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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I have taken my jeep to multiple mechanics and they dont seem to know a good fix for the ignition issue that I have
One slightly colder than usual morning a few weeks ago (spring/summer), my jeep had been running fine before I started to crank my 1996 jeep cherokee XJ to go to work one morning and it died out and didnt start to idle.(shown in video)
I have tried many things to fix this, including replacing the ignition coil, replacing spark plugs, checking fuel pressure, cleaning air intake and other parts, replacing some cables, battery is only about a month old,
There are 3 check engine light codes, (one has been on the vehicle since before I bought it in january:
- (been on for months) 0138: O2 Sensor High Voltage (I also replaced the O2 sensor and it didnt fix it)
- 0118: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Open Problem
-0505: Idle Control System Malfunction
After taking it to a shop, my aftermarket electric door lock controller stopped working also, (seems like because there is no power that would normally be used for the locks before the vehicle is cranked)( but the vehicle has battery power when the key is added and it tries to crank).
my main issue is the ignition and check engine light (especially the 0138 O2 sensor high voltage) though.
Note: this is taken way before the issue, it was not this cold when I cranked, this is from january.
I have taken my jeep to multiple mechanics and they dont seem to know a good fix for the ignition issue that I have
One slightly colder than usual morning a few weeks ago (spring/summer), my jeep had been running fine before I started to crank my 1996 jeep cherokee XJ to go to work one morning and it died out and didnt start to idle.(shown in video)
I have tried many things to fix this, including replacing the ignition coil, replacing spark plugs, checking fuel pressure, cleaning air intake and other parts, replacing some cables, battery is only about a month old,
There are 3 check engine light codes, (one has been on the vehicle since before I bought it in january:
- (been on for months) 0138: O2 Sensor High Voltage (I also replaced the O2 sensor and it didnt fix it)
- 0118: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Open Problem
-0505: Idle Control System Malfunction
After taking it to a shop, my aftermarket electric door lock controller stopped working also, (seems like because there is no power that would normally be used for the locks before the vehicle is cranked)( but the vehicle has battery power when the key is added and it tries to crank).
my main issue is the ignition and check engine light (especially the 0138 O2 sensor high voltage) though.
Note: this is taken way before the issue, it was not this cold when I cranked, this is from january.
Have you replaced the ignition switch? I have had my xj shut off going down the road simply because the ignition switch gave out. You may be able to jiggle the key just right when turning over and it'll run.
I do not think it is the ignition switch because of the codes and because I have gotten it to be able to run if I warm up the engine for about 5 minutes by hitting the gas while the engine is starting up, it will stay running if I warm up the engine before driving, I just am trying to get the engine to not need to be warmed up and to start normally every time.
The idle problem is likely the IAC needing cleaned or replaced. On the O2 sensor, inspect the wiring to it, that it hasn't melted against the exhaust header. Check the wiring to the temp sensor on the thermostat housing too, as that can cause idle problems too (thinking it's warmed up when it's really not). The temp sensor is easy to test with a meter.
I do not think it is the ignition switch because of the codes and because I have gotten it to be able to run if I warm up the engine for about 5 minutes by hitting the gas while the engine is starting up, it will stay running if I warm up the engine before driving, I just am trying to get the engine to not need to be warmed up and to start normally every time.
It's possible you have multiple things wrong. I would change the coolant temperature sensor also (not the sender unit for the guage the larger one should be on thermostat housing). A bad one will cause to run like crap. Ignition switch could still be for your accessories malfunctioning.
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Well this is a head scratcher for sure. There are two things that lead me to say it is your ECM. First is multiple codes out of the blue. Second is that it is temp related. The possibility you have multiple problems just out of the blue when it is cold suggests the sensors are working. Second, by the time you get it to the mechanic the ECM is warm and everything is working as it should. ECMs are hard to diagnose since you are relying on it to tell you what is wrong in the first place. I realize there is a code for the ECM malfunction, but it does not often come up when it malfunctions
I do not think it is the ignition switch because of the codes and because I have gotten it to be able to run if I warm up the engine for about 5 minutes by hitting the gas while the engine is starting up, it will stay running if I warm up the engine before driving, I just am trying to get the engine to not need to be warmed up and to start normally every time.
Still trying to find a fix, For some reason the ignition issue improved seemingly on its own and only doesnt start or starts with low RPM about 20 percent of the time instead of 100 percent.
The aftermarket door lock FOB I have (I have 2) do not work still for some reason after I took it to a shop and I have to enter through the trunk door (because it is the only door that has a key lock) every time I get in the vehicle.
also the check engine light for the O2 sensor high voltage is still on
I did find some new codes though,(for some reason a cheap $25 OBD scanner works but the expensive ones do not)
The codes were:
0505 - The PCM monitors voltages of the IAC circuits and if it detects an incorrect voltage on one or more of the IAC motor circuits it will set an OBD-II trouble code P0505.
0118 - indicates the Engine Control Module (ECM) has seen the ECT sensor output go more than 4.91 V or less than -40°C (-40°F).
0138 - indicates that there is a high voltage (steadily above . 9 volts) for more than 10 seconds indicating a lack of oxygen in the exhaust stream and an abundance of fuel at sensor 2 on the bank 1 of the engine.
Still trying to find a fix for these issues and most mechanics seem to not really improve it or just spray some cleaner in it.