’s like a $200 score right? I was told to have the dealer mate the fob to the jeep would be like 200? A 10mm is hard to beat though

I also ran the vehicle history to see if and when it sat and turns out it never really did! One owner up until 2020!! So that’s pretty cool I figure it’s good it never sat around. I’m feeling better and better about this project.

couldnt get out there yesterday because I got caught up at pops house when I went to grab a grinder so I’m at a stop till Wednesday-Thursday when I’m off work. But here’s pics of vehicle history. Pretty cool. Some you guys that posted here are from where it came from, I’m up in Gardner, ma myself. Grabbed this in philly