Something screwy there. The spark should rather jump a .035 gap at the plug than go causing fits. If you follow...that 25K volts, assuming it arrives to the plug, should choose that path. If it's jumping more than that somewhere, then it's getting too much resistance getting to that gap. I might start swapping things if it were me, probably. "open", plugs do happen. I never use "radio suppression" plugs, (might have an R), on things I really need to rely on. (like my water pump).

 

Arcing at the plug or the dizzy?

 

At the plug but I think I got it I think the boot was slid up the wire just a bit but still have a rough idle not near as bad though I think I might do the 703 injectors also

 

O and when I turn right my tires squeel or that's what it sounds like at least

 

Get the vacuum harnesses replaced. Napa has them and I have a diagram.

Check to see if your intake manifold bolts are loose.

 

What is a vacuum harness?

 

There are two of them and they comprise what is in the diagram I posted.

 

Also make darn sure that little tube from inside the TB, back to the MAP up there on the firewall is flawless! It's extra important.

 

That would be true if the air/fuel in the cylinder were not compressed when the plug is supposed to fire. The dielectric value changes with pressure.

 

A little update all filters changed went ahead and changed both diffs fluids and gasket obviously I think my ujoints are bad because it only idles rough in drive and it would also explain why it jerks at low rpms but im gonna sound like a nub here I dont know how to replace them on the rear shaft. Any suggestions?

 

o ya and was it smart to put royal purple ice in the coolant and use royal purple diff fluid

 

Not sure if I understand this. Setting still in D there would be no reason for roughness from the u-joints. You could still have a driveability problem with the engine or possibly bad engine and trans mounts.

 

Nothing wrong with that.

 

How do I check the mounts?

 

Yea I know... Counter-intuitive that. I might think that the compressed mixture would offer less resistance. (more of something to offer a path). You are indeed correct, it can be seen on a scope.
(I was not however familiar with the term "dielectric value") Thanks! Added, I was able to find "dielectric constant" (a little tecky for me!)> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric_constant

Was keeping it simple.

OP, one way to check mounts is with a pry bar. For engine mounts if you power-brake it and see the engine move much, that's a sign as well.