mgreig

Hey haven’t posted in a while but not much has happened.
I fixed my passenger windows by both splicing a worn wire under drivers seat and by jumping the window lock switch. So I can’t lock the windows but they all work which is good enough for me.

also replaced the tps because it was throwing a code for that. It’s now much more responsive. Sure there’s more codes but that’s all she’ll throw till I can put miles on her.

replaced the batteries on the remote lock and it works so that was pretty cool.

will be ordering floor pans in the next few days. Will be doing full passenger side and just front driver side. Will patch the rest. Then it’s on to the RE 3.5” super flex and some 31’s. Just waiting on my buddy to buy my Harley next week lol



luckily I believe I have the 8.25 rear end so I can do bigger tires and not worry too much?

robsjeep

yes, an 8 1/4 rear end can be regeared for use with bigger tires. my friend did that, I got a Ford 9 inch in mine 4.11 gears.

PatHenry

Interestingly - I just read somewhere where they recommended up to 34" for the Chrysler 8.25 rear end. Note that the list had about 8 different axles on it (D44 and some larger Ford/GM ones) and none listed higher than 35".. so, yeah -- the tires on that Jeep look really nice though as far as wear - they might be worth selling if you do upgrade.

RobsJeep --- Re: rust -- you live in CA sir! For MA, PA, THAT is actually a pretty low-rust vehicle. We are not nearly so lucky with rust up here - the salt on the roads, the water everywhere, the sometimes feet deep snowstorms... that is a wholly salvageable Jeep for this part of the U.S.

mgreig

@PatHenry hey neighbor! My grandma lives in Groton over on west st. Beautiful little town!

yea for our area I thought the rust wasn’t too terrible. No rust on these is next to impossible to find around here unless you have 8-10k lol. Wasn’t planning to do the floors over but life goes on.

yea the tires are mint and I will be selling them when I upgrade. I’m not going to be putting any miles on them between now and then so If you or anyone you know would be interested I can contact you when the time comes. I’ll be selling for realistic price when the time comes. Didn’t know I could safely push to 35s that might change my plans for 31s lol

mgreig

Hey all, I haven’t posted in a while, but I’ve stocked up on parts big time and the jeep is finally on the road!
i will say it has one hell of a death wobble! and where it’s coming from is not immediately apparent. The famous trac bar bolt seems to be good but it’s hard to tell with my 6 year old being the one turning the wheel for me haha. I’ve yet to get it on jacks to see if it’s ball joints. I’m probably just going to replace all the steering components but not sure What to do to fix the dw yet. I do have some new components on hand

parts I’ve acquired while the jeep sat.
FLOORPANS both sides front and rear mopar pans. And acc full carpet
3.5” rubicon express superflex kit w monotubes and full leafs
re adjustable trac bar
re quick sway bar disconnects
flowmaster catback (gift)
mopar trailer hitch kit (gift)

I’ve yet to put theses parts on, I just registered the jeep and am going to be doing the lift and floorpans at my dads soon

so I want to solve my death wobble ideally before lifting the jeep. I wouldn’t mind upgrading the steering but I don’t think it’s really necessary at 3.5”? And most upgrade packages require a lift so I wouldn’t be able to get any drive time on stock height. I don’t mind spending money on nice stuff but this is just going to be an overland rig with ligh off-roading. I see 1a auto makes a cheap kit but I wasn’t sure if it was junk. Any ideas??? I guess I could buy their zj kit and assume it’s beafier?

the only things immediately apparent when looking it over are the sway bar linkage bushings are toast, and the 2 bushings that connect the sway bar to the frame are junk as well. I hear a slight click when first turning the wheel and it seems to be at the Ackerman arm tie rod. There is play in steering. I don’t think that sway bar bushings alone would cause dw but you guys tell me? Tires are good and I’m not sure about alignment. Other than that it all looks “ok” but I’m going to take a closer look with the wife at the wheel tomorrow.

in the meantime I’ve changed the o rings on the oil filter adapter. Mine oddly took a 14mm to remove if you guys can believe that. That seems to have eliminated the oil drip I had. removed the headliner and cleaned up all the glue and done the same with an ohc I acquired. I’m going to try to re do the fabric on both tomorrow. But the good news is there’s no rust at all under the headliner!

ill try to post pictures tomorrow. Let me know what you guys think of the dw and possible solutions please

Rogue4x4

Have an alignment done. Bad alignment can cause DW, and might reveal where the problem is if it isn't alignment alone.

mgreig

+1 for the alignment. I don’t think it’s that alone since I have play in steering and hear a click when steering first engages side to side. Worth a shot, might help the real issue surface.

This is my first time really diving into steering components on any vehicle so bear with me here.
is the drag link supposed to be able to rotate by hand about 1/8-1/4 turn back and forth?

my goal is to cheaply fix the DW and put a month of miles on her, then put lift and tires on. At that point I can upgrade steering if that’s what’s recommended

Rogue4x4

Do the lift and steering first, IMO. Why do 2 alignments?