Lowering an XJ ?
#31
Old fart with a wrench
Do some research and check out Team Petty Cash and their Cherokee that ran the Le Mons 24 hour race, and finished! They had to install a dry sump oiling system because the 4.0 runs out of oil on hard turns!
#33
Old fart with a wrench
Team Petty Cash tried that and it wasn't effective for them. The best part about a dry sump system is you can use a larger oil tank and the oil runs cooler as well.
Last edited by dave1123; 01-07-2020 at 03:49 PM.
#34
Newbie
Not new to trucks or drifting but this is my first jeep!
fixing all the half assed stuff as I go, when I come to the front you can only go so low because your 4link will come in contact with the brackets for your motor mounts even with them shaved. As you know you’ll eventually come in contact with the oil pan too
The rear goes pretty low without any work the previous owner did some pretty ghetto brackets but they did air shocks
its just the 2.5 but I plan to slide it, welded the diff a few days ago and it slides pretty good to be honest
ill post more as I go if you guys are interested
fixing all the half assed stuff as I go, when I come to the front you can only go so low because your 4link will come in contact with the brackets for your motor mounts even with them shaved. As you know you’ll eventually come in contact with the oil pan too
The rear goes pretty low without any work the previous owner did some pretty ghetto brackets but they did air shocks
its just the 2.5 but I plan to slide it, welded the diff a few days ago and it slides pretty good to be honest
ill post more as I go if you guys are interested
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#38
I’m gonna do it!!!
Ok, I’ve read through this entire thread, and I’m actually excited! I picked up a farm truck 1999 XJ for $400. No title, 2WD, Automatic... but now I’m thinking it’ll make a great daily driver if I can retitle it and make sure it is mechanically sound. (And fix the death wobble!)
but just for fun, since it needs new wheels already AND it is 2wd auto, I’m thinking about a sleeker “rat rod” look with slightly lowered suspension, and just clear coat over the rust and patina, larger rims off a 2017 wrangler with spacers, and fix some dents and replace some, not all, missing parts and pieces on the bumpers. It will still be a junker but I want it to be a good gas mileage cruiser for when I don’t have to pull my trailer with my f150 and to go kayaking and stuff...
I like a lot of the advice of what I’ve seen on here so far. Any other ideas on how, or what to do to make it happen?
but just for fun, since it needs new wheels already AND it is 2wd auto, I’m thinking about a sleeker “rat rod” look with slightly lowered suspension, and just clear coat over the rust and patina, larger rims off a 2017 wrangler with spacers, and fix some dents and replace some, not all, missing parts and pieces on the bumpers. It will still be a junker but I want it to be a good gas mileage cruiser for when I don’t have to pull my trailer with my f150 and to go kayaking and stuff...
I like a lot of the advice of what I’ve seen on here so far. Any other ideas on how, or what to do to make it happen?
#40
yup
the bolt pattern is different, but I found a kit that is both an offset spacer AND changes the bolt pattern, so i could fit those rims on these hubs.
#41
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Hangover, PA
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467 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
You mean wheel adapters. They bolt on your vehicle and have studs in a different bolt pattern. You have to make sure the hub bore is the right size to fit the vehicle hub and the wheel hub. Also pay attention to thickness.
They will make the wheels fit the hubs but the wheels and tires may not fit the body lol
They will make the wheels fit the hubs but the wheels and tires may not fit the body lol
#42
This is what mine looks like as it sits now. I had, still have, big plans for it as a project, but life got in the way, it's my DD now, and so things have gone off course for a while.
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