jaythenewguytojeepn

I have a Mechanic friend ...and he told me to get one...I am going to check it in the morning...so the crank don't look to bad?

DFlintstone

250K is allot. Maybe see what others have to say, but right off I'm thinking if you where to go as far as a crank, you might as well do a rebuild. Then again, if the pump failed, and you shut it right down....I might check that journal for out of round. Maybe get away with new inserts for a while.

You might check this. You would want to get that pretty clean, 400 emery paper I'd guess for a start. There is a way, going at say 4:30 and 7:30 to get an idea if you are out of round. You can even get a feel with a vernier caliper, or actually measure it with a micrometer. But this stuff use to be 99 cents!

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

jaythenewguytojeepn

Yes it was still full if oil...no leaking anywhere ...oil not milky ...oil not watery ether ...just the loud knocking and no oil presure....right after they fixed my egr valve ...but I passed smog

jaythenewguytojeepn

Got the emery also...I will do that be for I do the plastic gage

jaythenewguytojeepn

Complete rebuild ...what does that contests of

DFlintstone

Lol. Sorry, that's a little funny. You passed smog, but not go! Anyway that's a good sign. I can't say on the bearing. Lets see what some others have to say. It was sudden. Fine one minute, banging the next. Full of decent oil. No oil pressure. Just passed smog. You have the pan off. It runs so the dizy is going around. Guess I'd be curious, is the oil pump working,(going around also) is the journal out of round, and lastly, how is the compression. An 88 with 250K "doesn't owe you anything" is a line I hear! If you DID dress it up and put $20 worth of bearings in it, still, a pump, gaskets, oil, coolant...maybe for nothing.
I'd see if it's round.

Cherockee

It's my opinion that when something such as a rod knocks it's because there is a gap between the rod and crank. This gap would have been caused by excessive wear, possibly on both the crank and rod. Could be that the oil passage for this rod is clogged, restricting oil flow and causing the failure. Were are the pics of the bearing?

Are you looking to repair this correctly, or just get you by for a couple more hundred miles?

Rebuilds are very expensive. You can bet with that amount of mileage you'll need at least some machine work, new pistons, bearings, and the list goes on and on. But if you plan on keeping the Jeep for another 5 years or so, might be worth it.

jaythenewguytojeepn

Here are some pics of the bearing...I would like to keep it...I found a rebuilt engine in the recycler installed out the door + warranty for 1500$... I guess just to buy me time to save up for the rebuilt....didn't check the oil pump just figured that's what went out and was going ti buy a new one its only 80$...how do I check if its round what us the name of the tool...

jaythenewguytojeepn

HaHa...funny guy..passed smog but not go. Lol.....

DFlintstone

....Oh...$80 was more than I thought you might gamble on that, or maybe the max. A JY pump, a $20 set of rod inserts..at 250K it's not going far anyway! (I'm doing OK at 264, but ...). There is a procedure somewhere for inspecting your oil pump. If it completely failed it might be obvious when you take a look. One way to check for out of round is to put plastigauge at different spots 90* apart. As far as a rebuild, is there a JC or something in your area that might offer a class? Or a friend or neighbor who has been there and could lend a hand. Not that it's that tough, just there are allot of little things. Things you don't want wrong. (a guy last week ended up with the wrong crank/thrust bearing "relationship"). His cr

Got an emergency call...$1500 sounds good!

jaythenewguytojeepn

Hope everything Kool...I figure if the oil pump is new I can bring it with to a new motor....and if it is still round....

DFlintstone

All's cool. Friend of a friend's stupid side post battery terminal loose.

OK call it "in the name of science" for now. * Take apart the oil pump and look at it. *Clean up that journal with 400 emery. You can fold it in a strip, loop it around and work it back and forth. Don't get carried away! Don't work on clean areas. Use light oil and wipe often. I'd use trany fluid because I have some. Pick up a package of Plasriguage .001 to .007. Should be cheap. You will need at least one new pair of the correct size rod bearing inserts. If your crank has been ground, (doubtful I suppose), stamped on the back will be the "oversize", Like .010 or .020 under. Or it might have STD for standard. I would go straight to my Napa, bearing in hand and see what they say first. Wiped real clean, (no oil or anything), stick'm in like the others where. (if you pull your plugs, you can rotate the engine more easily without having the crank pulley bolt loosen). Position 1/2 inch pieces across, at 4:30 and 7:30 in the lower half. I guess a dab of vasolene or something will help hold them in place. Torque the rod cap. Then, being careful not to rotate it, take it apart. Compare the width it squished out to with the gauge on the package. Off the top of my head, I think new should be right around .001. .0025>.0030 is maybe the max "acceptable". As far a out of round, .0015 (difference in readings),will ruin your day. Idk. what might be considered "acceptable"

OK forum, Your turn! Did I get enough zeros in the right places? Got some better numbers? Any thoughts on trying to position the Plastigauge at a certain spot on the stroke/crank?

OK call it "in the name of science" for now.

jaythenewguytojeepn

Ok...I checked everything its still round...replaced all the bearings cleaned the whole bottom out...replaced the oil pump. ..took off the valve cover and a WHOLE bunch of carbon build up....cleaned all that out and noticed the rod for number 6 was super loose so I tightened them down to spec still loose ...took the rod out and rolled it and its bent....so iam going to replace them..

jaythenewguytojeepn

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DFlintstone

Hey there Jay. It looks like if that's the correct new bearing, that's it, it's shot.
Another test of rod clearance is to just grab it and reef up and down on it. (easy to do with all of them)

Am I seeing that right? It didn't even squish it? Did it get turned a tad?