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Knock after fresh oil change.....what?
#16
#17
I'd Seafoam your oil first, and take it from there. From what I can tell ATF is a lot more aggressive than Seafoam and I wouldn't use it unless your out of options. If your lifter is in the process of collapse, you need to do something soon or your valve train will get hammered to death, your rig will start to barely run, and be really hard to drive. Experience speaking
If your a DD remember that a lumpy cam is gonna give you more power, but will usually sacrifice mpg's and driveability. Also keep in if the cam allows for more air, but the intake, and exhaust don't, you will never see the full benefits. I've never cammed one of these motors, but one thing to think about is how the ECM will handle a change in lift and duration.
Whowey....I see where your comin from now!
Cob24....as far as I know 40 psi warm at idle, 60-75 psi under load is perfect, but I've heard of some 4.0's that go as low as 15psi at idle and they don't grenade.
If your a DD remember that a lumpy cam is gonna give you more power, but will usually sacrifice mpg's and driveability. Also keep in if the cam allows for more air, but the intake, and exhaust don't, you will never see the full benefits. I've never cammed one of these motors, but one thing to think about is how the ECM will handle a change in lift and duration.
Whowey....I see where your comin from now!
Cob24....as far as I know 40 psi warm at idle, 60-75 psi under load is perfect, but I've heard of some 4.0's that go as low as 15psi at idle and they don't grenade.
#18
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
Click on "Cleaning lifters and oil rings"
The directions tell you to keep checking your oil because Seafoam picks up a lot of carbon, but a good general rule is to just change it at 100-200 miles after putting it in. Don't drain any oil, just add it right in..about half a can for a 4.0. Google is your friend!!
Click on "Cleaning lifters and oil rings"
The directions tell you to keep checking your oil because Seafoam picks up a lot of carbon, but a good general rule is to just change it at 100-200 miles after putting it in. Don't drain any oil, just add it right in..about half a can for a 4.0. Google is your friend!!
#19
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 13
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Mine makes noise on cold starts but it last like a second or 2. I've seen brand new vehicles at work do it. I wouldint worry bout it unless it sounds like a Rod slapping around on a crank journel.
#20
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 30
From: Detroit, Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
We have a fleet of Cherokees where I work. Just drive it and enjoy it, it is normal for these engines to make some noise. Your oil pressure is fine and normal. Why change the oil 3 times in 7000 miles? Every 6000 miles is fine for oil changes, you're just pissing money away otherwise. Now if you're driving only short distances and never letting the engine reach normal operating temperature, then you should change it more often.
Plus- before i'd go all radical rebuild, ATF adding, i'd seriously think about running some Marvel Mystery Oil-
I know it sounds corney, but that stuff really has fixed quite a few problems for me.
Hit the search thread for marvel-
Good- luck
Keep us posted.
Billy
#21
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
Click on "Cleaning lifters and oil rings"
The directions tell you to keep checking your oil because Seafoam picks up a lot of carbon, but a good general rule is to just change it at 100-200 miles after putting it in. Don't drain any oil, just add it right in..about half a can for a 4.0. Google is your friend!!
Click on "Cleaning lifters and oil rings"
The directions tell you to keep checking your oil because Seafoam picks up a lot of carbon, but a good general rule is to just change it at 100-200 miles after putting it in. Don't drain any oil, just add it right in..about half a can for a 4.0. Google is your friend!!
#22
Okay, let me tear it down for you all.
My jeep has this weird tendency to knock after a fresh oil change. This same knock also happens to be there after every cold start. The knocking sound does not last for long, as once it warms up it goes away.
I have owned the car since 109k miles and she now has 116k miles. I have changed the oil a total of three times since I bought it. The first oil change, I put in 10w30 Castrol GTX with a Bosch oil filter. The second time I went up in weight to 10w40 Castrol GTX with a mopar oil filter. The jeep didn't like the 10w40 weight all that much. It idled kind of rough and it was difficult to start on cold mornings. On the most recent oil change, I switched back to 10w30 but I put shell rotella mated with a purolator pure one filter (gold plated oil filter). The car seems to love this oil much more as it idles smoother and drives smoother and the oil pressure is right where I want it to be.
Other than the aforementioned noise, the car runs and drives beautifully and very strongly. Its just the sound it makes when I fire it up in the morning sounds like a knock. And what's weird is that, after I put about 2000-2500 miles after an oil change, the noise on start up isn't as prevalent as it was when it was fresh.
