darknezz

you can rebuild the engine yourself for around 500, with shop machining. or pick up a 300 engine, i just put one in, its pretty easy.

look at my build thread and i just did an engine swap and have a link to my stroker build thoughts, full performance rebuild stroker engine for 1200.

Cherockee

Complete BS. If you can 'rebuild' engines this cheap you're not doing it right.

Trev1006

The last "quality" stock 4.0 rebuild I did cost me over a grand. And I did all the work myself. Not sure how and where you got a 4.6 for 1200? What parts did you use? Crappy cam and crank from China probably. But there are so so many engines laying around. Unless you want something special out if the engine, I would just swap in a low mile one for 300-400 like was said before.

Cherockee

I just dropped back and took a look at the previous page and saw the pictures. That engine's days are numbered.

I'd agree with DFlintstone, looks like the bearing moved, that .003 gap or more.

As for the bent push rod, I'd have to wonder....how? I have a bunch of those lying around, but really with all that oil sludge and the looks of the plastigauge, if your not rebuilding run to the JY and get another push rod.

413maxwedge

If it went bad it will keep on going bad ,till you have the crank turned!Just check the price of a rebuild vs a long block if you decide you want to have your 4.0 rebuilt.

jaythenewguytojeepn

Ok...I used the plastigage..just bigger then. 002 it was in the. 0015 range...spec is. 001 - .003......did the plastigage at @ 4:30-7:30..... both with very close specs...I figured that the oil pump went out and caused all the problems ....

jaythenewguytojeepn

I found a rebuild for 1250$ installed....

DFlintstone

When you apply torque to the rod cap nut, you need to push straight forward, or rearward. Going a little to the side can make it rotate and smear the reading. From the little left visible in the pic's it looks like that's what happened. Also I bet if you take it by hand you can feel that much clearance. It's looks done.

Does it look like it spun the bearing insert? Could you read the back of it? Also there was an important reason that I asked if you would look into the pump. If the oil pressure dropped at once and it started knocking there was a chance something there just broke or stripped. If it looks OK, that is yet another sign that that engine is done.

If you bought a set of bearings, you might opt to save them. Twice I've stuck new rod inserts in a JY engine, just because it's so easy.

DFlintstone

Oh! I was typing ^. Sounds good? Warranty?

jaythenewguytojeepn

6yr or 60,000 miles ....just got the rods to put in then prime the oil pump ....put the cover back on and fire it up....fingers crossedold oil pump gears were jacked up....I really think that the oil pump was messing up and messed up the bearings....no It did roll I did it at 2 different spots and the reads were the same...

jaythenewguytojeepn

No the bearing was not spun....just massed up

darknezz

ok....

the better of the ebay kits, $400, comes with everything to rebuild. yea theyre prolly still cheap parts but im sure it would last quite along time as long as its built right.
then depending on price of machine shops or who you know $0-300 for the head surfacing and crank work


then for a really good engine I put together a complete build from summit racing ~$950 shipped. all performance stuff. then again $0-500 for the machining porting over boring.

thoughts can be seen here
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/pl...at-cam-123572/

so dont tell me it cant be done for around those prices, if you know good machine shops and can build/install it yourself.

mind you I got the block and head for free and the 258 crank for 40 bucks

DFlintstone

We should all bow our heads and say a prayer for Jay's motor! Keep in mind that somebody might end up checking your cores for your refund. (if you needed to deposit). For the rebuilt,(ing). Don't go throw a rod!

Pump was shot Eh? That being the case it should be better than when you shut it down.

And X2^. If it does run you might want one of those "straight kind" of push-rods.

Cherockee

I stand by my word and back it up with my extensive knowledge of what my rebuild cost me. Good machine shops will not be cheap as you suggest. Cost will differ from one part of the country to another, but it's hard to believe you can get all the necessary machine work done for less than $500.

I would ask that you not give people the impression that good rebuilt motors can be had for less than $1000. It's more like $2000, and then there is still all the little stuff like fluids, plugs/wires and cap/rotor, t-stat, sensors, filters, belt, HB, water pump, and the list goes on....

I see that you have not completed your rebuild yet. Let's see the receipts when you're done.

jaythenewguytojeepn

It worked ...and it runs better now then when I first got it...new bearings new oil pump new rods...sweet.....man I bought a NAPA gold filter and max life oil and a bottle of locus oil and the crappy NAPA filter popped...first and last time I shop @ NAPA...boo NAPA....so I put in sine Mobil oil I had and a autozone filter ...trusty autozone.....THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP D.F.....IT RUNS BETTER THEN EVER ......