lift gate removal
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: CT
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6CYL
lift gate removal
so ive struggled to find a write up on this, i want to have the option of removing my lift gate when it gets warm. i attached a mesh netting to make sure nothing slides out. i go on alot of trips and generally put bikes on the rack and canoe in the back. i just want to take it off for the summer.
basically, is this hard to remove and reinstall? what do i need to do for the electrical stuff that connect? and is it worth it?
basically, is this hard to remove and reinstall? what do i need to do for the electrical stuff that connect? and is it worth it?
#2
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Location: Leavenworth, KS
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Removing and re-attaching the liftgate are pretty simple procedures, the hardest part for me was routing the wiring harness. In order to un-attach the wiring harness and rear windshield wiper hose, you have to remove the piece of trim at the top of the opening, top of both pillars, and both the rearmost inside pieces that cover the fenders. The left side one requires you pull the 2 10mm bolts and the spare tire doohicky before it will come free, and both have a seatbelt going through the top front end. Make sure you keep all the screws. Work from the top down when removing the trim.
The wiring harness has two connections and a ground wire (mine is a '97, yours may vary) on the left side and the hose has a quick disconnect in the right side. Be careful with the little rubber boots at the top of the liftgate, and have a lot of patience when pulling the wiring harness through.
It took me less than 45 minutes to replace my liftgate, the only part I really needed help on was when reattaching it, my cousin helped hold it up in place while I replaced the top bolts. There are 4 bolts at the top (I left the hinges attached to the heep) and 2 bolts for each supporting arm on the liftgate itself.
Hope that helps.
The wiring harness has two connections and a ground wire (mine is a '97, yours may vary) on the left side and the hose has a quick disconnect in the right side. Be careful with the little rubber boots at the top of the liftgate, and have a lot of patience when pulling the wiring harness through.
It took me less than 45 minutes to replace my liftgate, the only part I really needed help on was when reattaching it, my cousin helped hold it up in place while I replaced the top bolts. There are 4 bolts at the top (I left the hinges attached to the heep) and 2 bolts for each supporting arm on the liftgate itself.
Hope that helps.
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Joliet, IL
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Year: 1998,2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As far as removing and reinstalling your hatch frequently, I give you props if you are actually going to do it, I am FAR too lazy but it would be nice to have the option.
And for you guys having issues with it rattling....well, you probably need new hinges. Easiest way to test to see if your hinges are shot it to open the hatch all the way and and push up even more on the hatch while looking at the hinges. If theyre bad you will be able to see them move and wiggle around.
And for you guys having issues with it rattling....well, you probably need new hinges. Easiest way to test to see if your hinges are shot it to open the hatch all the way and and push up even more on the hatch while looking at the hinges. If theyre bad you will be able to see them move and wiggle around.
#6
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Location: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
I'll have to check my hinges then. I'll probably leave them alone because I'm not too worried about them. They work fine, thats all that matters.
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#9
How the heck do you get the wires through those boots. there's absolutely no way the plugs from my new tailgate will fit through there. The white ones. Physically impossible.
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