Any ideas? I am stumped...I sure hope it's not signs of the motor going out....cuz I'd be pretty disappointed if the infamous 4.0 flaked out on me at only 116k miles
EDIT: I don't have a mechanic's stethoscope, so I can't verify the source of the noise 100% BUT...I can say that the noise seems like it's coming from the bottom end of the car rather than the top. I guess the range of it would be from the belts to the transmission bell housing....somewhere around that area. I don't know if that would help some.
My jeep has this weird tendency to knock after a fresh oil change. This same knock also happens to be there after every cold start. The knocking sound does not last for long, as once it warms up it goes away.
I have owned the car since 109k miles and she now has 116k miles. I have changed the oil a total of three times since I bought it. The first oil change, I put in 10w30 Castrol GTX with a Bosch oil filter. The second time I went up in weight to 10w40 Castrol GTX with a mopar oil filter. The jeep didn't like the 10w40 weight all that much. It idled kind of rough and it was difficult to start on cold mornings. On the most recent oil change, I switched back to 10w30 but I put shell rotella mated with a purolator pure one filter (gold plated oil filter). The car seems to love this oil much more as it idles smoother and drives smoother and the oil pressure is right where I want it to be.
Other than the aforementioned noise, the car runs and drives beautifully and very strongly. Its just the sound it makes when I fire it up in the morning sounds like a knock. And what's weird is that, after I put about 2000-2500 miles after an oil change, the noise on start up isn't as prevalent as it was when it was fresh.
Any ideas? I am stumped...I sure hope it's not signs of the motor going out....cuz I'd be pretty disappointed if the infamous 4.0 flaked out on me at only 116k miles
EDIT: I don't have a mechanic's stethoscope, so I can't verify the source of the noise 100% BUT...I can say that the noise seems like it's coming from the bottom end of the car rather than the top. I guess the range of it would be from the belts to the transmission bell housing....somewhere around that area. I don't know if that would help some.
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
mine does the opposite. runs great cold after sitting over night, no noises. then in the afternoon after sitting 9 hours it makes a little noise when i accelerate. not the flexplate. i put some lucas to it and it quited it down a some. mechanic just told me that it is something cherokees can do. gonna try the seafoam thing in the oil, im almost due for a change anyways and see what happens. Cherokees just make noises I guess but they sure do run great and i love mine.
#25
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
It is best to check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if you're worried about it, sending units can be wrong. As a rule of thumb, you should have atleast 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000RPM.
#26
I am actually getting a little concerned now as I think the car may need new rod bearings.
The knocking sound is very robust during the cold start but I am almost 100% positive that the sound is coming from near the oil pan (which leads me to believe that it could be the rod bearings....) the problem is I don't want to needlessly drop the oil pan, so is there any way to tell if the car has bad rod bearings without dropping the pan?
I really can't tell if the noise is still there if I rev the car up while it's warming up because the fans are so loud.
I just honestly can't fathom that the car would knock with only 116k miles. That's not even broken in yet for these engines and this thing has been well maintained throughout its life. I just don't remember it knocking when I first got it nor when I first changed the oil on it. So I don't know.
The knocking sound is very robust during the cold start but I am almost 100% positive that the sound is coming from near the oil pan (which leads me to believe that it could be the rod bearings....) the problem is I don't want to needlessly drop the oil pan, so is there any way to tell if the car has bad rod bearings without dropping the pan?
I really can't tell if the noise is still there if I rev the car up while it's warming up because the fans are so loud.
I just honestly can't fathom that the car would knock with only 116k miles. That's not even broken in yet for these engines and this thing has been well maintained throughout its life. I just don't remember it knocking when I first got it nor when I first changed the oil on it. So I don't know.
Last edited by CommanderXJ; 02-22-2010 at 01:15 PM.
#27
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
If it was a rod bearing, you would hear it at about 2000-2500 RPM and may have a loss in oil pressure. You would not mistake the sound if it was a rod knocking, it is loud and will make you feel it in the pit of your stomach because you know it will cost you.
#28
Well then maybe it isn't a rod bearing. My oil pressure is fine, it never dips below 40 psi at idle and it's always around 60 psi under load.
I am thinking of going with rotella's 15w40 weight oil but I don't know if that's too thick. I have 10w30 rotella in there now and it drives a lot better with it on that. How many of you run 15w40 on your jeeps and do they like it?
I am thinking of going with rotella's 15w40 weight oil but I don't know if that's too thick. I have 10w30 rotella in there now and it drives a lot better with it on that. How many of you run 15w40 on your jeeps and do they like it?
#29
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i did 10w30 and put a qt of lucas in there and i think it started running better...quieter at least. Im pretty curious about the oil weight though. Ive been wondering but the best weight is myself
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