Leaf spring replacement with hitch setup
#31
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Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
2" is a good compromise between $$ and height. I will say that my 95 looks like it has about 2" of lift in the back with just the stock springs! (The leafs settle down a bit after some use, so if it doesn't even out in a couple months I'll be looking at new coils for the front.)
You can generally get away with stock shocks on a 2" lift. Most of the aftermarket shocks will list at 0-2".
The JK take-offs are a good option. I have only driven down the street and back since doing my springs (I'm doing my axle seals now), but the shocks are firm and seem good. I got the red (rubicon) ones so they're stiffer, but the black JK's are available as well and give a softer ride. They're a lot of work to pull bushings out/put bar pins in, but a low mile set of 4 is typically $100 on ebay.
You CANNOT drop the brackets - they are welded to the frame. You MUST remove the bolt at the front and rear and then the spring comes out. Heat the head of the bolt until nice and hot, but not cherry red and use an impact on the front and if you can get one on the rear (I could not - so it was a breaker bar)
Let me double down on my rust warning. My springs took half as long or less than dealing with the rust. When I pulled the carpet back in the rear I had extensive rot on both sides (the pass side was much worse.) So I had to replace large sections of the floor and seal it all up nice and tight before finishing the springs. You might want to pull the carpet back in the trunk before you start and see what/if repairs need to be done.
My CT XJ needed the floor above the front eyelet, the spot where the rear seatbelts mount and the trunk floor over the frame rails to the edges.
You can generally get away with stock shocks on a 2" lift. Most of the aftermarket shocks will list at 0-2".
The JK take-offs are a good option. I have only driven down the street and back since doing my springs (I'm doing my axle seals now), but the shocks are firm and seem good. I got the red (rubicon) ones so they're stiffer, but the black JK's are available as well and give a softer ride. They're a lot of work to pull bushings out/put bar pins in, but a low mile set of 4 is typically $100 on ebay.
You CANNOT drop the brackets - they are welded to the frame. You MUST remove the bolt at the front and rear and then the spring comes out. Heat the head of the bolt until nice and hot, but not cherry red and use an impact on the front and if you can get one on the rear (I could not - so it was a breaker bar)
Let me double down on my rust warning. My springs took half as long or less than dealing with the rust. When I pulled the carpet back in the rear I had extensive rot on both sides (the pass side was much worse.) So I had to replace large sections of the floor and seal it all up nice and tight before finishing the springs. You might want to pull the carpet back in the trunk before you start and see what/if repairs need to be done.
My CT XJ needed the floor above the front eyelet, the spot where the rear seatbelts mount and the trunk floor over the frame rails to the edges.
#33
CF Veteran
Why put spacers in the front? If memory serves, the front springs from a grand Cherokee gomive u 2 inches lift. Confirm anyone? Cheap from a boneyard.
#34
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Location: Bloomfield, CT
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
guys- good call on the advice I appreciate that. Maybe just new used zj springs will be a good up front option. I appreciate all the advice this is really helping me out..Ill wait a few more days to order up stuff so I can get my head straight. ZJ springs...jk shocks...
#35
Beach Bum
keep in mind, the ZJ is a heavier vehicle with a higher spring rate, especially the V-8 model. Will ride less than ideal on the lighter XJ.
#38
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
#39
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
You 'aint kidding! I just did my leaf springs and my rear end looks like I have ~2" of lift. As I understand it they'll settle down after a bit. It's so high I was worried I had over-torqued the hardware before lowering it for the final tightening, but it drives nice and I don't feel any binding or anything.
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