Looking for some help before I give up on my 88'
05-20-2014, 02:12 PM
#121
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And I'm going to check on those bolts today
05-20-2014, 06:35 PM
#122
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
BD, I'll usually just take the cap and rotor into the kitchen and clean them like any other dirty dish. If the rotor looks OK and the electrodes on the cap are there and intact. The main problem I see is any stuff, condensation, or anything that will let the spark choose another path other than from the rotor tip to the electrode on the cap. The high temp plastic is not hard to get good and dry when you are done.
I guess we are all curious about your miss. If you intend to keep and use the Jeep, your investment in better injectors will pay for it's-self at some point. Might take a while if you gain one MPG, but while you are waiting it will run noticeably better!
05-20-2014, 07:18 PM
#123
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Like Cruiser says, that's it. They (of course) put one odd-ball bolt there on the bottom, maybe 17mm, then the other is 9/16-14mm IIRC.
BD, I'll usually just take the cap and rotor into the kitchen and clean them like any other dirty dish. If the rotor looks OK and the electrodes on the cap are there and intact. The main problem I see is any stuff, condensation, or anything that will let the spark choose another path other than from the rotor tip to the electrode on the cap. The high temp plastic is not hard to get good and dry when you are done.
I guess we are all curious about your miss. If you intend to keep and use the Jeep, your investment in better injectors will pay for it's-self at some point. Might take a while if you gain one MPG, but while you are waiting it will run noticeably better!
BD, I'll usually just take the cap and rotor into the kitchen and clean them like any other dirty dish. If the rotor looks OK and the electrodes on the cap are there and intact. The main problem I see is any stuff, condensation, or anything that will let the spark choose another path other than from the rotor tip to the electrode on the cap. The high temp plastic is not hard to get good and dry when you are done.
I guess we are all curious about your miss. If you intend to keep and use the Jeep, your investment in better injectors will pay for it's-self at some point. Might take a while if you gain one MPG, but while you are waiting it will run noticeably better!
05-20-2014, 07:28 PM
#124
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
The volvo injectors Seem to be doing great in mine ....DFlinstone turned us on to them...https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...r-swap-163105/
Last edited by freegdr; 05-20-2014 at 07:30 PM.
05-20-2014, 07:54 PM
#125
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
746s all the way. Programbo here on CF supplies them.
05-20-2014, 10:50 PM
#126
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Year: 90,84
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I can't help but be curious. Does whatever you are using let you see a posters signature? (That's the stuff below the "main post".) I'm curious exactly what is lost now with the improved devices. Of course for those new to the new, they don't even know they lost things!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-21-2014 at 02:04 PM.
05-22-2014, 04:19 PM
#129
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Year: 90,84
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There is plenty of room for improvement there. When I went to the 4 hole 703's I thought WOW. Then yet again from the 703's to 746's double wow.
Do we get to call this thread a success? It's about OK? Another U-tube?
Do we get to call this thread a success? It's about OK? Another U-tube?
05-22-2014, 05:17 PM
#130
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No go, still the same :'( , I don't want to sell it because I really want to find out the problem so other people can find this if the have the same trouble.
That's why I'm thinking maybe updating on the injectors
That's why I'm thinking maybe updating on the injectors
05-23-2014, 12:30 AM
#132
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05-23-2014, 07:08 AM
#133
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05-23-2014, 08:56 AM
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05-23-2014, 11:43 AM
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Could the pause be because the MAP is not registering/reporting the drop in manifold vacuum the the ECU correctly? I'm at a loss what else it could be. (You might check that ground at "A" as well). I might double check that no wires got mixed up during the C101 work, especially the MAP wires. I suppose fluid in the MAP tube could cause a delay as well.
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)
MAP sensor.
Located on driver side of firewall just behind & above engine. Located on firewall behind valve cover. To test, using a voltmeter with the ignition on/engine off, voltage at terminal B should be 4 - 5 volts. The voltage should drop to 1.5 - 2.1 volts with a HOT, neutral idle engine. Supply voltage can be checked at terminal C with the ignition on. Voltage there should be 5 volts + or - 0.5 volts (Terminal A is the ground wire).
> What does it do? Compares ambient barometric pressure during start-up (cranking) to engine load while engine is running. The ECU computes that information and adjusts the air-fuel mixture accordingly.
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)
MAP sensor.
Located on driver side of firewall just behind & above engine. Located on firewall behind valve cover. To test, using a voltmeter with the ignition on/engine off, voltage at terminal B should be 4 - 5 volts. The voltage should drop to 1.5 - 2.1 volts with a HOT, neutral idle engine. Supply voltage can be checked at terminal C with the ignition on. Voltage there should be 5 volts + or - 0.5 volts (Terminal A is the ground wire).
> What does it do? Compares ambient barometric pressure during start-up (cranking) to engine load while engine is running. The ECU computes that information and adjusts the air-fuel mixture accordingly.