Looking for some help before I give up on my 88'
05-11-2014, 08:13 AM
#76
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yeah he used these little snap blue things that "connected" the wires. They seemed iffy, but I didn't have these problem until like 8 months into driving it. Figured it worked. Maybe I'll upload a video of my jeep running and getting it to stall so you guys can see and hear it.
The PO was an idiot. A lot of things were sliced and added in extra wire to stuff. But it was a pretty shoty job.
The PO was an idiot. A lot of things were sliced and added in extra wire to stuff. But it was a pretty shoty job.
The C101 must be dealt with properly.
Those connectors react with the copper wire through some kind of oxidation process over time.
You would be in better shape WITH a dirty , rotten, gunked up, filthy C101 than you are right now.
05-11-2014, 05:09 PM
#77
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Well I should have asked if I should have gone to pick n pull and grabbed the C101 our the 88 over there. But I already soldered the site and I wrapped them with electrical tape. The ohms are still reading 477 when I check from the CPS to the negative terminal.
05-11-2014, 05:29 PM
#78
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Year: 90,84
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Howdy. You just caught me heading out the door. You might take a second look at Cruisers tips. Installing a different C-101 would be pointless, twice the connections to solder, and it's still there! You need to solder all 20 or so wires directly. Then it's done permanently, forever!
The resistance checks are between something that should be grounded, and battery negative. (like the body/engine/sensor ground circuit) One exception for you is you can check the resistance of your CPS by putting one probe on each of it's two unplugged wires. (while it's hot.) 200 plus/minus 75 is the spec. A way better CPS test is to probe those same two wires and note the AC Voltage while it's cranking. (you won't find that in a book. It's something Cruiser learned working at Jeep). It might run OK below .35, but not reliably for long. (that I learned myself).
You need all 22 of those wires soldered. Shrink tube is allot easier, neater, and more durable than tape.
I think Cruiser's #27 is next for you. #7, the CPS test is mainly because it's so easy and I'm curious. Gotta run!
"The ohms are still reading 477 when I check from the CPS to the negative terminal." We got on the wrong track there. That is not a test I'm familiar with. (a post 90 might have a ground wire to the CPS. Idk) Yours does not.
The resistance checks are between something that should be grounded, and battery negative. (like the body/engine/sensor ground circuit) One exception for you is you can check the resistance of your CPS by putting one probe on each of it's two unplugged wires. (while it's hot.) 200 plus/minus 75 is the spec. A way better CPS test is to probe those same two wires and note the AC Voltage while it's cranking. (you won't find that in a book. It's something Cruiser learned working at Jeep). It might run OK below .35, but not reliably for long. (that I learned myself).
You need all 22 of those wires soldered. Shrink tube is allot easier, neater, and more durable than tape.
I think Cruiser's #27 is next for you. #7, the CPS test is mainly because it's so easy and I'm curious. Gotta run!
"The ohms are still reading 477 when I check from the CPS to the negative terminal." We got on the wrong track there. That is not a test I'm familiar with. (a post 90 might have a ground wire to the CPS. Idk) Yours does not.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-11-2014 at 09:16 PM.
05-11-2014, 09:24 PM
#79
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Just to be clear, you want to eliminate that connector and just go with soldered connections. If your harness is really hatcheted or burnt crap, you might find a better one to solder in. Again Cruisers #27 in his link goes through the C-101 elimination.
05-11-2014, 10:21 PM
#80
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YES!! Eliminate using solder and shrink tubing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-14-2014, 05:00 AM
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Just a thought, do you guys think it might have something to do with MAT sensor placement? I read on moving it to the airbox give it a more correct reading. Also was thinking maybe I have a worn timing chain... Kinda just thinking now since nothing hasn't changed
05-14-2014, 07:15 AM
#82
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Have you addressed the C101 yet?
05-14-2014, 07:58 AM
#84
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05-14-2014, 11:49 AM
#86
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Yea, you can't trouble-shoot anything with questionable connections on most of your crucial wires. Silver lining, once you solder all those you'll get a Journeyman's badge in soldering!
05-14-2014, 05:16 PM
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The IAT (Incoming Air Temp) sensor seems to be a really minor player. Mine seems to run the same with or without it. I swapped in a 225 ohm resistor in mine so now my ECU always thinks the incoming air is warm. I won't get into why, but the experiment seems to be working.
Yea, you can't trouble-shoot anything with questionable connections on most of your crucial wires. Silver lining, once you solder all those you'll get a Journeyman's badge in soldering!
