So I took my 4.0L I6 Auto 2000 XJ (165K miles) to the mechanic to get an alignment. They said they will make sure the suspension is in good condition before doing an alignment. I said cool.

Then they got back to me and told me a bunch of stuff that was wrong with my car. Some of which I knew, some of which I didn't. The recommended front brakes, but I want to learn how to change my own brakes (and save money). The other 2 main services they recommended were:

1. R&R Pinion Seal for Front Axle + R&R both inner axle shaft seals. $267 Parts + $612 Labor
2. R&R Steering Gear Box. $291 Parts + $385 Labor

So my first question is are these prices somewhat reasonable?

My second question(s): On the inspection sheet they gave me, it said this about the front diff 'Fluid is black, axle grinding, cover leaking, output seal leaking'.

What is the 'output seal'? Is that the pinion seal?

What exactly does 'axle grinding' mean? Maybe a dumb question, but aren't there several parts of an axle that can grind?

I know the noise he is talking about, but I have been trying to figure out where it is coming from since I bought the car. It only happens when I am accelerating or sometimes when I am turning, but it doesn't happen if I am coasting in a straight line. It sounds like it is coming from right beneath the shifter. I only hear it up to about 15 mph then it seems to go away (either that or the engine just drowns it out. The noise also is not constant, it will usually start for a few seconds, then stop for a few, the start for few, and so on.

I know you can get a grinding noise if you are low on diff fluid, but when I checked mine, the fluid could not have been more an half in below the fill hole. Is that enough to make a grinding noise?

So here is my predicament since I am not very mechanical. I know the the pinion seal and the axle shaft seals needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't think replacing these seals would make a grinding noise go away. I don't want to pay $900+ to have the mechanic replace the seals if this grinding noise problem is just going to destroy other components of my car. The grinding noise is not super loud. Sometimes if I have my windows down, I can't even hear the noise. But I can't imagine any grinding, loud or quite, is very good from underneath a car.

Sorry for the million questions. Just hoping I don't gotta scrap this thing.

 

If something in the diff is grinding seals aren't going to fix it and they're stupid for suggesting new seals. Sounds like you need to go to someone else.

 

​​​​​​Well they never explicitly said it would fix the grinding. I am sure it is mainly to fix any leaks. Maybe they think the leak is causing the grinding? How low on fluid would my diff have to be to start making a noise?

 

If the fluid gets low enough to cause damage that creates grinding, refilling it won't fix the damage done. Keeping it full will slow the increased damage, but the damage is done and will progress. New seals would be mostly a waste of money. If something in the diff. is grinding it needs to be repaired and installing new seals during a repair/rebuild is normal.

The grinding could also be wheel bearings, U-joints, or a bunch of other stuff. Regardless, if they suggested seals without telling you explicitly that it will not help with the grinding you need to go somewhere else. I would never recommend someone spend money on re-sealing an axle that's grinding, that's plain dumb. I'm a mechanic, and maybe too honest. If you happen to live near 91745 PM me and I'll check it out for free. I'm not a differential guy, I don't feel qualified to do gear work for anyone but myself, but I can at least set you straight on what needs to be done so you don't get jacked by a shop.

 

Which jeep on flat, even ground, you should be able to remove the plug, dip your finger in and down, and get different fluid on your finger. Don't know how low it would take to grind your diff... Prices seem pretty steep on both. Also, it's VERY uncommon for a stock jeep to have steering box issues. If your axle is indeed the source of grinding, you may want to go to a pick-n-pull and just get a new front axle. Cheaper that way and a good learning experience to replace it.

Something I have always done, for virtually anything that I am paying someone to do (car repairs, computer repairs, medical procedures, like I said virtually everything) is go and get 2nd or even third opinions. Also if you mention pricing from each to the other, they will competitively try to earn your money and trust... By explaining further and/or lowering price.

 

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be right to the filler plug, not below it.

Every steering box wears out, more so if it's been wheeled/abused. Also, people often like to mess with the adjustments on them and screw them up; been there, seen that.

Junk yards don't sell new axles, he'll be trading his used one for another used one that may or may not be in good condition. He's not a mechanically knowledgeable guy so he'd likely be paying someone to swap the axle, more money potentially wasted. Or he might try to do it himself and wind up hurt, it's silly to suggest a person do something like this when they've stated that they're not mechanically inclined and probably don't have the tools to do it.

Second opinion, absolutely.

 

I personally haven't seen a Jeep steering box need rebuilt, but I am far removed from old leather in this regard. And yeah, to the second point, I concede you are right. Going axle swap could be beyond his skills, it was just a suggestion.

 

Most steering boxes last a really long time, but I've had to repair/replace a few in my years.

 

Good discussion re: fluid levels and sound sources. I'd like to address your first question. $267 for the pinion seal and inner axle seals is nuts. Even OEM with extra dealer markup I would guess $50 tops for those three seals. I want to say the pinion seal from my local jeep dealer was $14 when I did it last winter.

Definitely get a second opinion.

 

I totally glossed over the prices quoted, HOLY COW! Take it to someone else and never return to that shop. And burn it down as you're leaving to protect the next guy.

It might be the longest road call of my life, but for those prices I'll come do the work in your driveway regardless how far you live.

 

I just moved to a suburb of Chicago and don't know anyone in the area to ask for a mechanic recommendation. I went to this mechanic because they had the best online reviews in my area lol so.... Anyone else have any better criteria for finding a decent mechanic.


​​​​​​When I bought the car I took it to a different mechanic in my area to have it inspected, and they said the only thing they noticed was the front brakes and all the shocks should be replaced. I later found out there was much more wrong with it. I would say I am 0 and 2 for picking mechanics.

 

If the axle leaks are just seepage, moist but not dripping, you can blow them off and just make sure the oil is full. If it's truly black have it changed. This is easy to check yourself, just park it fairly level, unscrew the plug, and see how the oil is. Any oil change place can change it for you, not a bad idea to have both done and maybe the t-case oil too.

The noise you hear can be a lot of stuff so that'll take someone knowledgeable to check it out.

As for finding a mechanic, try Nextdoor. It's a free neighborhood app that lets you meet your new neighbors and keep in touch about stuff, post there and see.

 

​​​​​​The extent of my mechanical ability is that I have successfully followed YouTube/forums for replacing some window regulators, the valve cover gasket and the oil filter adapter O rings for my jeep. I worked at an oil change shop for 2 years back when I was in college, but I hardly learned anything there (we used a hose for 'emptying' diffs, instead of taking the covers off) so I don't really count that. Do you think flushing my diff myself would be too difficult ?... I am still just as broke as I was in college lol, so I'm trying to save money by fixing some things myself where I can.

 

Man there is an app for everything these days. Not sure how well this would work though. More then likely none of my neighbor's use it haha

 

While the labor is pricey for the pinion seal and axle seals, it's a PITA to change the inner seals, and I guess most mechanics would charge around that price.

Look for a 4 x 4 shop in your area. They should do them more often, so they probably have better prices cause they get it done faster. Also, differential work is not something you want to let any mechanic do as it is very easy to mess it up.