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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Dave51
When I did mine I cut windows. Helped to apply PB more effectively and use heat, .
"Use heat", he says.
What he really means is, get a decent torch and blast that sucker until it's smoking hot and you melt the Red Loctite that is applied at the factory. Otherwise, you will be paying a visit to Pain City.
The design calls for heat to be applied in order to remove these bolts. It's on purpose. If you try to remove them without applying heat, you are probably going to break the welds.
Gotcha. After seeing how bad the spring bolts were, I did have the foresight to go ahead and soak them in PB. I'm having my buddy go out and spray them down every night, so hopefully they won't be as horrific as they could have been.
What he really means is, get a decent torch and blast that sucker until it's smoking hot and you melt the Red Loctite that is applied at the factory. Otherwise, you will be paying a visit to Pain City.
The design calls for heat to be applied in order to remove these bolts. It's on purpose. If you try to remove them without applying heat, you are probably going to break the welds.
Use heat.
Yeap, unfortunately it's too late for that. Even though I tried heat, all I had was a mapp gas torch and that wasn't doing the trick. I'm paying the price now. As usual, I have learned the hard way.
Rough country makes a nice bracket that can be installed to replace the broken studs for the upper shock mount. It is not very expensive either. I went that direction, as I felt it was just easier than trying to fish a bolt through. PB blaster can't hurt, but I soaked mine for a few months before doing my suspension and I still broke 2 of the 4, so I would be prepared for them to break.
If the upper shock bolts break and you knock the welded nuts out, there's enough room on the passenger side that you can reach them with your fingers. For the driver's side I made a helping hand out of a cheap ruler that worked perfectly:
Even if you mess up the bottom bolt it's not the end of the world. I used Crown Automotive J0912703 Shock Absorber Mounting Stud. Have to grind down the boss a little and drill a 9/16" hole. Or a 1/2' hole and file like crazy.
If you run into that problem again ...or for anyone else, try this: saw the bolts off with a sawzall and remove the spring. If you can, try to leave a little stud sticking out on the captured-nut side. Then, take a welder and weld a good 'bulb' onto the bolt sticking out. Needs to be a good weld. It shouldn't be difficult since you just cut it off and expoed fresh metal. Then take a new large nut and continue to weld the bolt onto the nut. Put a lot of heat on it and do a good job welding to the stud. The welding will heat the bolt end sticking into the frame. Let it cool for 10-15 seconds or long enough to gain some strength. Then unscrew the nut/stud and hopefully it'll back out. I've done this a few times and it's pretty much worked everytime ...allowed me to remove a bolt where I can't get at the nut. Worth a shot.
I used a 3" cut off wheel to get to the leaf nut cut the hole just big enough to get the nut out taped the nut to a wrench to put it back, (don't forget the anti-seize on the bolt when reinstalling) tack welded the nut to the frame and welded the hole back up, As for the upper shock bolts I knocked the old broken bolts out with a air chisel and a pointed bit if you don't have access to air a hammer and punch will work but air is your friend, I used a real thin piece of picture hanging wire fed it through the access hole to the left side(looking from the front of the vehicle) through the mounting hole wrapped it around the bolt threads starting about halfway up the threads and down to the end of the bolt and pulled it right through into the hole easy peasy . Using 1 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts makes it easier. Add a washer to the bolt before the wire and one before putting the nut on. And anti-seize them. Luck to ya!
Last edited by papablista; 06-19-2019 at 07:11 AM.
If you run into that problem again ...or for anyone else, try this: saw the bolts off with a sawzall and remove the spring. If you can, try to leave a little stud sticking out on the captured-nut side. Then, take a welder and weld a good 'bulb' onto the bolt sticking out. Needs to be a good weld. It shouldn't be difficult since you just cut it off and expoed fresh metal. Then take a new large nut and continue to weld the bolt onto the nut. Put a lot of heat on it and do a good job welding to the stud. The welding will heat the bolt end sticking into the frame. Let it cool for 10-15 seconds or long enough to gain some strength. Then unscrew the nut/stud and hopefully it'll back out. I've done this a few times and it's pretty much worked everytime ...allowed me to remove a bolt where I can't get at the nut. Worth a shot.
Not understanding what you're you're trying to do here. The problem is the welded bolt breaks off, so if you cut a window and torch the nut it will unscrew with socket and wrench. And if you do cut it just push the cut bolt and nut into the frame (or if you're OCD there's a couple holes you can fish it out of). Then put in a Tubur bolt and nut and loctite it.
... tack welded the nut to the frame and welded the hole back up...
I just used Loctite and left the window open.
If you do decide to drag out the welder disconnect the battery. Every now and then somebody fries the PCM. At that point it doesn't help to explain to the PCM "Wha, my ground was close to the work, I had rubber galoshes, it was a Tuesday...".
And don't weld back there if you have a P0455 code.
06-18-2019, 07:22 AM
