lift blocks
12-15-2009, 06:24 PM
#31
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Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok heres another one for you since everyone wants block. I know if this happened to me I would get out and go 
lol 
Aluminum or not your going to have problems... Its a 1/4 ton with weak leaf packs.
lol Aluminum or not your going to have problems... Its a 1/4 ton with weak leaf packs.
12-16-2009, 06:41 AM
#32
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Year: 91 with lots of 01' parts
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 01' 4.0L
i think you mean cast IRON and no one is trying to be unsafe, i was just asking for some part numbers, now i already made bastard packs and i want a little 1" block, my shackle bolts are extremely rusty and probably seized,they arent an option, michigan winters are hard on cherokees, u bolts and blocks are the quick easy route. any idea on axel shaft diameter for a 1991 cherokee laredo 4.0 ho auto 4x4 with part and full time 4x4.
correct me if im wrong...iron is metal.....
12-16-2009, 05:59 PM
#33
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Model: Cherokee
Looking at the condition of the springs they probably would have broken any way. I run 6" blocks on 1/2 ton to 1 ton trucks for years and never a failure. If your a maniac you can brake any thing. If you want to go crazy full leaf packs is the way to go. If you don't do much offroading and want a look , blocks should do the trick with maybe a shackle kit on a jeep.
12-16-2009, 07:12 PM
#34
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Aluminum is metal too. You know, anything can be dangerous and anything can be safe, depending on what you ask of it. I highly doubt blocks will cause any real problem for any vehicle that is driven on the street in a sane way, that is, no heavy acceleration. In any case, the reason the aluminum breaks is because it is a more brittle metal, and has a lower yield strength. I think after about 2 post he has the idea the blocks aren't the best or safest option. That said, if he wants lift blocks, and you're so worried about whether it's safe or not, why not give direct him to the best ones so they're less likely to fail, instead of frustrating him?
01-04-2010, 12:51 AM
#36
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Man, you might as well just measure them yourself. I highly doubt you'll get a straight answer anytime soon. (I never had mine apart, or I would tell you)
01-04-2010, 06:34 AM
#37
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Year: 1994
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01-04-2010, 07:13 PM
#42
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
my shackle bolts were in horrible condition when i needed two more inches of lift in the rear a couple days of soaking with pb blaster, a breaker bar, and a pipe and i was able to coax the bolts out and throw in some 30 dollar autozone shackles....i already have the bastard pack and my rear now sits the same height as my 6.5 long arm front 
01-04-2010, 08:13 PM
#43
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
lift blocks were originally for full size trucks that need that extra boost for towing. if your using block for offroad.. it's like they have a mind of thier own. a common thing that people think is that they will fly out, they won't fly out, but they can break. they won't cause your leafs to break because it's sitting on the same thing as before basicly. it's a gamble, kinda like playing russian rullete with your axel.
01-04-2010, 09:45 PM
#44
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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lift blocks were originally for full size trucks that need that extra boost for towing. if your using block for offroad.. it's like they have a mind of thier own. a common thing that people think is that they will fly out, they won't fly out, but they can break. they won't cause your leafs to break because it's sitting on the same thing as before basicly. it's a gamble, kinda like playing russian rullete with your axel.