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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I thought I was gonna install a new set of leaf springs in my '92 XJ this past Saturday. Instead I spent the entire day cursing Jeeps, engineers, the crappy uni-body design, and just life in general.
With the help of a YouTube video, I managed to get all 4 of the shackle end bolts out and one of the front bolts. But when I got to the passenger side front bolt, the spot welds broke that hold the nut in the spring pocket, so the nut is just spinning. After almost 8 hours of wrestling with that crap, I was so frustrated that's where I stopped. I had too many Father's Day plans to mess with it yesterday, so before I dive into this again, I wanted to get some insight from those who had dealt with this before.
Anybody have any recommendations on how to stop that nut from spinning now that it has broken the spot welds loose? Am I gonna have to cut a hole in that spring pocket so I can get a wrench on that nut? I have found videos that deal with the shackle end of the spring, but none that addressed this issue on the front end of the spring.
Also, where is the best place to buy replacement bolts and nuts?
Can’t help with the broken weld issue other than say search the forum and look on YouTube.
for the hardware itself, one of the members sells hardware kits. I got the full kit and have used a lot of it. Took the guess work out. Or you can go to a hardware store
Can’t help with the broken weld issue other than say search the forum and look on YouTube.
for the hardware itself, one of the members sells hardware kits. I got the full kit and have used a lot of it. Took the guess work out. Or you can go to a hardware store
The nuts breaking loose is the one thing we all want to avoid, but it happens. You are going to have to cut a window in the bracket, and fish the nut out. Here are two examples.
I had the same issue as you last year when I did mine on my 2000. Passenger side was a bear, and took me having the grind out the leaf springs when deal with the bolts without the leaf in the way. I cut the bottom of my spring perch as well to be able to get a wrench in there.
Do yourself a favor, and make sure you paint it with something to minimize rust once you cut it and leave bare metal showing.
I had the same issue as you last year when I did mine on my 2000. Passenger side was a bear, and took me having the grind out the leaf springs when deal with the bolts without the leaf in the way. I cut the bottom of my spring perch as well to be able to get a wrench in there.
Do yourself a favor, and make sure you paint it with something to minimize rust once you cut it and leave bare metal showing.
That's good to know, and it's not surprising that I'd have to cut the spring out first in order to have room to access that pocket. The rear was pretty much the same way. Will I have to cut it COMPLETELY out (bushing too) or can I just hack off the spring eye? The reason I ask is that I can't look at it tonight. It's over at a friends garage because I don't have room to work in mine.
Unfortunately, I probably won't have time to work on it again until the weekend. Right now I'm just trying to develop a plan and line up all of the tools and parts that I will need.
What I did was grind my leaf off as close as possible to the bushing, the bolt was pretty rusted into the bushing sleeve, but I was able to persuade it out with some pry bars, and penetrating oil. Just not having the weight of the spring pulling on the bushing and bolt made life much easier when I was removing the bolt.
It took me about 2 days (walking away when it became frustrating, then coming back later) to remove the right side...and then about 30 minutes to remove the left side. I didn't know if I should celebrate or cry at that point!
When I did mine I cut windows. Helped to apply PB more effectively and use heat, so saved the welded on bolt. If you do this you'll be able to stick a wrench on that.spinning bolt as well as being able to put a new bolt on easily.
Yeah, gotta paint 'em one of these days.
Some folks took a sawzall and cut through the bolt on either side of the leaf.
Some folks took a sawzall and cut through the bolt on either side of the leaf.
I tried this and I couldn't get it to work. I couldnt get enough pressure at the right angle with the monster sawzall I had at the time.
My problem was the bolt came loose from the nut but the sleeve was seized on the bolt so it wouldnt back out. A little different than your situation but this might help you out.
I ended up putting a 6 inch cut off wheel on my 4 inch grinder and the wheel just fit up in there enough to buzz through the bolt on both sides in 5 minutes. Then the spring dropped out of the way so I could work. If you do this wear thick gloves like welding gloves and an old coat if you have one. When you hit the rubber bushing with the grinding wheel(you will) the rubber turns into sticky burning hell that will get all over and burn everything it wants lol
Yeap, and I've not even gotten to that point yet. I assume that you're asking because that is gonna be a pain in the *** too???
No. Start soaking them in PB now. If the top bolts break (when the top bolts break) just punch the welded nuts out and drop new bolts through. There are a thousand posts on this so even if it seems like the worst catastrophe that could happen occurs, there's a ton of easy fixes.
Soak the bottom nuts/stud too. If you break that one it will require a little more work.
06-17-2019, 01:31 PM
leaf spring bolt nightmare
