wtx97xj

I am considering the removal and rebuild of the 4.0 in my 97 with 190k. Pretty sure it has a cracked or warped head but not 100%. I know for sure it has a head gasket leak.

What are my best resources for a job like this? I am by no means a pro but I have enough mechanical knowledge to get stuff done if I have guidance haha

I plan on buying a hoist/stand and I have a garage to do the work in. I have an impact to use but no pneumatic tools. Just trying to make sure all my bases are covered.

boxburn

Take a look at page 1686 onwards: 1997_XJ_FSM.pdf (iri5.net)

The things it doesn't tell you is how to hoist it out, hooking your lifting chains on good solid points is key along with balance. I can't remember exactly how I hooked mine but I did have 3 points bolted to the block when lifting which helped stabilise it. Just keep in mind these engine blocks are heavy and will seriously injure you if you're not careful. Also, when you undo the TC, just make sure it spins freely from the flex plate and isn't stuck to it via rust or anything. You don't want that coming with the engine then hitting the floor when it breaks free.

Unlike the FSM's suggestion, I didn't remove the hood, but having more experience may have helped me work around it.

While it's out do all the core plugs on the block (can't remember the US name for them). There's probably a few more tips but I can't remember at this point.

Sig220

If you just want to pull the head to check it, there is no need to pull the complete engine. If you also want to rebuild the engine, then its time to pull the complete engine. Do a search on Utube for 4.0 engine removal for 1997 Jeep Cherokee and you should have plenty of videos to choose from. If you don't like the way/manner one is videoed just look at a different one. I pulled my engine without removing the hood, discharging the AC or the condenser. Get a roll of blue or freezer tape and mark everything you disconnect and put bolts back where they come from or in a marked plastic bag for ease of locating/figuring out where they go. The biggest problem for me was the transmission cooler lines going to the radiator as they are old and brittle. On one I used the proper tool and the other one I used a zip tie to get it to release as the tool would not fit due to a bend in the line. There are 2 Torx E-12 bolts on top of the bell housing to the engine, Harbor Freight sells a cheap set of Torx sockets with a guarantee for them. I had trouble keeping the socket on one and finally just cut the head off of it. Good Luck to you!

sstout

I did my first engine swap this past winter, solo. Honestly this forum served as a comprehensive guide for me. I took a notebook and wrote down the procedure. Then just did alot, I mean alot of research on here about the questions I had. There are really good posts and write up on things such as pick points etc. It's all there, you just have to put in the time to find it. And take good notes haha. Goodluck!

awg

Do the two E12 Torx bolts at the top of the trans first as they have the least torque on them then, dont leave them to last

I have had good luck rattling them out with my Milwaukee Impact gun, or try repeated thermal cycling with butane torch

If you do not order new trans cooler lines, the plastic fittings can be replaced with standard 3/8" fuel injection "quick release" fittings

or replaced with M14? X 3/8" barb adaptors or AN fittings

some longer bolts to help mount engine to trans make the refit job easier

Jim Malcolm

I'm pretty sure that few people will agree with me, but for me personally, working alone, I find it easier to drop the driveshafts, exhaust and transfer case, unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate and then pull the motor and transmission as one. Rest the transmission on an old tire, unbolt the transmission and separate. Be forewarned that the transmission will drain out the tail cone/adapter when tilted down so have a pan ready at first, but then it can be plugged with a rag. While likely more work, I just find it "easier" to do it this way... YMMV

cruiser54

No thanks.

Sig220

I have heard that, but don't find just pulling the engine solo to be a problem. The thought of pulling the tranny with it does not sound easier or fun! JMHO

Jim Malcolm

It's the up and down, up and down, getting it all lined back up. Not a problem with a helper that can operate a lift AND follow directions, but solo, ... My previous experience has always been V motors in small cars; 300ZX, Mustang and a V8 Exploder. Pulled the motor and trans out of my 1st XJ and that's when the epiphany hit me. "Wow, that was easy !!!" Needed to replace the slave cylinder in my beater the other year and the wiper cowl sticks out over the engine, making it all but impossible to get to from the top. When all you have is a hammer (engine lift), everything looks like a nail (pull the engine). Both times now while standing there nicely operating the lift to get the two back together, I thought to myself "So much easier".

Jim Malcolm

What ever you do, DO NOT use the bolts to get the motor and trans to come together. It can be a royal PITA, particularly with a clutch if you don't have the tool to align the friction disc prior to tightening down the pressure plate. If it doesn't come together, don't force it...