Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Lots of problems I need help with!!!

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Old 06-25-2012 | 11:13 PM
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Gotta get paid first
Old 06-25-2012 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 89xjhomebrew
Gotta get paid first
Aw, come on. It's only 2 cables and you work at Napa. LOL.
Old 06-26-2012 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Get to work and finish it.
Crack that whip!
Old 06-26-2012 | 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 89xjhomebrew
or grinding in 2h with the wheels on the ground
The vac switch at the shifter applys vacuum to engage the collar onto the splines in the vac disco. When it has actually moved over, that opens a port to put vacuum to turn on the 4WD light. That's why there are three. I believe running in 2 WD, you should have vacuum to one side to keep it from "growling"

Besides cleaning up the wiring, so you can actually test things to see what's going on without chasing your tail all day, you might want to make sure that isn't grinding, 1/2 *** trying to engage!

Here's some pics of it, (but I like having mine working) https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fr...ss-91-a-38629/




Also, if you click on my signature, there is some stuff Cruiser wrote.
Old 06-27-2012 | 09:12 PM
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my rough idle came back today and i looked and alot of my vacuum lines are capped is that healthy?
Old 06-27-2012 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 89xjhomebrew
my rough idle came back today and i looked and alot of my vacuum lines are capped is that healthy?
No not at all, i have an 89 renix also, none of mine are capped. Do you have the vacuum diagram on the firewall still? If not I can try to find a diagram thats decent for you. I'd pick up a roll of soft vacuum line and replace them all if i were you, alot of my old hard plastic ones were cracking and brittle, I had to do it eventually anyways just to pass smog inspection
Old 06-27-2012 | 09:47 PM
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X2. there is probably something on that here> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/he...ix-links-1397/
Old 06-27-2012 | 10:21 PM
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alright all the lines in that diagram are good except the crankcase vent tube it has a breather on the air box and right off the valve cover the ones that are capped are i believe from the vac ball on the bumper
Old 06-27-2012 | 10:28 PM
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89 here as well. My tranny shifted weird too. Then my tps got wet and died. Installed a new tps and calibrated per instructions here. It's like I got a new transmission for $40!

Not sure if it was mentioned already. Add a ground strap from neg battery cable to header panel. Add one from engine block to header panel and lastly, add one from intake bolt to firewall bolt. Scrape paint off and add dielectric grease to these connections and every electrical connector under hood.
Old 06-27-2012 | 10:30 PM
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o and shouldnt my idle change if i unplug my iac valve unless its bad
Old 06-28-2012 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 89xjhomebrew
o and shouldnt my idle change if i unplug my iac valve unless its bad
Not a good test.
Old 06-28-2012 | 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 89xjhomebrew
o and shouldnt my idle change if i unplug my iac valve unless its bad
Nope. It's a stepper motor and if it's in the right position to idle, it'll stay there when you unplug it.
Old 06-28-2012 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wildcat
89 here as well. My tranny shifted weird too. Then my tps got wet and died. Installed a new tps and calibrated per instructions here. It's like I got a new transmission for $40!

Not sure if it was mentioned already. Add a ground strap from neg battery cable to header panel. Add one from engine block to header panel and lastly, add one from intake bolt to firewall bolt. Scrape paint off and add dielectric grease to these connections and every electrical connector under hood.
The extra cables are mentioned in my ground refreshing write-up, with part numbers, and it is INDEED a great idea to add them.
Old 06-29-2012 | 06:45 PM
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Did everything today cruiser still gotta do a test drive next is coolant flush trans filter change air filter and cap rotor and wires
Old 06-29-2012 | 06:59 PM
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Good. Get that tune-up stuff done. Get a cap and rotor with brass contacts and use good quality wires like the ones from Napa. I use NGK Copper plugs but other guys swear by Champion Coppers. Either will be fine. Just don't try some "miracle" plugs for sure. I would also change the fuel filter as then yo will know it has been done.

Have you straightened out the vacuum hose mess? Do you still need a diageam?

Sometime when your engine is cold, snug up your intake manifold bolts. They're known to work loose.



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